Judging condition of top end?

Open port. I haven't removed the cylinder but I did dig up an AS thread that described various indicators, and all signs point to open.

I got the 55 at the same time as the 064 I just sold, but the 55 only needed a fuel line, spark plug and oiler gear. I also swapped in a .325 sprocket because I didn't (and still don't) have a 3/8 husky b&c to try with it. It's in nice shape, and runs great now.

 

+1 on doing it right, I just seen those saws on ebay selling in the 150-180 range. There were lots of china and hong kong top end kits cheap, didn't see many others so I don't know what kind of money you're looking at to go 'all in' You won't go wrong replacing the piston.

 

I'd keep the 350 over the 55 if it ran like this one !!!!!

 

You can tell that guy spends a lot of time with a saw in his hands. He doesn't have to think very long about where to cut.

I'm attached to the 350 because it was my second chainsaw ever, and the first that was really useful as a firewood saw. When I bought my house I picked up a used Husky 137, not knowing anything about what I really needed. That saw struggled with my first scrounge, a red elm that had been dead a while. I started looking to step up, and found the 350 on CL. A Google search turned up a few enthusiastic AS threads about the model, so I bought it. I've had it longer and used it more than any of my other saws. It would be sad to let it go.

 

I'm putting together a parts order. Is it typically necessary to replace the base gasket when the head is pulled, assuming it looks like it's in good condition?

 

These guys here will say leave it out!!! If good I would reuse it, but if placing an order and going to use one id just buy anew one can't be more than a fee bucks plus your paying shopping anyhow.

 

You'll have it apart, might as well check the squish with the new slug in it and no gasket.. See where you are...
I prefer to have a gasket if possible, but if the squish is at .040 with the gasket, it's gonna get tossed in the trash...
Shoot for .020-.025.

 

Well, I just sent $55 off to Northwood Saw, which will get me a meteor piston, base gasket, fuel line, gas cap seal and spark plug terminal. I feel a bit guilty for not having looked this saw over more closely sooner, but I expect it and I will both be happier soon.

 

If that was all it was gonna cost, I would have told you to put a piston in it and saved 100Gb of server space! Why I oughta...!

 

Well, this is becoming an education. I just put the top end back together and attempted to vacuum/pressure test it, which I neglected to do before disassembly. I found a nasty leak under the "bearing cup," which is a sort of clamshell riser block that holds the crank bearings down and sits between the cylinder and the plastic crankcase. I've taken it all apart again. The failed sealant feels something like Permatex, but perhaps a little harder/tougher. Any recommendations as to what to use as a replacement sealant? At this point I'm guessing it would be dumb not to lift the crankshaft out of the plastic lower crankcase and spread new sealant over everything.

 

Use lock title. ....mum what's that number that say for deleting base gaskek. Hold on.

#515

 

Hmm, Loctite's information sheet says it's for use between metal surfaces. This joint is half plastic.

 

Ok then disregard that.

 

Permatex Ultra grey...
Yes, lift crank out and seal both sides with fresh.. Clean all the old junk off..
Let sit overnight after assembly before firing it up..

 

Off to the auto parts store...

 

I found the Ultra Gray Permatex, but its labeling advises against using it where it will be in contact with gasoline. I found some relevant threads on Another Site, with reccomendations for Permatex MotoSeal, which nobody in my area seems to carry. May have to order it from somewhere...

 

Further research suggests the appropriate stuff is Ultimate Grey, not Ultra Grey. Fine distinction there.