I had a 385 here with a bad pto bearing. Had to split and install new bearings in it along with seals and a new piston. The cage came apart and had scarred up the piston top and squish band. I used sand paper and the old piston to smooth it out some for now. It will be sent off later for machine work any way.
Quick question, How do you remove the nut from the end of the crank shaft which holds the flywheel on? I never seem to be able to find a good way to keep the crank from spinning. Thanks for the pictures.
You have to put a piston stop in or use like rope and feed it through the plug hole to stop the piston.
Ok, I had thought about that but was concerned it would hurt something of course I wasn't thinking of rope. So I can just feed a soft piece of rope in through the exhaust and out through the spark plug hole to use as a piston stop or did you mean just push the rope down through the plug hole and just allow the piston to compress it into the top of the cylinder as a stop?
Pardon the novice question, but what is that contraption in the first picture the crank and rod are sitting in the middle of?
Yea just pull the plug. Take something like a starter rope and feed it into the plug hole then rotate the motor till piston compete sees it to the tip of the cyl. That contraption I thing is some sort of press I think to either press the crank and or bearings out , but I to am a saw splitting want Tobe.
Push rope in through the plug hole. Don't put it through the exhaust port. It can get hung up and cause problems. That tool is the case splitter. Pushes the crank out of the bearings.
Half wrap. The 390 in my avatar will be back and it has both handles with it. I'm going to put the half wrap on the 385 for now.
This is almost accurate. But if you just feed rope in at any time in the stroke?? You will be asking to snap a ring off in a port.. Make sure you look in the plug hole and that the piston is above the transfer ports and exhaust port before you feed in any rope (the nut is left hand tighten/ or lefty loosey). So rotate engine clockwise until the ports are covered up. Then feed in a couple 2 to 3 feet of pull cord. Then slowly turn up, and then finally turn ratchet and loosen nut. If you have the exhaust port visible or a transfer (Mike pointed this out above) then the rope will get caught in between them and all sorts of bad things can come about..
I have a 372 tank handle that if I feel the saw is worthy of I will swap in. It looks good. I have and have been running a china tank on my ms650 for a few months now. It looks identical . The plastic feels thinner but it functions for what I am doing with it. If I was a professional I probably would not want one but I think its a good fit and I got a smoking deal on it with the plastic covers. The one thing in that swap was I needed the OE switch shaft. The AM one was not rigid enough to function as the stihl have that long shaft and if could not withstand the leverage that the spring had on it. The wrap handle looks like the mounting holes are a 1/4" or so off but other than that it looks and feels similar to me. I think I have $17 in this handle. So its worth it to try. The stihl tank with plastic I think I had $70 in? The 372 tank/handle I have $28 in it. These are shipped to my door prices.
I had a customer send in one of those china tanks for a race saw build on a 365. lets just say I sold him an oem tank because of how poor the china tank was made. the throttle lever wouldn't move without hulk type force .
Must be quality control? The stihl tank I have functions just as OEm would. No more noticeable force needed. The husky tank is not on a saw but as it sits its easy to pull throttle. They have very good customer service. So eyes it takes a day to email but I think its one girl doing all the emailing so u can see she would have a lot as many sales as they do on ebay. The carb mount plastic had a tiny ear broken off of it on that saw. I sent pics and they sent a replacement immediately. The old one functioned but the air cover sits ever so off to the side as the top was not square due to the break. No big deal and no one really ever will notice it. I would of used the replacement but due to having the saw assembled and using it I have not swapped it yet. And also with the little one I am using my free time to either run the saw or mess with others and no t one that functions fine.
Interesting reviews on them. I wouldn't use them on a saw I planned to sell but might try one out for me.
I would sell my 650 as is. I would disclose it but honestly dont think its a big deal. It functions flawlessly.
