Hi everyone new here, finally got the wife to ok the wood stove... I cam across a local swap and shop for some double wall wood stove piping. The g uy wanted it gone to make room for this shop. He told me to make an offer so I did for 200.00 cdn and he accepted it...ad stated: "I have about 7 36" foot pcs , 5 30" pcs and 1 12" pc. They are 10"od with 8" inner Double lined . Make me an offer.I need room in my shop . Excellent for your shop or cabin ." Ive attached a photo...can you guys tell me if its ok to buy used piping and from your experience if this would work for my house? thanks!!!
First off, welcome aboard t4runner . Well, it's a good deal if it's what your stove needs. I'd check for any obvious signs of breakdown, like seams coming apart. What stove are you looking to get? Does it require 6" or 8" flue? Most stoves only need 6", unless it's an older one or quite large or both. You may have less than optimal results using oversize pipe. Some have done it without issue though. Brand new 36" Class A pipe runs anywhere from $50 to well over $100/piece depending on brand and place of purchase. I need to ask......how much firewood do you have? How long has it been cut, split, and stacked?
Those are pretty hard to destroy without it being obvious. Looks for seems coming apart. If they have been outside and the shell in compromised, one might be obviously heavier than the others from water. Sometimes the conmection "locks" are all bent- but even those are forgiving so it may not be a deal breaker. If they look good I would be interested in two things- 1) are they all compatible and compatible with any thimble and stovepipe you already have? 2) does your stove need 8 inch pipe? If not, I would probably move on. The difference between 6 and 8 inch pipe is huge.
Welcome t4runner, you're gonna like it here, I guarantee it. As papadave indicated, it sounds like a great deal however now your stove will be more than likely dictated by the size of pipe you have. Rest assured great experience on this site will point you in the right direction and possible options. Remember, we like pics, dogs and beer. Nice to meet ya!
Wow thanks for the quick replies! Ill see about seams today. I honestly havent looked for a stove yet as this deal just poped up and knew it was going to be an expensive part of the process. In looking for a stove that i can have in my 4000sqft 3 level home in our rec room in the walkout basement. I live on the island and 30 min away from the pacific energy woodstove plantation. I already have an electric heat pump furnace and simply looking to offset the costs and ideally run the rans to circulate the heat up. Im also thinking of a nice brass grate above the stove to help move the heat to the main floor. Whats better dotch the 8" and go for 6? Any help before i meet to grab these would be great! Also silly qs but what are the seams?
Stoves that use that pipe are not as common as 6 inch, but with the area you want to heat you may very well end up with one. You could get your money back on that pipe any day so it might be good to pick it up with the intention of selling it later if the stove you pick needs a 6 inch flue. Seems are where the pipe meets up with itself. They are sort of crimped together somehow and a good hit can open them up, exposing the insulation and causing a fire hazard.
I'd absolutely buy used if it passed my visual inspection. Looks like you got a smokin' (pun intended) deal there. Where I sit a 48" length of 6" runs about $85 usd.
It's all dependent on the stove. You're sort of on the right track, but putting the horse behind the buggy a little bit. Just because it might be good deal, doesn't mean it's a good deal. There's only a small handful of modern stoves that require 8" pipe. If you aren't looking to heat the whole house, stick with a stove that needs 6" and the pipe to go with it. I'd still like to have some info on your firewood situation. As Unhdsm mentioned, you could grab those pipes, then sell 'em later for the correct size once you get the stove (presuming said stove doesn't require 8"). Regency 5100, and Blaze King King are 2 stoves that mostly require 8". Here are your PE choices....... http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/ Oh, and don't forget, you'll need compatible parts to put all that pipe in. Find out what make that pipe is, then match up all the same make parts.
Thanks! I wasnt sure if you were serious about how much wood i got lol. I dont have any but i plan to keep a few cords at all times once i get up and running! Thanks for all the help. Ill see if i can find out what brand it is and go from there. Prob best to go with 6inch. I have three floors ill need to go up so i was just hoping to save on the pipping. Also whats better piping inside and throguh the roof or straight out and up to the gutter. Thanks for all your help guys!
Through the roof is better because it keeps the pipe within the envelope of the house, it is often cheaper too. That said, the other way will work.
After the first ceiling penetration, everything has to be Class A. Both ways will work, but wow....3 floors. Get some firewood now. Like, right now. For next year, and at least the year after. Hurry up, we'll wait. You can thank me later.
First, welcome aboard! Next, you did get a good deal barring any severe damage/failure of the class A pipe. And then, I traded for some used 8" class A for which I hooked up a little nc-13 (small wood stove). It requires a 6" vent only, but I ran single wall pipe to a 6"-8" adapter once I hit the class A. Works just fine! Would have done it again in a heartbeat if a deal presented itself... Lastly, please....PLEASE start your wood piles now! The wood will need time to get dry (seasoned) and it has to be quite dry for the stove to operate correctly. Can't tell you the number of burners that end up buying an epa wood stove and firewood about the same time and once the install is complete will find every excuse available (but refuse to believe the wood is the problem) as to why the stove doesn't burn well! Once they get some dry wood, that light comes on!!
