So, I'm asking for some empathy and constructive criticism here. I have a Vermont Castings Montpelier insert that I've had for about a year. Last year I was able to get a lot of my firewood from a coworker who had a bunch of downed trees in his backyard. They were there for a while so they were already pretty dry. Anyway, did manage to get through most of that and wound up ordering 1 load of firewood to make it through the end of the season. I managed to get some more from his place last year but then procrastinated on getting more firewood. I've got no excuses for that. It was a hot Summer and I just kept blowing off getting more wood. Also, my source is a local hardwood mill that has a stump pile they will let you cut from. By the end of the Summer, I started going to the mill with a buddy and his pickup and started splitting right away. Now, it's been a long time since I've split my own wood and really had no idea how much drying would be necessary. I had to get a cleaning done before running the insert this year and my guy said at least a year. I was blown away. I obviously don't have that kind of time unless I buy more. Because I'm in a financial bind right now, I'd really rather not get into that. Anyway, here's my pile: So, like I said, it's a hardwood mill in eastern PA so, I was thinking a mix of oak, ash, beech, etc. I did get SOME oak but, unfortunately, there's a lot of poplar in there. Bottom line, what's the worst case scenario? It's not like I cut down live trees or anything but there's no way to know how long any of what I cut has been sitting out. Assuming I burn wood that's not as dry as it should be, am I looking at inefficient burning? creosote buildup? both? chimney fire? Please don't say chimney fire. So, I've learned my lesson and will be cutting and splitting year round but I'd like your thoughts. Thanks in advance!
Inefficient burning, creosote buildup which of course increases the risk of chimney fire. When I burned a stove in my house, I'd cut a year in advance, stacked in a roofed shed, and I'd still clean my chimney at least once during the burning season. The ash will burn fine, but the oak takes a good long while to season.
Possibly. All depends on how not dry we're talking about. He's right. Depending on type of wood, it probably needs 2, and in the case of Oak, 2-4 years to be good. Ash and Maple will dry fairly quick, and so I've been told, so will Beech. Get your hands on that Poplar, and get it split ASAP. Then, go back and get more of whatever you can. I'd stay away from the Oak until you can get caught up, then start adding Oak, while still getting the quicker drying stuff. You're wasting time and energy burning wet wood (in more ways than one), but until you can get on track, do what you gotta' do. Keep a real close eye on the flue though, if you're burning wet wood.
Boy, there are a lot of variables here. 1st off, it is probably a good thing there is not much Oak in there, it takes 2-3 years to dry. The poplar dries pretty quick, won't last as long as some, but it heats better than snowballs! You didn't cut live trees down, but maybe they did. And if it was done in the summer when the sap was up in the tree, then it will take longer to dry...and it drys very little until it is cut, split, and stacked. Yes, yes, and yes. But you can limit the chimney fire risk by inspecting and cleaning the chimney often.
Well, do you have a backup plan for your heat? Oil is pretty cheap right now. It's probably a little late to be splitting any sort of wood you plan to burn this year. Driving through PA (Allegheny) recently I saw tons of dead ash around, lots cut up by the side of the road. If you could get your hands on some of that, you could probably get by. I don't think that oak will do much for you except build creosote your chimney.
Ash will dry in a year or less sometimes. If yu are adding questionable wood make sure you get a good hot fire going before you add it. If you can get yourself some of those compressed sawdust bricks they will average out the moisture content. I used to add them to wood that was not so dry and the creosote was kept down to a minimum. There is also a creosote remover powder which you throw on a hot fire every week or so and it worked well in the past for me. Also, the longer you can keep burning on the hot side 24/7 lowers the risk of creosote buildup. I've burned wood that was not the driest before I came here. Try to stay a few years ahead. Hope that helps. Good luck.
I like Shawn Curry idea about the standing dead ash. I would be all over that if the opportunity presents itself. Also clean your chimney monthly if youre burning wet wood. The peace of mind will be worth the effort.
Tough question. Many of the firewood sellers pull trees right from the stump and run it through a processor and deliver it. Many people burn this that same winter, with likely a poor output. I suggest finding some dry stuff to mix it with, buy some of those sawdust bricks from Tractor supply to mix it, and regardless, try to burn it hot. Pop a few different piece open and check with a MM. I suspect almost everyone on here has been in this predicament due to a busy summer, or a long cold winter. I am not an expert, but I am betting if you blend, or split it smaller to keep the pipes hot, you will be okay.
That's what was funny. When I asked my sweep about buying he said that wasn't reliable either. So, moisture meter it is!
You're lucky your insert isn't a catalyst insert. Unseasoned wood would destroy the catalyst. I second the idea of mixing the compressed sawdust bricks or broken up palletts with some ash. I don't recomend trying to burn green oak! I cut mostly standing dead ash and can say that the upper limbs are reasonably dry. But the main section of the tree, even standing dead for 3 years, is still quite wet. Wood will take much longer to season during the colder and wetter winter months so even poplar may be slow to go. Gas prices are down so use both and write off this winter to a learning experience. Maybe if you plead your case on the Christmas Karma thread a FHC member close to you could help you in your time of need. I could give you near a cord of 3 year seasoned wood, but I'm Kentucky, much too far away to help.
He sounds more knowledgeable than most. Very tough to find a firewood seller who "seasons"/dries wood beforehand. Almost never would be a good guesstimate. It's why I don't rely on someone else to tell me if the wood is dry or not.......I do it myself to make sure it is.
Might check with the mill if the produce finished product - if they do that means they have a kiln on sight to dry down to 6%. Might be able to buy cut offs shorts, or culled material that's been through the kiln process. Which would be much better than pallets, as they are only heat treated to kill bugs, not for drying to a specific level. Bio bricks, Envi blocks ( compressed wood blocks- brand names)are a good way to go mixed with not so good cord wood. Read the labels on other brands to avoid those that have wax in them as a binding agent. Here we have Menards which sells a different brand of blocks ( Green Heat ?)- they are ok and no added binder agents either. I use them in my 30 to reduce the coal load at times. Seem to be as good as the Envi or Bio. 6 blocks in a wrapper about $4 .
glorth2 I second getting a moisture meter, especially considering your situation. Just make sure that you measure the center of a fresh cut split and bring the round in ahead of time so it can warm up first. Meters are set up to give you the most accurate reading at 70f. Edited
What I would do is dependent on if I needed to burn to stay warm. Using An Insert doesn't seem like that's the case. I would just burn what's dry in the coldest months jan-febuary and at night as a secondary heat source. I would get a cheap moisture meter and inventory what I have. I would then use it (moisture meter)to find the most dry stuff I could and process it down into one inch thick stuff. I would bring that inside or atleast in a garage and setup fans on it. I would mix in the one inch stuff with the dry stuff to stretch out the season.
Welcome to the club! Already lots of good information here, as has been stated your wood won't be ideal. Being you're using some mills scraps, they may be a little better than splits....check with a MM... Your post is a prime example of why we preach the 3 Year Plan here at FHC. Try your best to get three years ahead, split and stacked. Once you're three years up, all you really ever have to do is replace one years worth every season. All your wood will have a solid three years to season and dry, and with wood like oak and hard maple, it's absolutely AMAZING how.much more heat you get out of the wood.
