Stove pipe costs

Disagree. Lot of work went into that, and it looks great.
I'm curious what you think of the side shields on your 30. Been seriously thinking of getting a set for mine.

 

Thanks papaD I appreciate that . I wish I would have had them the first year with the stove, I was already cutting it close with the ctc's and my walls on both sides were getting pretty dang hot. With the shields, I can have a 750 stt and the trim and walls never get above 120. Only complaint, and it's an easy fix, when I turn my blower above 50% they tend to rattle against the side of the stove at times. I took them off and bent them outward a bit and the prob was solved.


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Shouldn't be a problem, as I never run mine that high. Good tip though. The blower itself makes some noise, but I think it's just clogged with dog hair, so it's out of balance or something. It'll be cleaned before season starts.
I have about 6' on either side of the stove, so no real CTC issues that way.

 

I should note that I don't normally run that hot either (on occasion). Was just using it as a reference. Although I have seen temps in the 850-900 range a time or 5 but that's a diff story altogether.

I would say, if you have no concerns I wouldn't get them. If anything I feel like I lose some heat with them on, however with my setup I'd rather have the peace of mind.


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Oops, I meant the blower speed....mah bad.
Yeah, it's not too difficult to get the stove to 700, but I don't normally run nearly that high.

 

To add to that, my draft is insane. I plan on adding a pipe damper before the burning season this year. I have to shut er down at 250-300, and then she'll creep up to 700 most times. And that's with the doghouse air blocked 1/3 with a magnet.


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Splitsnstacks you did a nice job on the stack for not knowing what you were doing but Im hardly believing you in a good way!

Now its something I should mention. You guys are talking about 700° F temps here and I gotta reason on here. My stove manual says the limit is 700°F which kind of makes it weird because theres some good hardware in here and Im just curious if this is an ok level of temp that is enough for the buffer temp. What I mean is is this temp ok to set a good amount of logs in and turning down the draft without hitting it while staying within the optimal burn temps? I guess Im going to have to try it out. The Timberwolf, I never really saw Negative reviews online for it. Just an upset amazon buyer that said he had to replace his glass and gasket and brick first year but it was really confined to only one sentence as a review. Nothing in detail at all. Every other review was actually positive and said it was enjoyed. Website and other selling sites say this is just your run of the mill stove and easy to use. Sounded good enough for me.

 

Nice! Or, 'that is a fine lookin' pipe ya' gots there' (Easy Boys!).

Interesting the different ways to do things I think. My woodstove chimney goes through the center, almost, of the house but the other chimney I put up runs along the outside of the house also. I choose to enclose mine in a full length chase that runs through the house soffit and continues up about 8' above the eve edge of the roof. The soffit is 24" deep, and the chase is 20" so it gives the chase actually runs through the edge of the house although actually it does not, and there is a little 'cricket' (not sure of teh correct name) between the chase above the roof to prevent a 'Vee' that would trap water and debris. I will take a photo of it and post it in this thread, it is hard to describe but just a different way to do the exact same job as your installation.

Brian

 

A little OFFTOPIC:

Stack temps. should be controlled so that they do not get hot enough to do outright damage to any part of the exhaust or stove; 700 F degree temps. measured at the outside of the stovepipe mean that temp. inside the pipe is very high- a rough but useful rule of thumb is that outside temps. would be double the inside temp, which would be 1,400F: very hot, especially if sustained. The other reason is that it is usually hot flue gasses that ignite any creosote in the chimney, which is what a chimney fire is and that is to be avoided in any chimney, stainless steel or masonry. While the chimney should survive and contain a very hot (temps. up to and over 2,000F) chimney fire, both types are often damaged by the chimney fire and so it often leaves gaps internally and if it happens again, it can penetrate through the chimney, possibly igniting part(s) of the house. So while it sounds like 700F is fine for a running woodstove, and certainly a lot of them are used in those ranges, there is an increased risk. I measure the internal temp. of my flue gasses and never, ever let the temp. climb to 800F, usually keeping it down below 700F for the entire burn, and that is measured just before the stove pipe inside the house enters the thimble of the chimney. I had a chimney fire once in the old chimney and found I did not care for them. No known damage but I after breaking a hole in the second floor wall, I could not hold my hand on the cement block that makes up the outside of the chimeny.... pretty scary, at least to me.

