Chainsaw Rebuild

This is not going to be the last mods to this saw. No doubt. If I run it and am not totally pleased I may go ahead and order that 346 top end. I'm really hoping to find another platform to base a build around a 346 top end. If this build goes well am really wouldn't mind doing a build from the ground up. It will be nice not having much in this saw so I can cut with no worries plus I helped support my local shop in their slow months. I kinda regret not just hoping on eBay and ordering that 346 top end already. I will have some build pics up hopefully by the beginning of this coming week when the parts come in. If it wouldn't have been for you guys/gals I would have probably gone back with a 340 top end. I am very grateful and thankful for all the help/suggestions.

-Rick

T2 Tappin'

 

Didn't you go back with the 340 topend???

 

I got a 345 top end coming in hopefully by Mon-Tues next week

T2 Tappin'

 

Oh, I see.

 

Definitely didn't want to go back with the 340 to end after talking about all the upgrades and performance gains. Figured for the price I'd give it a try and was able to support my local shop a little bit more. From the talk I don't know if I'll be happy with the 345 as I would have the 346 though

-Rick

T2 Tappin'

 

Most of all the parts



New fuel line and filter



New worm gear



And everything coming together













T2 Tappin'

 

Which one of these holes is the oil adjustment screw? There are two hole but the one with + and - symbol has no screw in it



T2 Tappin'

 

I don't think that saw has an adjustable oiler? I think it's a different saw on that same chasis? That's a small homeowner saw.

Also is your piston pointed the right way? Arrow foward right? Further looking I think that is the front of saw on the right side. I was thinking the front was to he left.

 

I think your piston is in backwards. The arrow is supposed to point to the exhuast.

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I appreciate the info on the oiler. It would make sense that the oiler would be preset with there being no adjustment screw.

Also looking at the pics I do believe the arrow is pointing back. Didn't have any knowledge the arrow should point to the exhaust. The mechanic at my local shop didn't include that in his tips. Is the arrow pointing back detrimental to the operation of the saw in the long run?

T2 Tappin'

 

Worth a tear down to turn it around?

T2 Tappin'

 

Yes. The ring ends I don't think will line up right. And if they snag on the ports it will destroy the top.

And I beleive your right billet upon looking again I was right the first time and the saw was pointing the direction I thought after looking at flywheel and where it is.

 

Yes, you should turn it. You could hang a ring in the exhuast port and destroy the cylinder.

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Yea. I would

 

Good catch guys.

 

Lol, I did not see you posted about the piston before me. I looked at his pics and saw it in backwards and did not read anymore.

 

I wouldn't start it back up the way it sits.

 

Thank you guys so much for catching that. I really didn't have any knowledge on the arrow. I will take her back apart and spin that piston around for sure. I definitely don't want to hang a ring and destroy the cylinder. I can guarantee it won't be started again until that piston is flipped back around. Got tomorrow off and I am installing new rod bearings along with crank bearings in a old 350 Chevy engine I got. I may get the piston spun around in the morning if not then I will for sure get it tomorrow evening. That way it will be ready to go with me when I head out to get some wood this weekend. Again I really do appreciate that catch

T2 Tappin'

 

Show a picture of your sealant when you pull it apart. I smear a layer the whole way around the case before dropping in the crank assembly. Then a bit more in the corners and around the bearing seal tops.

 

Don't all pistons have a front? Maybe some automotive ones dont? I know my diesel tractor there front sides of pistons. Saws have them. Not sure on other 4 stroke?