Advice Please

I agree with the answers here, you cant turn the air down too far as it will cause issues.
A "smoke dragon" is a description of the operator not the stove so EPA stove or not you can make it into one.

 

You should be fine as long as you aren't getting consistent blackening of the glass overnight. If you are, you have to consider you might be getting the sam in the chimney. I be something rolled up close to to the glass overnight. That happens to to me every so often. Good job getting tulip poplar to last all night. If you can do that your are golden. As you know, t.p. is abundant, grows fast, splits easy and dries fast. If you can get overnight burns, that's all you need.

 

The fact he can get Poplar to burn over night tells me he is starving the fire for air does it not?

 

I think that is exactly the OP's problem with the sooting glass. Stove is starving for air.

 

I can get a load of t.p. to last up to 8 hrs. in PE T5 with an absolutely clean burn. That said, perhaps Kimberly needs a little more air. I don't know. I check the smoke/or lack thereof out of the chimney guide me.

 

Not sure I understand you point, what does that mean "stove will act right stuffed to the tubes"? We are talking about not having enough air for good combustion which could happen no matter how much wood you have in the firebox.
This is the same guy who is plugging his chimney cap right?

 

Nope

 

Read the wrong post but turning the air all the way down is not good, seems like the flue temp will be too cool after a short period of time no matter how hot it was at the time he turned the air down.

 

Depends on the draft and the stove. I can turn my air clear down and wish to be able to go more...I have a lot of draft though, Kim (she) doesn't.

 

He is a she and whe don't know how long an overnight burn is for her.

Stuffing the stove may be good. But it can waste a lot of heat up the chimney.

Depends on the stove & setup I guess. I always thought that you were supposed to get the fire going and then turn the air down in stages till almost/completely closed. It's worked flawlessly here for years.

 

No, this is Kimberly , the cap plugger is me, bushpilot.

I suspect we are both doing the same thing wrong though, not enough air.

 

Yes, I packed the stove the night I tried to do the all night burn. As you can see in the photograph, the firebox was clean. If it warms to where I can shut the stove down and let it cool I will take the stove pipe apart and check and report. There was not much left as you can see in the photo but enough coals in the ash to get the stove going without newsprint. I should have taken a photo after loading the stove. I have not tried an all night burn again.

 

That is why I posted; I need to learn this stuff and want to take advantage of the collective knowledge of FHCers.

 

Not if the flue temp is too low which it will be for some stoves on some chimneys, my flue temp would be way too low if I tried that.

 

Wood burning is an art not an exact science.

 

Have you tried it? Your post leads me to believe that your just assuming.

 

With the 30, depending upon the draft, "closing" the air all the way isn't unheard of. And, of course, even when it is "closed," it is still getting air.

But, if the stove temp was measured at the stove top, then I think the problem is that the air was shut too soon. Since the 30's cruising speed is usually around 650, and can easily top off at 750 during a good burn. OP says that the stove temp was 550, which seems a bit low for closing the are all the way.

 

I don't assume anything when it comes to wood burning and why would you think that.
Maybe I should have said when I do that my flue temp is too low.