Your nc30 needs a convection deck

Might hafta copy this for MIL/FIL's new NC 30...didn't patent yet didja?

 

Perhaps I did give too many details on the construction.....

there go my royalties!

 

No worries, I'll send ya a nice gift basket every Christmas...

 

Hey Dave, I copied your idea...it turned out pretty good...but I found out that ESW doesn't necessarily center up the flue connector before they weld it on I took measurements and then went to the shop and built the deck to completion, I cut the 6.5" hole in the center, (as far as side to side) but when I installed it on the stove I realized the flue connector is about 1/4" to the left of center Oh well, good enough...
I can see why these things increase heat output, the convection deck keeps the air in close contact with the hottest part of the stove much longer then would be otherwise...
I'll get some pics of it after I get it painted...speaking of, anybody remember which Stove Bright color matches the NC 30? (other than just "black" )

 

A hi-temp flat black would be good enough for your deck to satisfy the paint match snobs.....

 

I think mine is sporting some Rustoleum hi-temp black.
Darn near a perfect match.

 

I need to touch up my NC30 too. I always set my coffee cup in the same spot on the top, there is a little white spot at the hottest place in the middle of the top, the stove body around the loading door is losing paint, and the paint is peeling where the ash lip is sorta welded to the stove body.

Maybe I should try a cool color!

 

Fire engine red!

 

Heck, just buy yourself a trivet (cast iron, brass, steel) next time you pass a second hand store. Or maybe one of those fancy schmancy ceramic coasters.

 

Mine is doing all the same things, trying to heat the whole house from the basement, so I'm usually running it pretty hot.

 

On Another Site (IS vs 30-NCH Help Needed), Oldman47 suggests that a woodstove is more efficient (in convection) with side shields than without. Can anyone comment on that regarding the NC30?

No, I don't have a convection deck yet. One thing at a time.

 

Side shields are only for meeting reduced clearances IMO...now a convection deck on top is another story...I can see how that would help you extract more BTUs...

 

TRu on the above state ment . But suppling air flow from the back and opening up the front one could relize addition heat into room, down side is that all this addition heat robbing could come back to bite you on firebox/flue temp side of things. I highly endorse the convection deck on the 30 though- actually would work on a lot of stoves as I made one for my own 30. These are not permanent alterations to the unit more of an extension to the back heat shield/ fan flow area on the 30 that just sets on top of the stove

 

thanks to this place, I also made one for the el dorado (drolet) and it seems to help out.

but I remove it for cooking or brewing coffee (of course)

 

Not having an NC 30 but stove Does Have side shields rather than just the thick steel outside of it. Efficency? Not sure... that is to say it helps protect stuff say my towels I place over the baby fence for a really good mass heater....Surprisingly. I would think the heat is much less direct? More room for circulation. They don’t really hold the heat in but perhaps if they had a more reflective panel inside, more shiny metal it could?
Not spit balling here but the heat is slow but once it does go, I envision its like the fins on an old VW oil pan. Just great convection.

 

If you compare a properly designed convection shield, one intended to promote flow based on its shape and the heat being added by the fire box. It will circulate the heat into the room far better than the natural hot air flow that you will get just having a slab of hot metal trying to circulate that same hot air at the stove's surface. The key is proper design of the air passage to take advantage of the air being heated and the change in air density driving air flow across the stove's exterior surface.

 

I knew you would show up

I tend to think you are on to something, there should be significant flow due to natural convection out of those shields. But, without them, doesn't the radiated heat hit something "out there" and result in the same heat convection remotely located?

 

The problem with radiated heat is that it actually transfers heat as the 4th root of the temperature difference between the source and the object being heated and it is further very strongly affected by the geometry involved. For a point source and a flat object some distance away, say a few feet, the amount of heat actually moved depends not only on the temperature difference but varies as the square root of the distance between the objects. That is why you are not burned by a 600 degree stove surface at a few feet. The heat transfer rate has already dropped in those feet to something where your body can resist overheating. At 10,000F and 93,000,000 miles distant it is just right to heat you up a little on a warm summer day.
If you want the actual maths involved you might start somewhere like this place http://mafija.fmf.uni-lj.si/seminar...t_transfer_between_surfaces_Luka_Klobucar.pdf
It is far easier to understand these heat transfer mechanisms when you talk about them in english than in mathematics although it is far less precise.

 

But the radiant heat energy cannot be simply lost, it must be doing something as it moves through the room towards the first solid object it encounters. Does it not get "lost" by heating the air it passes through?

You obviously know more than I do on this, so my questioning is meant to help my understanding. Thanks!