There are two rubber components to 660 pumps. The first is the small o-ring connecting the pump to the case outlet. The second is the aforementioned plug at the end of the pump. It should be an easy fit into the pump. Pics of your pump? I have installed pumps without this plug, they work fine... but I do try to go back and put one in when I can.
My oil pump, overview What I called a peened end It seems obvious to me that oil pump is the way it is on purpose, it is just wrong.
Plug in position in an 1125 oil pump. They may be the same part #. Some are white and are more plastic, others are black rubber.
It may not go in too far. Maybe clean up that burred edge a bit? Any guesses on the function? Probably keeps junk out of the pump piston area so it can move freely. Maybe it creates a better fit to the case (vibration concerns?) Figures I just had my 660 pump out on Saturday, should have taken some pics.
Right... the problem is Oldman47's plug isn't fitting into where it should go. I was just speculating on the function of these plugs.
I bought a new pump instead. I will mess with this pump after I have my saw running. Assembly sequence notes: If you forget that small bumper near the fuel tank end of the case the whole fuel tank slides right into place but it is a bit sticky going in when you have that bumper on the other side sort of pinching the tank. It slides in but is not as effortless. Maybe a little lube on the end touching the tank would have helped but I don't know. I thought about it after the fact. Cylinder before fuel tank, definitely. Make sure you have the head bolts in place before you drop the cylinder that last inch or so or find someone with much smaller hands than mine to help put them in place. With the cylinder in place, mount the intake manifold and the impulse tube to the case/cylinder side before you do anything with the fuel tank/handle. I found that with the impulse installed at that end it was easy to guide it into position as I brought the rear handle assembly and the main part of the saw together. As long as I could get even 1/8 inch of the impulse sticking through the plastic near the carburetor I could grab it and just pull it through. That left me free to focus on the intake tube and bring it through using the string trick. I used an old shoe lace for that and it worked great. I just had the intake pressing against the plastic housing and pulled the string to unwind and bring the tube through. Then it was go back and grab the impulse tube with some pliers and seat it in the plastic housing. The AVB mounting screws were a bit of a pain because they did not want to go in straight into the tank/handle assembly. I had to keep holding them as straight as I could while turning the driver. Another fun part was the AVBs are flexible so even if you have 2 or 3 already installed the others may not line up with the holes without some help. I found myself using the flexibility of the already installed mounts to line up the next one.
Well, you were right I have been enjoying it. I find it a bit challenging but am making progress. I find that by reviewing all of the available build threads by Matthew Olsen, 94BULLITT , Bedford Teague and afleetcommand I have been able to spot a lot of hard spots and find some assembly tricks. I have only been to Lowes hardware dept twice for screws and such. I needed a M5 x 16mm screw for the bumper on the top of the saw case and found myself short of m5 nuts for the carburetor but got a bag of 10 for only 80 cents so now I have spares. My delivered oil pump looks wrong, I showed a picture earlier, so I am focused on work arounds to keep moving forward while I wait a replacement from a local source. That led me to mount the bumper spikes earlier than I might have running the bolts from the inside to the outside and using the nylock nuts which made the mounting screws come out just the right length. I may have invented a new work around there. I found that mounting the chain catcher to the outer cover was easy but getting that darned snap ring in place was a challenge at first. Then I concluded that using a 5 mm socket would be just the thing to start forcing the snap ring over the end of the stud. Then once it was well on its way I just used a pair of long nosed pliers to seat it. For rings, I found a "DIY" method of using tie wraps in place of a ring compressor by doing a Google search. I concede that a ring compressor would have been easier but the tie wraps worked great and with only one saw to build I didn't want to buy a ring compressor. Sequence wise I definitely think the P&C ahead of the gas tank makes sense. I have built the flywheel side while waiting on that oil pump and waited until the gas tank was mounted to begin installing the magneto coil. That way the wires from the switch on the gas tank assembly could be routed right to their final location with no rework. Things that are still waiting on the oil pump are the entire PTO side of the saw except the bar cover and bumper spikes. Those parts don't require anything else to be installed. The carburetor install went a lot easier than the one that 94BULLITT did. In my case I received a gas tank assembly with a 3 inches or so long piece of tubing coming from the fuel tank. I just held the carb back a bit from the installed position to make connecting it a bit easier and then moved the carb into position. When I pushed it in the impulse tube just slipped itself on. I had some fun fiddling around getting the throttle linkage connected but had seen enough videos to know I didn't need to take anything apart to do it. Based on various comments I bought and installed a HYWAY compression release instead of using the one in the kit. I have no idea if that was a good choice but it did have a nice crush washer so I was pretty confident in just seating it like a spark plug using a 13mm deep socket. The carburetor/air filter cover is in place with the winter/summer shutter installed for summer use. Now for the hard part. I don't think I can do anything more without that darned oil pump.
