my Husky 353 likes to idle fast Not at first start. I have the idle tuned to a nice dieseling pace while I put on my chaps. But after it gets good and hot, the idle walks up and the chain spins pretty fast between cutting rounds. I either hit the brake to stop it or hold it to the log to stop it, before the next cut. What's going on?
I have a new set of seals in the drawer waiting for me to make the time to put them. I bought them a couple months ago as a near final resort to restore this saw to its previous power. I changed the piston and cylinder this summer. The saw does not like a high torque situation, especially when the bar is turned horizontal. I guess the spinning chain when hot is another symptom. (I also changed the clutch this summer)
Do you have a can of carb and choke cleaner? If so spray some into the clutch and flywheel sides and see if it effects the way it's running.
I have a new set of seals in the drawer waiting for me to make the time to put them. I bought them a couple months ago as a near final resort to restore this saw to its previous power. I changed the piston and cylinder this summer. The saw does not like a high torque situation, especially when the bar is turned horizontal. I guess the spinning chain when hot is another symptom. (I also changed the clutch If it is the seals, what change should I expect to notice
It should kill the saw. A pressure/vac test would tell the story better, but this has worked for me to get an idea where to start. The examples below are base gasket issues, which I had. I would think crank seals would be similar. This one at 6:45
Nope, changed that to a metal clamp. Good thought though. I had picked up a 350 on the side of the road in a "Free" pile earlier this year and was able to start it, but died at full throttle. Consulted the gang here and that was mentioned. So for 7 bucks and a little wrenching, I got a pizza of a saw. Tried it also on the 353, to no avail.
It could be the cranks seals, they are a known problem on those saws. I think the were the cylinder bolts to the case it another common air leak on these. How much too fast is idling? Does it run fine otherwise, not lean up top, or bog when revved? It could just need a carb adjustment.
Also check that small curved hose that connects the intake boot to the bracket. It is the impulse line "bridge" between the two. You mentioned changing the clamp and bracket so the hose might be suspect. I've experienced problems with these if not installed just right. My guess though, would be the crank seal on the clutch side.
Update on trouble shooting Started it up, sprayed with brake cleaner at the cylinder bolts, at the flywheel side and under the clutch cover. No effect. Good piece of info. While running, I adjusted the idle ccw all the way. I didn't count, but it was about 1 to 2 turns. No noticeable effect. What I did notice was that when I put the screw driver into the screw and gave a small push, the idle dropped the more I pushed. So grabbed the carb by the air filter and moved it around. A twist to the right slowed the idle. Back to the left the idle came back up. Back and forth had similar results. Does that seem right?
So shaking the carb changed the idle? Is it tight? Or bad intake boot? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Specifically, thumb on top of the air filter; Pull air filter back toward the handle, I can raise the idle to get the chain spinning. Samething if I push the air filter left, towards the fly wheel. Conversely; Push the filter forward I can lower the idle to a stall. Samething if I move it to the right. I don't see any movement in the throttle.
A little late to the party... sounds like maybe a pin hole in the boot? Pull back and it's opening, leaking air. Push in and it seals up, and now that you've tuned idle too low it stalls. Or the seal from carb to intake. A partially blocked fuel line. Just trying to envision what that movement could affect.
I little more trouble shooting. I sprayed brake cleaner this morning and decided I try carb cleaner, per the instructions above. Still no stall at the seals, but when I sprayed the boot area I got a good boost. I let it idle back down and spray it again and I got a rev boost. Last thing I did was turn the saw horizontal. With the clutch side down, it idled down real low. Before it stalled, I turned it vertical again and it came back to normal idle. Turn the saw flywheel side down, and not much change, if any.
Got a leak somewhere. Just need to pinpoint where the spray is changing rpm’s. Boot, impulse line and carb to boot area all suspects. Excellent trouble shooting so far.
I don't think it the carb just because it didn't spray it directly. A suppose it could've gotten a whiff. I think I've convinced myself into shopping for a boot/impulse line and maybe a carb.
I mean where the carb mates to the boot. That seal could be at fault. Did you try snugging up those screws?
