I am wondering how many of you guys use a moisture meter for your firewood. I have an old Lignomat mini-Ligno analog meter, I've used it for years to check M/C of lumber for my wood shop, but never for firewood. I make a reasonable assumption that if my firewood has been cut to finished length (20" for me), split to reasonable size (I try to get it small enough so that I can grab the split with one hand), and stacked to dry for a minimum of one full year, the last 2-3 months in a wood shed under cover, that it would be dry enough for any woodburning appliance. I am considering a cheap digital meter because I don't want to leave the expensive Lignomat out in the wood shed, but now I'm second-guessing myself and wondering if it's even worth buying, considering my current methods. I'm only asking because I am transitioning from an old smoke-breathing traditional outdoor wood boiler to a brand-new high-efficiency gasifier OWB this week, and I want to make sure I am keeping my M/C below the recommended 20%.
It depends upon what wood it is as to how long to dry it and that you will learn with experience. Still, if everyone gets on the 3 year plan, you will know your wood is ready to burn and won't even have to think about it. As for the MM, they can't do a lot of harm except that there are so many theories and people using them differently that I have always hesitated to say they are a good thing. Or to put it more bluntly we see many time and time again using them wrongly. Personally, I have burned wood for most of my 70+ years and have never considered the purchase or need of a MM. Either the wood is dry enough to burn or it isn't and it does not take much experience to tell the difference. But, some just like toys too and that is okay.
I used a moisture meter when starting out woodburning, but now that I am 3 or 4 years ahead with my split wood it doesn't matter. Yep, the stuff I'm burning has been split stacked and covered for 3+ years.....no problems with any hissing or water or steam or nothin!
Some Woods will not dry in a year, it's good to know where the moisture content is. I use my meter frequently and would not be without one. I'm guessing you probably know you need to split a fresh piece and check the moisture content inside right then and there.
I have a cheap MM and I don't trust it. I just burn the oldest wood I have which is 3 years old. I guess if I was buying what was advertised as seasoned wood I'd want to check it.
I like to play with gadgets so I like mine. Currently working to get to the three year plan so eventually I won't be needing it.
Backwoods Savage nailed it there with people using them differently. You can fiddle around until you get a lower reading on a fresh split to make yourself feel better about what you throw in a stove, but it is still too wet! The three year plan is the way to go. Do I have one? Yes. Do I use it any longer? Can't think of the last time I did. One of the first times I used it I noticed the different readings I could get with the same piece of wood!
If you're new to gasification, a cheap moisture meter can be a good investment. These units like wood right around 17%. Much over 20% and you have creosote problems in your fire tubes and down around 12% you get woofing - the wood burns faster generating more smoke than the oxygen available to burn it. If you've bought a Lambda unit the 12% or drier may not be a problem. These observations are based on 35 years of running gasification with storage .
I think others said it best, great tool for people new to the wood burning and for tests. I check random pieces once in a while, but I burn some larger stuff. Three year storage under cover cures the need.
I have enough wood now for about 4 years out but I still like a moisture meter sometimes for getting a reference and general information. Just a personal preference.
Almost all of the Pinyon pine I burn went through a wildfire 10 years ago, I'm kinda curious of the moisture content after reading all the comments.... I'll have to ask around see if anyone has a MM.
If not up to the 3 year plan, trying to burn 1 yr CSS oak? A MM would offer a solid reference (even if getting different readings along a freshly split face, taking the highest reading and benchmarking that)... and would thus drive the 3 year plan. Edit: not describing dead standing or dead down trees...
I too get curious and want a reading sometimes. I have 2 Moisture Meters for accuracy. Maybe I am a bit extreme.
I use it just to see how to stack fresh cut trees. As you can see this Red Oak I cut Saturday is good to go. No need to split to check as it's 17.8% in the hart wood. Like others have said if you have the room get to the 3 year plan. But if you are just starting out they can help you find out if the dead standing or blow down your working is good to go.
Freshly cut and immediately stuck with the MM? As in.....right then, as soon as the chain clears it? I would ask if you would indulge li'l ol' me, split that and give it a stick- if it's the same, I will shake your hand via the internet
I have had really dry dead looking wood that when smacked together sounded like a home run and when split was still around 28 percent or more, go figure...
Thats what I'm talking about! People new to wood burning with an epa stove do not have the knowledge nor experience! They will realize this after an effective three year plan is in effect (for some, never) and will simply revel in wood that has been css for 4-5 years! There ain't no describing it until you get there!
A moisture meter is a good tool to have. Yes, after you get at least on the three year plan, you shouldn't really need it, but until then they are very handy. Even after you get 3+ years ahead, you'll find uses for them. They are simple to use. There's basically 2 rules to using them to get valid results. The temp of the piece of wood must be above freezing ( 68° is the temperature that most meters are calibrated), and the meter should be used on a freshly split piece of wood for firewood uses. Some meters have different species of wood to choose from to get the proper readings.
I do that with some of the Dead Ash right after I make a cut, if I have 6 or 8 inch rounds , I know I do not have to split it for it to dry properly cuz, it's already dry
