Dog house air comes in at the front center at coal bed level just under the front door on alot of stoves. Its an un adjustable small amount of air that feeds the coals. When you load North South the wood gets air better and burns hotter and quicker. Some think that by closing off the dog house air you make North South Loads burn a little slower like an East West Load. People are always trying to get longer burns. Looks like the Myriad doesnt have a dog house air. Then we are still trying to figure out what a North West Loading is?
Input air as low as it will go in this short video clip. There is about 4 or 5 small splits in the stove stacked loosely so its burning pretty aggressive with such small splits. Secondary burn is a lot different than a tube stove, alot more mixing going on.
Looks like a good burn. Any longer videos? Need a long 2-10 minute video to show sustainable secondary combustion. Seems there are others that are interested, as well as myself. Short videos just show a small bit of secondary combustion, which most any stove can obtain it for a few seconds (get it really hot, then shut it down really fast). A longer burn will show the stove can sustain it, over a long period. Without the need for much flame on wood. I have a few Loooong videos out there. This is the most recent. I am interested in seeing if this stove can keep just secondary burn.
Didn't get to look a it, they have none currently in stock. Looked at its little brother, very nicely built. Far cry from our ussc or the volzewagons they were selling side by side with it.
Adam, the way you love to cook, why not get a cook stove and heat with that? Best of both. Those stoves seems to last as long as anybody wants them.
Dexter, I think you are right, I have the same questions. This stove has a different kind of secondary burn. Its unlike my tube stove I had. This manifold in the top of the stove has holes drilled all over the place covering a large area. It mixes very differently than the tube stoves mix right at the tubes. The video shows how its all dancing around crazy all the mixing of smoke and air in the stove. I dont think this stove is gonna be as good at secondary burn as they are not keeping the firebox very insulated. Its the building the heat in a firebox to really high levels that allows really good secondary flame action like you have in your video and using very dry wood on a nice bed of really hot coals. I will see once it gets cold again what I can obtain. The emissions are 5.7 grams on this stove. I think they purposely traded off emissions to more better get heat out of the stove and not trap it in the firebox to get a more efficient secondary burn. Which way is better I dont know. One member mywaynow used to say these tube stoves couldnt throw heat like his old defiant did as he couldnt get his upstairs as hot with a big tube secondary air type stove. I was also looking for a NC30 but no one sales them in my area. Or had good deals and I would have had to ship one in that added to cost.
If we had a large pool of funds we would do both, but we have a big house and I can't afford a cook stove big enough to heat the whole place.
The 30 is built the same way, but has cheap boards on top. As for the tubes or manifold? It doesn't matter. Hot secondary air is hot secondary air. I can get my stove to look and burn exactly like yours. If I run super hot and close the air 100%? It will do what is shown in your vids.. But, as I said above, it won't last. Most stoves are mainly designed the same. The only difference is size. With a small firebox, the bricks take up the entire box, with a bigger box, there is steel above the brick. The insulation isn't key here. It's fuel. Good fuel will give a good burn. Your stove won't burn much, if any different than mine. The insulation isn't relevant. The firebrick is put in so the coals/fire don't always touch the steel sides (warping) and as for insulation, your stove with a stainless top will hold more heat and further super heat the incoming secondary air. Whether it's a plate (the new Woodstock Ideal uses a Stainless baffle and produces nice secondary burns as well) or whether it's tubes won't matter. They both serve and provide the same thing. Super heated air above the fire to burn the left over smoke. The heat thing will happen naturally when you get a good fire going. Then, as you back the air down, the temp will stay up because the secondaries should take over. Get a good load, good and hot, then slowly turn your air down. Took me awhile to get it down. About a full season. You will likely need to run this bigger stove different than your smaller stove and start to forget about all the "Insulation" Hoopla. The 30 has a small row of brick, some steel, and some cheap/thin boards, with a huge gap down the center. Not a lot of good insulating value there. And burns like a SOB. And supposedly burns really clean. The 2nd video looks good. But it still seems to fade off at the end compared to the beginning. I feel that your putting to much emphasis on the whole insulation thing.
The insulated firebox is how the temps can be maintained to a level that keeps the secondaries firing as its all about the temps in the firebox. Some stove manufacturers use a different kind of firebrick to provide even more insulative properties. They use Pumice firebricks that have a higher r-value. They are not as durable and need replaced more often. But to go along with what you said I have found if you have really good high btu hardwoods that are really well seasoned/dry the stove is going to operate well. What I have found with the very well insulated fireboxes it makes the stove easier to operate with marginal wood quality. My old stove I insulated my firebox extra as some modifications I did and it did improve the overall ease of use of the stove. Like heats up quicker , could turn the air down quicker, wasnt such a pain with marginal wood etc..
"Get a good load, good and hot, then slowly turn your air down. Took me awhile to get it down. About a full season." My fires look pretty much like what huntindog posted, I have tried shutting it down many different ways and it does not seem to burn like what you posted Dextrer. When you say slowly what exactly do you mean (stages?), how much draft you have will have a lot to do with how you shut your stove down and how the fire looks. The fire brick are the insulating type and the insulation is supposed to be key in how well the stove works. Until I have a EPA stove that impresses me I am unimpressed!
Looks normal to me.. The T5 doesn't look like a gas burner either.. I like how the secondaries looks actually.. In my opinion the fire looks more "natural" with a baffle..
I replaced the back wall bricks with the heavy and hard ceramic bricks and the stove still works the same..