In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fahrenheit Technologies Endurance 50F Information

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by BAN83, Jan 2, 2016.

?

Who out there has a 50F or would like to get one?

  1. Yes

    75.9%
  2. No

    6.9%
  3. I Want One

    17.2%
  1. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    just for fun
     
  2. Maximus

    Maximus

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    ok...I'll give that a go...
     
  3. Maximus

    Maximus

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    I hope this works...
     
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  4. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I've been using 1/8" gasket on the back side of the pot and the top rails of the receptacle for 4 or 5 years. It's a good way to lessen the leaks (burn pot bypass). Also, closing holes is a good idea in the original pot. And I plugged the hole that does not feed the bottom of the pot. What he did by modifying the pot so it's all open is an even better way.

    But all his mods are spot on! I love the 1/4 stainless pot. Great posts and pics Maximus
     
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  5. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    That's a clean burn for sure, but may need to close the air damper some so you don't blow the hot air out of the firebox so fast.
     
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  6. Maximus

    Maximus

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    Dexter - I appreciate your comments as you are the pioneer and the model I followed for my mods. I'm curious about your last post and would like to better understand what you think the right balance might be? I'm really curious because I see other pellet stoves burning much the same way as I was finally able to get mine to burn. No doubt the exhaust is much hotter, but the house heats up much faster as well. I mean, pellet stoves require double walled vent pipe for a reason...right?

    I wish I had the time/patience to make a mod then test and measure improvement...but unfortunately that didn't happen. I did a number of "improvements" this time around so not sure what gave me the best benefit. I know I had hopper leaks as I had the "V" thing was going on...so I resealed everything and removed the hopper extension as well. I honestly think the incoming air being split 50/50 (50 to pot, 50 to door) in the frame is a curious design. It was a PITA to undo that split (although I didn't have my plasma cutter up & running so it might be easier with that) as it's tight in there, but I really don't think (well...I know) you need all that air flowing around the door as my door is flowing no air and the door is only lightly (very lightly) seated with no gaskets.

    Well - so far so good, been running a couple days & my 2,700sf house heats up fast!
     
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  7. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I think the air around the door helps it keep cool to prevent overheating but I can be wrong. Do I need to shave the assembly to use a rope gasket? If I don't, I'll put some before I use it for the larger heating season.
     
  8. Maximus

    Maximus

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    Well...raising the pot an 1/8th shouldn't do much...you'd just need to ensure the re-light plate arm clears the slightly raised pusher (if not that area can be ground down to allow clearance). That might also extend pot life as the main pot failure area (igniter area) will have a bit more clearance from the igniter as well.
     
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  9. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Your burn may be right? I would test output heat from the plenum vs the exhaust temp. The faster the air flows through the firebox, the less time it has for heat exchange. So you essentialy dump more hot air out of the exhaust. But if more air creates a hotter fire? ? You could throw it out of the Furnace faster and still have great output temps. So you may be correct in your air flow.

    My Quad burned like a wildfire and spit half burned pellets from the burn pot. That's why I started to modify this furnace. But because it self cleans itself? It doesn't have to eject all the ash from the pot. Some can be left behind because it's cleaning itself at 10 hrs (max time if on Premium Pellet).

    Again, my furnace runs well and burns clean, but my flame is nowhere near as active as yours. I have my damper closed to about 40% closed, but you have some very good mods to your 50F. I am a very jealous man :thumbs: You sir do very good work!

    I just took a small video of my furnace running about 20% closed And then closed it to 40% against the stop screw. I'll upload to YouTube now and post it in a bit. I just cleaned the venting and internal passages of the Furnace today for the 1st time in 2 full years/seasons :eek: :bug: But it wasn't that bad and the burn was not affected at all. After running it for 6 years, I have come to realize I don't need to clean it that often. Only the outside horizontal had a bit of build up.

    Outside horizontal before and after
    20171101_192427.jpg
    20171101_192953.jpg


    Inside vertical before and after
    20171101_191447.jpg
    20171101_195244.jpg

    The back chamber that leads to exhaust manifold before and after
    20171101_194618.jpg
    20171101_194807.jpg
     
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  10. Maximus

    Maximus

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    Dex - I appreciate the advice...is there a ratio I should be trying to achieve? That burn was at maybe 30% airflow and I didn't even clean my exhaust pipe from last year...it was also 50 degrees and pretty high humidity, if I recall.

    What's the best way to measure those temps? I have an IR reader, but guessing a probe may be better???

    And please...don't ever be jealous of me...like I said, I'd never even dream of attempting any of this if you hadn't paved the way...and I still owe you a better pot!

    So...it burns really well...and I didn't even do the exhaust manifold mod...I guess that leads me to believe that the real issue with the 50F is not outgoing or incoming volume capabilities, but rather the efficiency of utilizing what it already has. I did upgrade the sail door and I'm running Don's exhaust motor/impeller combo...so I'm moving more air, but even with those mods my OEM pot/frame setup came nowhere close to burning the way it does now. I think the real issue is that frame 50/50 split and sealing off air gaps...I mean having a thicker pot should have no impact on burn performance but rather just an improvement on service life.