Brian

 

What Dave said- me too.

See? We agree on stuff, Dave.

Brian

 

The stove temps are really what I wondered here but what is considered optimal for flue temps?

 

I do not know if there is any optimal temp. for the flue gasses. I try to keep mine around 350F (again inside the flue temps., outside will be roughly 1/2 that). That is with the stove set for an overnight burn, running pretty low. It will vary as house needs change and that mostly depends on the outside temps. In the coldest part of the winter, when it is in single digits to just below 0F here, the flue temps. will rise to perhaps 425 or so maintained.

Brian

 

Ok my intention is likely to make sure that my house is heating sufficiently as 175° is a pretty good indicator on the outside of the pipe that things should be warmed up and I can let it be for a few hours. I love fires going that I enjoy putting wood in. Its considered a chore by some. Yes in ways the gathering and putting it in a wood box for the week is but when its an awaited thing...maybe I won't see it that way for awhile. But loading wood often with smaller fires may be the best of my choices as I can let it rise and fall without a huge difference in temp drop in the house as it will likely keep heat better when its kept stable rather than different rooms being different temps. Id rather not shut doors but I plan to make sure that the heat is spread out evenly with over the door vents. Much like this summer breeze, I want to feel more warm rather than turn on my 'stat and have to wait for it to warm the room but soon as I shut it off, it dissapates really really quickly. I think this is where the metal will earn its due as its still a better radiant heat than a small element with a fan behind it.

 

Brian, I have never seen 700 degree temps on the stovepipe, I was referring to STT. If I were to see 700 on the pipe, I'd be more than worried.


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STTs depend on the stove, the type of stove and exactly where on the stove top the temperature is measured.

I have a Woodstock Ideal Steel, and the stove top is well insulated from the firebox, and sort of isolated from the cat. combustor, so my STT readings would not mean anything if compared to, say, a larger, secondary burn type stove.

There are a few very simple parameters that really help in running a woodstove w/in sensible limits I think: at no time should any part of a woodstove 'glow' even a very dull red. That is too hot. After some weeks or months of running, there should not be any light gray areas on the outside of any woodstove because just like parts glowing, this indicates temps. too high. Stack temperature (the temperature of the flue gasses or the flue pipe, single wall or the inside of double wall) are also good indicators of how hard a stove is being pushed; again no part of the stove pipe should 'glow' (the first signs of dark red in steel, in a dark room are around 900F or so). Harder to detect but no amount of actual flame should ever enter the thimble of a woodstove although this is not likely in modern stoves, it was more of a potbelly stove type situation. A magnetic stick- on temp. gauge si a great first step and what a lot of people use. A probe type thermometer is even better but both types are slow to react and will not show a sudden increase in temp. if / when the 'stove is kicked in the pants' during starting or reloading. Best is a thermocouple type probe in the flue IMO and today they are readily available and pretty inexpensive. Using one of those, it is almost difficult ot overheat or overdrive a woodstove as long as you attend it for a while after starting or reloading. For a little more money, but still quite reasonable in price IMO, are alarm type temp. probes that will all but prevent accidental over- firings or run-away stoves, provided you can close the draft and if needed, the damper down enough to keep the stove in check with that high chimney. There are threads on this forum about those alarm type devices and it might be worth a few minutes to check them out. Plus, I learned a tremendous amout about burning wood by watching realtime, atual temperatures rather than those 20 minute delay, stick- on thermometers. Thermocoupels allow us to see what is going on right now, and what changes in draft and so forth are doing right away and a lot of that is really surprising; we think of wood stoves as slow to respond but that is not the case at all, we are usually just slow in seeing the results of changes to thing like draft, damper, etc.

Brian

 

General rule of thumb is that on single wall stove pipe, the external temp is approximately 1/2 of the inside temp. It will change depending on distance from the stove as well.
Only you will be able to make the call on how best to keep the stove loaded. It's very dependent on how well the house is insulated, the size of the stove, type of wood, and a bunch of other factors that I can't think of right now.
You'll get a real good feel for it once the stove is lit, but there's a definite learning curve.

 

thats awesome!!

 

Seriously i think so too.

 

Right then! Estimator coming out next week I'll be posting to both regarding stove build and this stuff. Hope he's also got a bleedin' start date for me too.