Stove pipe costs

I did a search first and now this seems like the next step to ask. If you have either installed your stove yourself or you looked for the pipes, I wanna know.

What did you pay for them and if they are double or single walled?
Go ahead and put your installation fee if that can be calculated. Im really curious if I can buy the stuff and do it myself but I have to admit Im a bit chicken and think something will go wrong and have to call someone out of emergency.

Im ok with paying for this Im just trying to figure out ways to cut the dollar. Investment is ideal for this here but you still have to figure out the better deal. And thanks in advance!!

 

Would help if you provide a description of your installation. Chimney liner is different from a stainless steel chimney that runs up the side of the house which is different from a stainless steel chimney that goes straight up through the ceiling, attic space and roof. I did my own liner for about $800 with the insulation kit. Smooth walled flex liner about 26' tall. Probably saved about $500 by doing the install myself.

Purchased from Smooth Wall Chimney Liner - Flexible Smooth Wall Flue Liner

Hardest part was wrestling the 30' flex liner up on the roof and down the flue..

 

Actually I really just wanted a quote on how much is spent on stove pipe. The general consensus is that if I can find pipe myself that will work with my house that would be great but I doubt someone would be willing to install that for me due to their wanting to make money too. Thing is I doubt I require 30 feet of pipe that is double lined which would just be insulated for the "attic" area. My house is just one level and typical ceilings.

 

At the very least if you get a complete list of materials together (purchased locally) you will know what the cost would be if you buy/install it yourself. What the rest of us paid in far removed parts of the country may have little meaning to your local pricing. Check as well to see what your home owners insurance expectations might be. Could be a huge influence on your decision.
As a side note. After installing my personal setup I bet I crawled into my attic a hundred times the first year checking surface temps etc. with my IR on my nearest combustibles. Have fun.

 

Just remember that you can use single or doublewall stovepipe in the room, but there has to be an appropriate wall thimble or ceiling support box setup. Also, after the first ceiling penetration, everything should be "Class A".
I don't remember if you've posted all your particulars on the install yet, but we can give better advice if we have that info.
Sounds like you may have read at least part of your stove manual. Pay special attention to page 9 and beyond re: installation.
Supervent makes a good product, that seems to be less expensive than most. I got mine at Menard's. The original setup here was all wrong for the stove that was here, so I replaced everything myself. Did a LOT of reading and research, then just did it. I got lucky in that the framing for the support box was dead on when I put in the new box.

 

I've done both--- my first stove was installed by a local shop. The chimney was pricey since it was new and a high-quality brand (duravent).
My second stove I installed myself. I acquired the chimney over a two year time period on Craigslist. I paid less than half of my first stove, and of course saved several hundred in labor.
New stove pipe including the proper kits will be expensive. However, it'll look the best and last a long time.

 

The chimney connectors (black stove pipe) are both double-walled for me. This adds to cost but allows tighter clearances and a better burn (maybe).

 

I also did 2X wall stovepipe, but used one that goes from 40ish" to about 68". Made my install super easy.

This is important. We pay about $100/year extra because of the stove.

 

single story house of typical construction- about $1000, maybe a bit less. my install is of double wall in the room , 1- 3ft+2 of the short adjustable ones ( no one had a 2ft double wall available in town) then the box(transition assembly) and insulated tripe wall 3- 4ft sections ( this where most of the cost ) and the roof penetration assembly plus a cap ( no screen but of a stacked bell shape keeps the birds out. The screens always plug up with creosote - nature of the burn, cold air causes condensation of hot gases at the exit. All came from Menards - course it went on sale after I had the install done- naturally. You do not want to mix mfg, they are not universally compatible.
Sold this house so I will be shopping for stove(s) and venting again before the big chill sets in again. Fun part is moving the 30 or so cord of 5 year dried fuel I have at the house

 

Thank you for your ample replies as this gives me more thinking to do again. Next Wednesday there will be another estimate done for the stove and I will likely see about a better sense of numbers as far as footages and clearances go. Insurance as well. While i will post the estimates whe i gain better info on my original stove thread, I'll also post them here for future references.

 

Hope you get that 30 cord moved without a hitch. I think of mine as well if I ever were to have to move but I doubt that unless in a situation extreme. I do only have about 6 cord but I'm being very generous since I'm including wood that isnt cordwood as well(blocks and square wood) its hard to really determine a number. I would say more than 10 trailer loads have been collected then mark down by 3/4. The amount I collect indeed supercedes the amount I burn in a timely manner between gatherings. Anyways! Sorry to bend your good ear about it, hope it works out for ya and would love to hear more about your stove and rebuild.