    Knowing what I think I know, if I had to do it all over again I'd probably just:
    1) Replace just the V section of the pot with 1/4" SS (I'm going to try that on a butchered pot I have laying around to see if feasible)
    2) Modify the frame:
    a. open up the 50/50 split
    b. block off the door flap ports
    c. use 1/4" SS modified door
    d. modify pusher arm to work with modified door
    3) Use a 1/4" SS re-light plate

    I'd be curious how the above would run (assuming good seals on the doors and hopper are in place)...
     
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  11. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I use a K type thermocouple probe to measure air plenum temps. I have a couple cheap ones and an expensive one. All read the Same, heck I even used a good probe thermometer and it was only about 5° off.

    I'd concentrate more on the air plenum temps than the exhaust temp coming from the vent (way to many inconsistencies because I use it at the end of the vent. I don't want to drill an 1/8" hole and have to deal the pipe with the probe on my inside pipe).

    As for the flame? It has a great burn. Don't get me wrong, but as fast as it was flowing, the flame didn't come close to the top plate of the furnace. What year level were you running there?

    This is my flame on start up. The air is wide open at the start of the video and then I go back and close till it hits the set screw (my normal run setting). The ash in the pan is still a little crusty, but it's a thin layer. And it does self clean every 10 hrs. So a little build up with a good burn won't hurt. Especially considering how bad it ran until I started to modify mine.

    I am uploading that video now. I meant to do it Wednesday night, but got busy and forgot.
     
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  12. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I have the probe pulled out almost all the way, but when it's in? It is just in the middle of the heat stream. And about 10" from the top of the Furnace so all the air has a chance to mix together pretty well.

    1509754911095289199949.jpg

    Don't mind the auger bushing noise. That's something I meant to replace before this season... Hope it lasts till the end.

     
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  13. Maximus

    Maximus

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    I'll have to look into a probe and see what's it reading...unfortunately, it doesn't stay at it's max burn for long...but then again it's been a mild fall. Hard to tell from my vid angle but the exchanger plates were taking a blame beating...so much that I'm going to have to keep an eye on them as they do warp...maybe SS for them in the future as well...
     
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  14. Irish-1

    Irish-1

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    Hello, I'm new to forums,so please forgive me if I'm not in the right place.Growing up I've always had wood heat,we moved to a new house last march and I installed a Fahrenheit Endurance for ease,End of March ,April,and part of May she worked well went though a ton of pellets,Gave her a cleaning top to bottom, unplugged it for the summer,Went to start it up and the end of October,No dice, Wouldn't even power up.Got a new Board from the dealer,7 days later, and it came to life, but not the same.
    In one week,I only used 10 bags.But it filled the ash pan,Black soot all over out side,at one point it got so hot i could hardly touch the front door!I called the dealer asking questions,So i cleaned everything again,stove ,exhaust,check fresh air inlet, hopper.I had a lot of fines in the hopper so a vacuumed them out and half azz sifted the pellet before loading hopper.The dealer also told me to open the air inlet wide open.... its be running perfect now for a day anyone else run into this ?Im building a vac pellet sifter this afternoon so no more fine go though my stove. Thoughts?
     
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  15. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Welcome to FHC Irish-1 :handshake:
    You've come to right place for help with your new furnace. We got to thread lightly with issues because of warranty, we do not want to void that:zip:
    Can you post pics of your set-up including vent. Self install or dealer?
     
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  16. jtakeman

    jtakeman Moderator

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  17. Irish-1

    Irish-1

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    Thanks Fellas ! Ivanhoe,Self install.Here are a couple pics pellet stove.JPG pellet @.JPG
     
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  18. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I see a OAK:yes:
    Nice clean install:thumbs:
    Is basement damp?
    What's the vent consist of, elbows and lengths? And outside make up?
    The length of OAK?
    Serial # for furnace version?
    Lots of questions, just trying to get the feel of the setup for troubleshooting :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017
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  19. Irish-1

    Irish-1

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    OAK= Outside Air K?? Im # 3592. The Exhaust vent is 3" to 4" right at the stove outlet, 4" Tee then a 36" length, a 90,then a 48" though the basment wall and has a fancy ss cap on the end. pipe is 16" off the ground. The Outside air is 2" flex and probably 10' in length. Thank you for the kind remarks on the install:). Information is key in trouble shooting! Basement is Dry,I also run a dehumidifier,Ive got seven tons pro pellets stored there too, with spacing around all pallets and a articulating fan moving air
    around them.
    :dennis:
     
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  20. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Outside Air Kit
    If you can post a video of the flame in action preferably on high would be helpful. What color is the ash on the walls of the fire chamber? Where are you at on the damper for intake air?
     
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