Chainsaw Rebuild

I picked up a new sprocket ring for it this afternoon and it is a 7 tooth ring. What would y'all suggest for a new bar and chain? Would you stick with 18" or go to 20"? This chain has some awful looking filing on it and the bar looks like it's been heated up a time or two.

Here is the sprocket







T2 Tappin'

 

You might get a little more heat scorch on the saw body.

I have saws with no shield and seen plenty run without them.

Many here freak and have a fit if the bottom of the saw gets a scratch let alone brown on their plastic or scorched paint.

 

On that saw not more than 18" 20" for the reach but it will be a dog with that 20" bar burried. The 20" would be good to reach low limbs and not have to bend as much.

But just a heated bar won't hurt anything, if it's not burred up or anything I would run ot unless you just want the look of a new bar

 

Hmmm. Rim drive on a typical spur saw. How well do the splines on the clutch basket mate up w the worm drive plastic?

 

I put a rim drive on a husky 445 that I have. Seems to still oil like a boss. Old clutch drum was so worn it would slip the chain, so bad it didn't even drive the chain

 

Point being, I'm pretty sure those 2 aren't made for each other and there will be lots of slop. The rim will move quite a bit in the plastic and not be tight. I've been searching for info about doing it to our 2150.
Help with a Husky 350

 

This saw must have had a leak from the guy I bought it from putting JB Weld in one of the bolt holes where he lost the muffler bolt. It has a scorch mark on it where it was leaking. I had a spare muffler bolt and threw that in there to solve the leak. I was talking about keeping the heat shield and running a gasket on both sides of the shield.

I filed the burrs on the edge of the bar track off. It wasn't horrible but it had a decent burr.

The rim drive sprocket was on it from the guy I bought it from putting it on there. I just replaced the rim since I was already in there at it. I should have grabbed a pic of how it lines up with the worm gear. I lines up just as well as the spur sprockets on my 142's. Still oils pretty well. I can see a good oil streak on a piece of cardboard when I hold it near while revving it.

20" would be great for reach if y'all think the saw could handle 20". I also am looking for a little bit larger safety dogs and an outer dog if they make one. Do y'all know if they are available for a 340?

T2 Tappin'

 

I would not think there is an outer dog for that saw, if the 346 cover fits??...it would be more likely to take an outer dog. And no I don't think the saw can handle..."well" a 20" bar. But if your just cutting like 8" or 10" wood with it you will be fine , if your burrying the bar into 18" white oak I think you will stall it every time or it will be very slow going if you try to not stall it.

 

Maybe stick to 18" since most of what I cut is 12"+ white/red oak?

The saw dogs on this saw look like they have been filed to sharpen the point. Anyone ever heard of someone filling the points on the safety dog to a sharp point?

T2 Tappin'

 

Here is the thing there is not that much more bar for friction loss on a 20" from an 18" bar. So cutting 12" oak with either will probably yield such similar results you won't notice. But many will throw a 20" bar on and think they can burry that bar in an 18 or 20" oak and it will just slaughter it...that's not the case it probably won't have the torque to pull that extra chain through the cut and therefore yield unsatisfactory results.

 

Very true statement there. I don't ever bury the bar in on the 142's and probably wont on the 340 either. I know the 142's will stall in a heart beat if I bury the 16" bar even on 10-12" oak. I did bury the 24" bar on my 562 the other day on some 23" white oak and she cut like a champ though I figured she could handle it and she did. I reckon the 340 may be able to handle 12-14" or less burying it in. Have yet to cut with it but I plan to Saturday. The 562 cuts like a dream. Got to find an outer dog for it if they make one

T2 Tappin'

 

Yea that 562 Is a different class of saw. That's a pro saw designed to cut wood all day, not the random tree that fell in a 10 year storm even on the suburban lawn where it doesn't matter it it takes the guy 15 to 29 minutes longer to cut the tree up useing most of the bar length. Where as that 562 is used bucking logs in a tree service or cutting ply logs on a logging job or whatever where they routinely burry the bar out of necessity.

 

I have used a Stihl 660 helping a friend of mine in his logging business when he gets behind in his schedule. I would put the 562 right up there with it just quite a bit lighter and not as much of a beast to handle as a saw with a 36" bar. I'll post up a pic he sent of a saw one of his guys got caught up in a tree when the wind blew it the wrong way. Wind gusts were 28mph that day. The autotune on the 562 is going to be nice compared to the needles on the 142's & 340.

T2 Tappin'

 

Yea that saw won't compare to a 90cc 660 but with smaller diameter stuff it's not as big a gap as in 30" wood

 

I agree the 562 won't touch the 660 but for my needs the 562 is about perfect. I very rarely like once in a blue moon cut anything reaching 30"+ unless I'm helping him get back caught up. Usually it's 22-24" and down for me.

Here is the carnage pic my buddy sent me of the saw that was victim to a tree caught in the wind. She was about destroyed but he said it could be "polished out". It's going to take quite a few parts to get it back up and running.



What would be y'all's choice of bar for this 340 when I replace it? Wouldn't mind having a replaceable tip on it. I don't mind spending a little bit on a bar but would rather stay well under the Sugi Hara price point haha

T2 Tappin'

 

Me peraonally, I'm cheap and would put whatever I got a deal on. Used bar off eBay or here, Forester bar, or whatever.

 

So what was the proper worm gear for a 350 with a rim drive? That thread was a little confusing.

 

I'd just run what bar was on the saw. There is no need in wasting money to get one with a replaceable tip.

 

This would be my first choice too. Like I said several posts back. A blued or old hot spot on the bar is not really a problem will work fine for tons more hours as long as the rails are filed and sprocket tip still serviceable

 

and it will more than do the job for cutting firewood