Draft Question

this is a great thread! all the helpful advice!
SOOOO many things wrong here with this installation.
1. I know some will disagree, but WAY too much intake pipe at 3"
2. Any screen on the intake?
3. Anything covering the exhaust to keep critters out?
4. Any blockoff plate, as per the manual?
5. Had there been a draft test done, I think it would show insufficient combustion air (acutally would show as a high draft on the draft meter, as the intake was restricted)
6. No tee.....ridiculous with a liner....what if the flyash in the liner avalanches inside?
7. the flue should be capped with an intake cap....Harman makes one
8. all that tape...not feeling good about any of the connections near the stove.....ICC has a bolt-on adapter for Harman, a PASH6, as well as a LINER ADAPTER, which could go on right on top of the tee- all gasketed and screwed connections, not requiring tape or silicone....much cleaner
9. I have no faith in building inspectors......just because they have/had inspected it, it doesn't mean its correct OR safe
10. If in fact that ell is not pellet vent and is single wall, it should fail an inspection. One cannot simply mix and match pipe to "get it to work". I know this might be unpopular here, but the pipe is UL listed, which is why you can use it. Mix and match? No more UL listing. Single wall pipe is made for negative pressure situations, while pellet pipe is made for positive pressure applicances.....a pellet stove, for instance.
11. Looks like Simpson pipe......ugh
12. Intake pipe appears crushed at the intake nipple

 

Poor Kevin, when people don't know any better sure gets the short end of the stick by those incompetent sellers. I'm sure glad you ventured here for answers for safety sound advice. Just be prepared for a hopefully not too long solving remedy. If you're gonna continue using the unit, I would have a carbon monoxide detector in that room like Cleanfire suggested. I wouldn't tamper too much on the installation as the seller would use that against you. So in the mean time, I will be . Keep us updated on the progress of the situation.

 

Kevin say hello to Kevin. This is LW he sells those Harman stoves and pellets and installation services. I think he knows what of he speaks.

 

Preach on brother.

 

'nuff said...I feel bad for Kevin

 

You are running like I do now which is poorly, me because I haven't finished my stroke recovery yet you because you don't realize the tiger you have by the tail can leave you stone cold dead.

 

on the positive side, its pretty easy to fix......do a blockoff, get a intake cap, use ICC pipe to make the connection.....an hours work?

 

Well time to pack it in I have cleaned the stove and taken my #1 favorite pill Flomax .4 mg look it up that is my 2 AM wakeup.

 

.4 mg Tamsulosin here! Once a day

 

Now you know I can't like that at all. They suck big time.

 

Omg. I'm glad I waited to read all this first. Smokey is right. That set up is so blundered. I hate to admit it but I paid over 900 for a simple t and three feet up and out. Put the OAK in myself. That was on my fist stove in 2008. The installer made a bunch of mistakes. Smokey was the one who had patience with me and helped me get it right. Lots of others sounded in with their support. Jay and Dexter helped me select my second day stove. This is the right place to be to work out burning issues.

 

All they did was stuff insulation up the chimney after the piping went up.

 

I think you guys are right. That OAK run is 33 ft straight up the chimney and out with 3 inch pipe. And it was crimped a bit toward the stove. No other OAK install options so my gut tells me to live without it since my stove is running flawlessly now. I've reached out to my installer to let him know I have some leakage. If I don't hear back from him, I'm calling the inspector to come out.

 

Do you have a basement or a crawl space? Could you go down through the hearth pad and out the side of the house like a dryer vent? Obviously just conceptual and not installation advice.. I'll defer to the experts for that..

 

some OAK install options? Yea there is. Use a short section of UNcrimped intake pipe, run it from the intake nipple on the P68 up through the block-off plate (which isn't there), extend a few feet above it (total length 5-6'), terminate the 4" liner (at the top of the chimney) with the correct cover plate (this suspends the liner and closes off the flue pipe from the elements), and the cover plate sits on the Harman SS top intake, #1-00-674104. Easy Peezy.

I would like to point out here, not to hijack the thread, that in another post on this site, folks seemed to think a 3" intake pipe was adequate to pull air from the top of the chimney....I disagreed, and here is proof that I am......, well, never mind........

 

good idea, doesnt look great though

 

LW, this would suspend the OAK inlet inside the chimney (above the smoke shelf), the venting would still be terminated at the top of the chimney (using the correct method), the cover plate on top will have an air opening for the OAK inlet feed inside the chimney space?

 

Will do. Ok. So if an inspector comes and sees the smoke leakage at start up, will he enforce a "t" be installed or would he allow the existing set up with silicone to stop the leak if in fact that works? And if a "t" is required or whatever else, is it on the installer to pay for it all?