Madison Door Gasket

Yeah, kinda seems like if this were a "thing", ESW would have known it well before the stove model had been out for a couple 3 years already...

 

You know, I keep cutting, and it's still too short.
Must be the saw's fault. Or, the tape measure.

Nope, I just can't......

 

Looks like a line from a different female members thread...

 

Anyway to make them a little longer?
Gary

 

OK, lots of posts added since. You have to follow the whole story here to understand. First of all, I noticed that the gasket had fallen away at the top of the glass; then noticed that the glass was actually loose in the door. Now, please understand when I first got the stove the glass was not loose because I clean the glass whenever the stove is cool. Also understand that the glass is not the same size as the opening in the door; one, glass and cast iron don't have the same coefficient of expansion; and two, there is a gasket around the edge of the glass and you have to allow for the thickness of the gasket to seal the glass to the door. Please note that Mike, ESW guy, concluded that perhaps the glass which comes from a third party might have been cut to the wrong size. Now, I should have measured the new glass but I have the feeling it is the same size as the old glass, which I did measure and it is the size listed in the replacement parts list in the manual. When I installed the new glass; and I do appreciate ESW addressing the issue, I noticed the tabs. With the gasket on the glass, they are biting the gasket and only just the glass; so basically the gasket is what is helping the tabs hold the glass in place at the top. Now, the idea of course is to not have the tabs show below the edge of the door; aesthetics are important as is function. Maybe the batch of tabs that were cut that got included in my stove are off, or perhaps something else. However, if I have this problem, it is quite possible others have. As I told someone, I don't gripe to just hear myself gripe; I am sure that ESW is just as interested in any issues being addressed as I am. ESW sent me a new glass when that is probably not the issue since the old glass did measure the correct size; so that was a cost for ESW; a glass went to me that could have went into a production stove. Now, the stove door is back the way it was, with the tab biting the gasket and not the glass; and of course I will keep a watch on things.

As a side note, yes, I was leaking air at the top of the door; I am back to having to really heat the stove up before I can do burns; which means I still have a draft issue; perhaps the chimney is still too short; but this is another issue and not really a part of this thread.

 

Well, there's these...oh wait, you're being serious...errr, ahhh, yeah, probably could if one had access to a metal shop.

 

yooperdave The parts manual don't list dimensions; I am guessing these tabs are stamped parts. The tab has a round hole, so no adjustment. I can remove one and try to take some rough measurements. I don't own a set of calipers although I kept thinking about getting a cheap set from Harbour Freight.

 

Gary_602z, they are not adjustable, the hole is round, not slotted. If my machinist friend was still alive he could make me some I am sure. I probably could make some that would work; they are not very big; they are held in place with a 5/16 machine screw.

 

Could you cut the back of the hole out effectively making the hole a slot? Then slide it up where it needs to be and get a slightly longer stainless screw to make up for the added thickness of the stainless fender washer that you'll put on to help re-enforce things...just spit ballin here...

 

Sooo....are you sending the glass back since it is not the problem and then asking for tabs...or what?

5/16 screws are pretty huge. You are probably referring to the size of the head of the screw and not the diameter, right??

If this is indeed the problem a you list, try a fender washer and a little longer mounting screw?

Or try ovaling the hole out of the glass mounting tab.

But what ever you try, make sure you know what you're doing and also let it be known that you are altering the design of the manufacturer and would void any warranty, I'm sure.

 

That is a possibility and did occur to me. However, I am siding more towards a longer tab with a round hole.

 

Mike has not came back to the thread yet; he has not stated what he wants me to do if anything. The new glass is in the door since it was what Mike thought was the issue. It was not until I was reinstalling things that I noticed the tab was not in contact with the glass or just barely in contact. The install was done flat of course so the glass will probably be settling down as before and the loose glass will return. I do need to use this stove, it is my primary heat source. When I made the observations, that prompted me to measure the old glass and found it was the dimensions stated in the manual.

Yes, correct.

No, I would like to make a proper repair.

If I can find some metal the correct type I might could make some tabs. They appear to be made from steel. It would be nice if I have something the correct width as that would make it easier. If I recall correctly when I had them out, they are simply a flat rectangular piece of metal with a hole; they just need to be a bit longer. Maybe Lowe's or Tractor Supply might have something I can work with.

 

Sounds like this is a warranty issue and you shouldn't expect ESW to respond to forums regarding their warranties.

Contact the company through the conventional channels. It will be addressed by them, not a public forum.
ESW, in my opinion and experience, has excellent customer service and is to be commended for it!!

Remember mike holton is a member here (on this forum) and that doesn't necessarily mean that he is representing his employer in an official capacity.

 

How much longer does the tab need to be? Take a file to the bolt hole to make it a slot.

While I agree that this is a warranty issue, I wouldn't let a $2 part keep me in the cold. Also, I'd go through the proper channels as yooperdave mentioned.

 

If you had read through the thread, you will see where Mike did address this officially and he was the representative that handle the issue. So, there was no need for you to chastise me here in the forum.

 

Not much and you would not want it to be below the edge of the door for appearance sake. It is a cold breezy day but I am letting the coals burn out and the door cool so I can clean the glass, I messed it up again last night rather bad.

 

I think the chimney is tall enough now (barely) but that 90* elbow in the stove pipe needs to go away. I know they call for 18", maybe as much as 24" of pipe straight up out of the stove before the first bend, but that long(ish) section of horizontal is killing draft. I rather have a 45* elbow right at the stove then have much horizontal.
Kinda like this...well, you get the idea.