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Think a 20" bar will do it?

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by BigPapi, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. BigPapi

    BigPapi

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    Got a free drop off the other day.. might be some horizontal splitting in my future. I'll be getting after it with a 20" bar, so it'll be close.

    It's just pine, but I'll need it and the price was right! I'm looking forward to getting into these once the front area is cleared.

    For the record, these will be split savage style. ;)
     

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  2. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    (i think you mean vertical);)
     
  3. BigPapi

    BigPapi

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    Lol! Yeah, you're right! Phrased that part poorly for sure. What I was trying to say is that I may have to split the butt by cutting, splitting some off by hand, then finishing the cut. Whatever I can get through with two passes of the chain though is definitely destined to be split vertical. :D
     
  4. Woodsnwoods

    Woodsnwoods

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    20 inch should suffice. Enjoy!
     
  5. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    Just cut from both sides so you will have no problem getting those bucked up.
     
  6. BigPapi

    BigPapi

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    Good eye! I had to know, so I just put a tape measure on the fattest part of the end of the log on the right and got 42" - should be good to go since it tapers a little from there. With enough work around front tomorrow I might get out back to these tomorrow evening. Better get to bed soon. :)
     
  7. Mwalsh9152

    Mwalsh9152

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    If Im cutting wider than the bar, I start a normal cut top down, then once I have it down a bit I bring the saw back up and dig the dogs into the top and use some leverage to cut through the widest part of the back side, then finish the cut on the front and right out the bottom if its elevated. I have never cut a massive tree, but this has worked for me with an 18" bar in trees in the approx 24-26" range
     
  8. NH mountain man

    NH mountain man

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    No problem, 20" will work fine, I've done stuff that big with a 16" bar, not ideal but I made it work. If you have to, roll the log a little to get at it.
     
  9. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    That's pretty darned close but why not start the cut at the top and just keep tipping that bar down, cutting on the far side. I usually stop when the saw is almost vertical then finish on the side where you are standing. I see guys cut on one side then the other and wonder why they switch sides. It really is a simple cut and once people try it they wonder why the didn't do that before. (Hope I explained it right)

    EDIT: 20" bar should do just fine.
     
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  10. bogydave

    bogydave

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    A fun challenge
    Post pics of the cuts

    Wood type ? Spruce ?
     
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  11. JCMC

    JCMC

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  12. Mwalsh9152

    Mwalsh9152

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    I think what we are both describing is the same thing, just described differently.
     
  13. BigPapi

    BigPapi

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    Sure will post pics. Sadly, I am nowhere near as good at ID on the pine family as I am on deciduous. Around here it's all "pine" so any feedback in that regard would be welcome. As I understand it, spruce has limbs that sprout at the same elevation all around the tree, is that correct? In other words, a ring of limbs, a space, a ring of limbs, etc? Will get some more pics soon.
     
  14. Mwalsh9152

    Mwalsh9152

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    I ID my trees like I ID snakes. If it's not hardwood, it.must be pine.

    With snakes, if it doesn't have a rattle, its gotta be a cobra.
     
  15. NH mountain man

    NH mountain man

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    Time to buy a snake book, and a tree book.:handshake:
     
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  16. NH mountain man

    NH mountain man

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    Yup, that's how I do it, and if you don't get thru it, take your Peavy and roll the log away from you and line up your cut and punch the bottom 1/4 or 1/3 of the log out.
     
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