In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

MS441 MS440 MS460 - High Output Oiler Install

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by MasterMech, Mar 6, 2014.

  1. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2013
    Messages:
    9,642
    Likes Received:
    25,969
    Location:
    Greenville County SC
    One of my main gripes with most Stihls built within the last 15 years or so is that the oilers are very stingy, borderline inadequate for bars in the upper range of what Stihl recommends for each model. So I decided to do something about it, at least for my MS441C-M which wears a 28" bar 99% of the time. This is a pretty easy upgrade, even if it's not all that cheap (The new oiler cost me a hair over $70.) and certainly worthwhile on a saw that wears 28" or longer bars regularly. This upgrade will also work on the MS440 and MS460.

    IMG_0650.JPG

    Started out with the bar, chain, and clutch cover removed.....

    IMG_0651.JPG
    With the drum and rim sprocket out of the way, the clutch is exposed ....

    IMG_0652.JPG

    A couple raps outta the little MG31 and the clutch spins right off .....

    IMG_0653.JPG

    And here's what you see. The brake band, oil pump drive gear and the oil pump itself, covered in sawdust of course.

    IMG_0654.JPG

    Nothing a couple shots of compressed air won't fix. Now we can see better in there!

    IMG_0655.JPG

    Remove the 2 screws holding down the oiler and pull the whole assembly right out. You might want to pop the cap on the oil tank to relieve any slight pressure before you do this. Ask me how I figured that one out.....

    IMG_0657.JPG

    And you're down to bare case now. A good time to inspect the crank seal on a saw with some time on it.

    IMG_0659.JPG

    The old and new oilers side by side, even the part number on the cast housing is the same.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014
    clemsonfor and Certified106 like this.
  2. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2013
    Messages:
    9,642
    Likes Received:
    25,969
    Location:
    Greenville County SC
    IMG_0660.JPG

    The new oiler all strapped in.

    IMG_0661.JPG

    While reassembling, this is a good time to grease the clutch drum bearing.

    IMG_0662.JPG

    I will usually put a dab of the grease inside the bearing and press the bearing over the crankshaft and into the bore of the drum. This forces the grease through the bearing and packs it quite well inside and out. Then wipe the extra grease off with a rag.

    Once the e-clip and sprocket are back on, you're ready to go. Stihl cautions that it is now possible to empty the oil tank before the fuel tank, so I will be keeping an eye on that.
     
    clemsonfor and HoneyFuzz like this.
  3. Boog

    Boog

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2013
    Messages:
    1,181
    Likes Received:
    2,600
    Location:
    Where my spirit is free
    If the cast number on both parts is the same, how do you specify this when ordering .............................. just "high output oiler"?

    Also, do you still block that piston to get the clutch off, or does the inertia of the gun itself break it free?
     
    clemsonfor likes this.
  4. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2013
    Messages:
    9,642
    Likes Received:
    25,969
    Location:
    Greenville County SC
    The part number for the oiler is 1128-640-3250 or you can order the oiler from an "R" model 440/441/460.

    With the spark plug in, the gun breaks the clutch free on it's own with no trouble. Literally, zap zap, clutch in my hand.
     
    HoneyFuzz, Certified106 and Boog like this.
  5. Certified106

    Certified106

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    4,172
    Likes Received:
    11,909
    Location:
    In The Hills
    I have used the same Zap, Zap method to remove flywheel nuts off of small lawn mower engines and it works great unless you forget put the impact wrench in reverse :emb:. Yup I broke the crank off of an old Troy built tiller engine flush with the flywheel. I then had to drill and tap the crank so I could thread a bolt into the shaft to keep the flywheel on and it worked great :thumbs:
     
    HoneyFuzz and MasterMech like this.
  6. HoneyFuzz

    HoneyFuzz

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2014
    Messages:
    4,390
    Likes Received:
    14,099
    Location:
    Northeast , Ohio
    Great pics on how to do this job !!!!! P.S. I use an impact gun myself.....easy peezie :)
     
  7. mdavlee

    mdavlee

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2013
    Messages:
    4,380
    Likes Received:
    10,478
    Nice thread. If you want to dismantle the pump you can change the inside parts.

    It doesn't fit the 440. It's a different oiler setup. You have to mod the plunger and control bolt in them.
     