 

When you start to investigate local prices remember that each brand is slightly different so you cannot buy XYZ brand of stove pipe and ABC brand of chimney and reasonably expect them to work well together. Double wall stove pipe is cheap compared to the same length of chimney, at least it is around here, and it will make locating your stove much easier to plan because of the huge reduction in clearance requirements. From the place where you penetrate the ceiling until the cap on the top of the chimney you will be using only chimney pipe for your flue gasses, although you may need some bracing if you penetrate the roof that far. I am also in a single story place and found that I only needed one section of stove pipe and some 90 degree elbows that I installed almost straight up to get the offset needed to miss my ceiling joists and put the stove where I wanted it. The chimney was another matter. I used several of the 3 foot sections of chimney first to reach the roof surface and then to get the extension above that surface required for the chimney to not be much affected by the roof. The weight support for the entire chimney rests on that bracket that you install at the ceiling so that location and its reinforcement/strength is a critical part of the install. If you have an arrangement like I did, missing a ceiling joist does not necessarily mean you have missed a roof rafter. In my case I had trusses but penetrated 2 sets because I went through an area where an L in the building floor plan meant I had trusses for one part of the roof on top of the plywood roof surface for another part. It also meant I had to cut back some of that plywood surface to get the minimum clearance to combustibles in the attic space.
For my circumstances, all of the pre-planning and measuring took a lot longer than the actual install. I just checked my CAD drawing and I used about 10 feet of chimney pipe and 5 feet of stove pipe just to get my end cap 5 feet above the roof penetration point. I was lucky to be installing close enough to the peak of the roof so I did not require much height above the roof penetration. If I had needed to go much further I would have had to install bracing to keep that chimney from falling over (at least according to code).

 

Yes where my stove is planned to be is near the peak of my roof but if i do it to the opposite wall, I may have better heat spread. The estimates guy may have a different opinion for me and I need to take that in context as the options may work better for me but being that my house is small, stove is rated for higher than my house on the low end im satisfied with it as it may overheat my house(not a bad thing in that regard)

 

yep, can always build small fire in big box - don't work the other way around.

 

That's very likely and my wood supply will stay ample for years as a little fire could go a long way.

 

I put up two stainless steel chimneys in the last two years (one for woodstove, one for oil boiler) and bought the actual chimneys from this place:
Class-A Double Wall | WoodlandDirect.com: Chimney Systems

They have a series of kits available that will help to figure out what you need and how much of each of the parts, and give you a price.

BTW: I used two different chimney brands, one was Champion and the other was DuraVent. Both are excellent but I found the DuraVent was considerably easier to install as it uses a twist- lock system rather than sheet metal screws to fasten the sections together, plus the Champion has the ends of both inner and outer sleeves exposed and they do not self- align; they take a little tinkering / jostling to get the sections together. DuraVent has solid, closed ends that just fit together.

The chimneys are not actually tough to install but what makes it a challenge is the height, especially if on an outside wall. I ended up renting a Genie electric / hydraulic lift from Hope Depot for something like $150 or $200 or similar (cannot remember exactly) and it made the job effortless. Just stand in the bucket and use the operating levers to put yourself, the chimney parts and all tools required as high as needed (at least on my two story house) and work comfortably and safely at waist level.

There are quite a few people here who can help you out if you have specific questions, and code requirements (generic code for most of the country) are usually pretty easy to find on- line although maybe or maybe not in your specific code requirement zone.

Brian

 

Thanks Brian! I did look at this site as well I was just curious how much I would need and then what else I could use. I don't know If I can buy something online and then have my installer install it, basically being part of a company they wanna make $$. Im doing this on a budget so any costs to cut by buying direct and not adding anything to the list would probably help me but who is truly willing to do that? Id have to hire a handy person who is licensed for that sort of thing and Im just not that ready.

 

Glad to help if I can. That site has pretty good pricing and it will at least give you an idea of what a setup for your house costs in parts.

You may be able to get someone to work with parts you bought; I actually had a gentleman who usually limits himself to masonry chimneys put a S.S. Tee at the top of my existing masonry chimney after I purchased on- line. But I actually hired him to knock down the entire upper part of the masonry chimney down to just past the stove thimble, and then he broke the liner out of the rest of the chimney so adding the SS Tee was just a little add- on to what he was here to do. Otherwise, it is kind of unusual to hire out a job to a tradesman while the customer supplies the parts; sort of like walking into a restaurant with your own steak and asking them to cook it....

Brian

 

30' of duravent triple wall. horizontal through the wall installation. I made a custom bracket to hold it far enough out from the house so I could clear the soffit. I also made some custom brackets to hold it in place on the way up, then finally a roof bracket. It's not pretty, but I don't care lol. I did all the work myself, from building the hearth to installing the stove and chimney. I really had no idea what I was doing, but it passed inspection and is still standing. I had roughly 1300$ into the chimlee pipes from HD.


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