Well I just did the math and if x-a+41(12+6/57)(75+31)=xbc then sure enough just as i suspected, the answer comes out to...... All of them!
My friend I'll leave this dead horse be after this. You have you ways and that's fine. I would say having a break down is a bit different than running out of something that you know to be a consumable. Milk spoils two cycle oil lasts many years. I buy two cycle oil in quarts or gallon jugs, but I always have a few extra small bottles laying around or in the saw tool box. In a pinch, no I wouldn't run regular engine oil, I've seen what that can do, but then again if you're running things good enough, buying a new saw every 6 months isn't a big deal. Have a good one.
FYI, I didn't read this thread. I don't put dirty oil in my lawn mower my tractor or my truck, and avoid hitting any dirt with my chainsaw. why would I put dirty oil in my chainsaw? Just my opinion, there is always more than one way to do it, to each his own
Now, I am really going to blow your minds, When I lived on Long Island, I had a towing business. I would change the oil in the tow trucks and put it into my cars when I changed it The cars a Chevy Monza 4 cylinder, one of Chevys finest, and a Plymouth Volare station wagon, slant 6. Both of these vehicles ran well over 200,000 miles, the Monza had just shy of 300,000 when some one hit it. The plymouth was mid 200,000, was sold and ran for many more years. Oil does not wear out, especially at 3000 miles when every one seems to think they need to change it. I was "recycling " oil before it was cool.
So... What was your exact reasoning for draining it out of the tow trucks you were using for your business?
I gotta like people going to a Cummins. I own some Cummins stock, not much because even the stock is expensive.
There is lots of truth to 3k oil changes being a thing of the past. Most manufacturers are recommending 7500+ these days and many have semi-intelligent systems that vary the interval according to usage. These intervals are set for the lowest common denominator for what's available off-the-shelf oil wise. 15, 25 or even 50k intervals are possible on better oils but it's a bit foolish to exceed the OEM interval without regular samples for oil analysis to determine if the oil is holding up its end of the bargain or the engine itself is causing issues. 25k intervals are all well and good but how would you know if a minor problem started 5k in and was causing accelerated wear over the life of the engine? For most owners' personal transportation, the cost of repetitive analysis to establish a trend on what's normal for that particular engine and oil is cost prohibitive, hence the relatively short change intervals. Oil does in fact wear out, either by contamination (not the oil's fault) or repeated shearing of the molecular chains. The Total Viscosity Index is usually monitored to ensure the oil is still able to lube properly under load. If you could remove all of the contaminants, engine oil would last just as long as gear lube or transmission/hydraulic fluid does.
My Dodge dealer would agree that it wears out, but a little quicker than what you are saying. Have a Dodge 5500 4x4 and took it in for a tie rod recall. "While" they had it back there they had a list of things that "needed" to be done. List came to $5393.00 with 20.8 hrs labor. They said my oil needed changed which I questioned the writer on. I asked how they knew. He said they tested it or the computer said it was time. I then replied that I normally like to get more the 22 miles on a oil change as I just did it with Rotella before coming in. I then added, "Now you see why everything on your list seems like a crock to me? Just do the warranty work I ask for." He looked like a whooped pup and walked away. They also said my rear diff was leaking and they'd fix that for $175.00. Funny thing is My truck sits in heated storage on concrete and there isn't a single drop under the rear diff. Yes, it does have the right amount in it as I check it twice a year. They didn't want to give me the list of "needed" repairs either but I went over his head and they copied it for me. When the guy brought it out he said if I ever wanted to sell let him know as he never saw such a nice service truck. Such a scam they play on people.
Has a lot to do with management "systems" and how in our drive to get organized and maximize efficiency, we tend to overlook our common sense. Things get repetitive, and as the tech works his/her way down the checklist they have been given for every vehicle that pulls in, they mindlessly check off that "oil change" box because the light is on (but never pull the stick!!!) or "leaking" because they see a slightly wet spot left from when you checked it but never bothered to clean the residue and see if it actually leaks.
Just a note and I haven't read the whole thread That I remember but if you are running a car/truck with cam phaser for variable timing best be changing oil at 3 k. the contaminants picked up will cause problems in that system because of the extreme small orifices and clearances involved. Does oil wear out no not really but the additives do combined with the collected crud suspended in it can spell trouble down the road . Can't compare todays non pushrod engines with those of of years gone by of pushrod design.
Oil today is better than ever, but thermal stress does break oil down. Today's engines run very clean, it's thermal stress that does the oil in before anything else.
Wow!!! Idk who gets paid 8 hours for a 4 wheel break job!!! The rest of the hours seam a little on the high side also
That's not true, people like to say that it is. I run 5-8k oil changes and I did the cam phaser at 190k or so. The money saved from oil changes paid for the sensor/actuator. Oil gets better and better, so does machining and engine building. The slant six was bad azz!