I should not have watched the videos and looked at the pictures. Reminds me of old times and I wish I was doing the sawing. Scott, I noticed him looking closely when setting for his next cut. Does he not have a pin to set for 1", 2" etc.? Also, when the last board is taken off the carriage, there is no need for the offbearer to lift the dogs. Simply grabbing the board at the bottom and pulling does a quicker and easier job. Well, I'll stop here. I'll probably be dreaming all night and have to shovel some sawdust out of the way before getting out of bed...
Backwoods yes we have a pin set for inch boards but since this is only my secound time doing the sawing I'm just checking everything usually my pap does it but he said its time forhim to pass it on. Normally we would just pull the bottom of the last board off but since we hit the dog right before this log we did it this way and puller the head blocks back before bribing the carriage back this is the last blade and we aren't going for production so we played it safe.
Wondering what your options are with that blade. Could you just take off the shank opposite the broken one? I would think that two missing teeth on opposite sides wouldn't severely affect performance of the blade and by grinding down opposite shanks, it would be in balance again. I'd trust that a lot more than trying to weld on a new shank but I'm not a welder..
We're looking into different options, Stuck......there is a local company that can make the proper repair (they'd anneal the whole blade, replace the missing shank, hammer and re-temper it), not sure what Chris is going to do yet. We still have the other blade, a set of carbide teeth will be ordered for it....
I'm calling a shop on my days off to see what they have to say may not be cost effective the shanks after the broken one will need fixed too they are pulled. You can run without shanks but it leaves a void and the saw has a tendency to grab then.
I was wondering if this was the case while watching the video. Best thing I can tell you is that as you are learning, practice getting into a rhythm. Practice this when moving the carriage. Don't push the carriage any further past the saw than necessary and be reaching for that handle as it comes back to you. When you get the handle in your hand, this is where it takes practice to create that good rhythm, so that the carriage comes back and stops then immediately or almost immediately begins to move forward again. I'm sure you dad has taught you many of the necessary things you need to know. Good luck with it and you will be a proud sawyer.
Lol...We never did that but teeth flying.......OHHHH not good....So glad nobody got hurt, patience and slow but sure.....
Its actually my pap that ran the mill and got me started it's cool to see how easily he does it and he only has one arm but 70yrs experience. Thanks for the advice my friend john was giving some pointers too I'll take all I can get I have to learn from you guys knowledge before it's gone so I can pass the torch someday.
Thanks for puting this up, I totally enjoyed the pics and vids. Looks like a whole lotta fun right there Except for the mishap I had a router in a table, with a 3 1/2" long x 1" diameter carbide trimming bit in it, the motor fell right out of the base running at 25,000 rpm , and the bit was jumping around chewing on the steel router table base, I had small shrapnel hitting me before I could get it unplugged, I wasn't hurt, but ruined a $65 bit and scared the crap outa me