    Boog, clemsonfor and HoneyFuzz like this.
  8. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Messages:
    15,984
    Likes Received:
    37,377
    Location:
    Greenwood county SC
    Good post MM. I too was wondering if same part number how do you know difference. Or is it a cast number not a part number?
     
  9. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2013
    Messages:
    9,642
    Likes Received:
    25,969
    Location:
    Greenville County SC
    The cast number is only for the pump housing. It's the internals that are different.
     
    Boog likes this.
  10. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Messages:
    15,984
    Likes Received:
    37,377
    Location:
    Greenwood county SC
    Ok so the units as a whole have different part numbers.
     
  11. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2013
    Messages:
    9,642
    Likes Received:
    25,969
    Location:
    Greenville County SC
    I imagine that's much more affordable than buying the pump as a unit. Seems as if I have a nearly new stock oiler here in front of me now.... What to do?

    Good catch! This kit is listed for the 441, 460, and the 461. Made me go back and dig out the instruction sheet. :thumbs:
     
    Boog and mdavlee like this.
  12. mdavlee

    mdavlee

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2013
    Messages:
    4,380
    Likes Received:
    10,478
    It depends on the price. The parts are around $40 give or take $5.

    The 440 oiler is the drawback to it running bars over 24".
     
    Boog likes this.
  13. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Messages:
    15,984
    Likes Received:
    37,377
    Location:
    Greenwood county SC
    He said the new oiler was $70 so tats cheaper.
     
  14. mdavlee

    mdavlee

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2013
    Messages:
    4,380
    Likes Received:
    10,478
    I think I got mine for $57. That's worth not fighting the oiler parts sometimes. I had a body go bad on one oiler from what I don't know but it would not spin and killed the oiler drive.
     
  15. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Messages:
    15,984
    Likes Received:
    37,377
    Location:
    Greenwood county SC
    For $57 I would not do it for $70 like MM said I would think twice about it.
     
  16. nate

    nate Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2014
    Messages:
    2,027
    Likes Received:
    2,291
    Location:
    Palmer, AK
    My brother has a 460R he "converted" into a regular saw (took off the guards, put a normal pull handle).

    He runs a 16" bar on it and I wasn't too impressed with the "high output" oiler on it. I didn't notice any difference between it and the regular oiler on my saw to tell the truth.
    I haven't found a Stihl saw yet that I felt oiled enough.
     
  17. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Messages:
    15,984
    Likes Received:
    37,377
    Location:
    Greenwood county SC
    The ones Bout 15 years ago did ! Figure out how to get an earthquake liked in there!!

    The piled on my old 011 oils like I like. Idle itfor a few mins and a huge rope of oil will sling off.
     
    Boog likes this.
  18. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2013
    Messages:
    9,642
    Likes Received:
    25,969
    Location:
    Greenville County SC
    I don't know if the Rescue saw had the HO oiler? I would imagine it did but that's just a guess on my part. The PNW versions that are sold with oversize clutch covers and 3/4 wrap handles had the HO oiler. I imagine those are pretty common up your way Nate. Those of us in areas where the 1/2 wrap handled saws are the norm get the econo-oiler by default.:mad:
     
    mdavlee likes this.
  19. Boog

    Boog

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2013
    Messages:
    1,181
    Likes Received:
    2,600
    Location:
    Where my spirit is free
    I think you need to look for a new toy that needs one! :whistle:
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014
    MasterMech likes this.
  20. nate

    nate Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2014
    Messages:
    2,027
    Likes Received:
    2,291
    Location:
    Palmer, AK

    The 460R (Rescue) has the high output oiler, at least the one my brother has does.

    I ran it with the oiler turned all the way up, same as I do on my saw and I didn't notice any difference. He runs a 16" bar, I run an 18"... in either case I find it doesn't oil that great. I use about a tank of oil to a tank of fuel... as does his saw.

    How "high output" is it... have to wonder?

    I asked him about it being the oiler was cranked and he said the same... didn't oil enough.

    My main beef is the bar/chain getting hot... and the wear. I've gotten the bar hot enough that the paint burned off and the metal around the slot turned blue.


    OHHHH.... PS...

    Just wanted to mention to all. Make sure the little tab of the oiler drive arm goes in the slot on the clutch drum. Someone didn't do that on my 660 and it pushed the arm into the oil pump, wearing a hole into it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014