Extra Sticky Bar Oil

I liked the green jug Poulan they sold here. Haven't seen it in years there

 

Seems like all the new bar oil is tacky stuff. I guess its to keep it from flinging off the nose, but im not a expert.

 

I sort of like what I see from the Menards cheap stuff but I have little to compare it to.

 

I haven't noticed as I do like you and clean saws at least every outing....I like the stuff, I have gotten saws with bar oil that is VERY sticky....

 

I went and bought some of the supertech bar oil from Walmart and its more like the bar oil I have used for years.
I didnt have all the mess after cutting this weekend. That extra tacky stuff is for the birds.
Thanks for pointing me towards the walmart bar oil.

 

Walmart had several brands. They had the SuperTech brand in the oil section and then they had the Poulan stuff in the chainsaw isle.

Side note anyone remember about 18+ years ago when it use to be tech 2000 oil? Then they changed it before the year 2000 as it didn't sout so futuristic or advanced since that year had passed.

 

I've never had a problem with it. I only clean under the cover if I'm swapping chains or bars.

 

Would be interesting to see how the tacky bar oil compares to my personal favorite (canola oil cut with bar oil) or other oils in a lab type setting. How good do both resist the centrifigal ? force when they whip around the nose of the bar? How much is left of either? How much is required to do an adequate job?

 

It would be cool to check out.

I think the better question you ask is "how much is adequate"? Probably requires a whole lot of wear testing.

 

Well I have just used good ole 30 weight bar oil old fashioned stuff for years
Its a little sticky not extreme sticky.

Plus I have never liked the bar oil that says all season as it seems to be extra thin and runs more easily.

Old saws were engineered to use old 30 weight bar oil with just a little tacky to it.

The walmart stuff reminded me of the bar oil of yesteryear .

 

Doesn't the chain rely on centrifugal force to reach the links?

 

Doesn't the chain rely on centrifugal force to reach the links?

Are we talking about the same thing here?

No matter how we describe the oil getting in/on/around/covering the chain, I'm talking about what happens when the chain drags itself over and around the tip of the bar. Obviously some oil stays on the chain, and some goes flying off. The point I was getting at is there a big difference of any sort between thinner and thicker, more tacky or less tacky, or different kinds of oils (canola vs regular bar oil).If my saw could go from full chain speed to a dead stop, would the various oils show a difference on the underside of the bar?

 

I am no engineer, but it seems to me that having some tack to the oil would keep it on the drive links and bottom of the tie straps a bit longer. I'd think it would be a good thing when the most pressure is applied to the bottom of the B&C while in a cut.

I am getting what you are saying, it would be interesting to see how much oil is on the bottom of the bar if you stopped and pulled it out mid-cut. Or course dry, pitchy, hard and soft woods would be a factor as well.

 

I think we are all saying the same thing. I still think the real question is how much do you actually need. My guess would be not much.

 

If there is enough oil to form a film on any potential contact points there is enough. Preventing metal on metal contact prevents wear. Any more than that is just so much waste. The real key is how much do you really need to form that film everywhere.

 

I think if the bar is getting oil as in I keep my bars cleaned after each use . I take a air hose and blow out the channel and the oil eye hole top and bottom and even clean the sprocket thats more important than having super extra tacky oil.

I had the oregon Laser Tip Solid nose bar on my Husqvarna 44 saw. I used that bar for 20 years. I like averaged like 12 to 14 ricks of wood a year cutting good hard woods. It lasted that long using plain old fashioned bar oil nothing real tacky just a little tacky. As a matter of fact I recently bought a fixer upper Husky 44 and put that old bar on it as its still good.

So I think by keeping your bars clean and the bar is getting oil is the most important part of the equation.

I think I am going to stay with the Walmart Bar oil for $7.99 a gallon. Unless Locally I find something else cheaper.

Not sure why all this Super tacky all season stuff is showing up for 4.99 a gallon. Maybe they needed to lower their stock levels. As its regular price seems to be 6.99. There are two major stores selling it for 4.99 at the same time.

I tell you what after using the older style bar oil my saws are alot cleaner and less build up which makes me happy. Heck I had one saw I worked on for some time
thinking I had an oiler issue when all it ended up being was the type of oil I was using. With that saw I had oil all over the place as that all season stuff is thinner.

 

Is it possible we are over thinking this? Keep all components clean and in good working condition, make certain saw is oiling properly and use whatever kind or brand of bar oil you want. It will work..........

Sent from my Z832 using Tapatalk

 

yes use what ever brand you want didnt mean the tacky stuff was bad just that I dont like it.

 

The oil at rural king , Meynards, and TSC is always on sale this time of year, when people are usually buying it for cutting this time of year.

I cut a lot in the summer and can't ever find it on sale then so I buy 2 or 3 when I find it on sale this time of year to carry me through the summer.

 

Orscheln Farm and Home stores had a sale on bar oil but they were sold out but I havent ever used their brand.