this Red Pine for a while, but the trunk has a couple opposing curves. Not quite sure which way to drop it. Bottom pic is base of tree. Imagine if the pics were lined up so the trunk was too, and you get the issue.
I should probably know this, but where are you in N. Mi.? If you are close enough I have a wirerope long enough to put it where you want it.
Well, either that or I'll use wedgies. I'm in the Atlanta area. No big rush, it's just a tree I've thought of taking down for a while. I can go either left or right (looking at the pic), as I'm standing right in the main path and it's right at the edge of the path. Nothing it can hurt when it drops......except me. I keep thinking I should get a rope to pull trees down, but haven't gotten roun' to it yet.
papadave , get yourself a piece of string 4 to 5 feet in length. Tie something of weight to the end of it (or use a plumb line / same thing) Take a walk around the tree and stop about every 45 degrees and hold up the plum line where it takes up a good portion of the trunk, or back up even further to take in the top. This way you should be able to tell how the tree is leaning. When you get to the point where the tree appears mostly straight while still using the plumb line, that will be where you'd place your face cut, that is if you want to fell it with it's natural lean. I've used a plumb line often especially when I'm working on a slope because sometimes your eyes will play trick on you where what you might think level is and 90 degrees, it truly is not. I would suggest using a bore cut for the back with a mid sized trigger. Get your wedges in place once you do the bore cut, and then make sure your exit is clear and no one is in the felling zone. When it's all clear, pull the trigger and exit. (don't forget to look up periodically through the entire process!) Me, I'd lay it along side the path as in "Directional Felling" with no cables or pull ropes. But then I'm comfortable with my felling skills.
Well don't get your "feed thong" in a bunch.... You want to consider the full extent of the crown. Drop an imaginary plumb line from the center of this and then it's relation to the trunk should reveal the lean direction. As Star Gazer said, you'll want to do this from multiple angles, as you can't really determine forward or back lean from a distance. http://www.isa-arbor.com/myaccount/myeducation/resources/2011-oct-ceuarb.pdf
Thanks Star Gazer , and Shawn Curry . Good info, that I've seen in vids. When I get 'roun to it, that's what I'll do. Feed thong, or any kind of thong, would blind every one.......not in a gooder way.
Can't see the top so no suggestions on where it will fall but it should not be difficult to determine. Not much curve there to be concerned with by the looks from the pictures. As for bore cut, that tree doesn't look like it is big enough to even think about it and I really see no need for that. Red pine is not a difficult tree to fell. Dave, just take a good hard look at that top and the lean and go with it. As for wedges, that's something else I rarely use. If done right, most times they are not necessary. Rather than stop when the back cut is part way through, I still think it is usually best to finish that cut and get it done. I hate seeing a cut part way then stopping to tap a wedge. You can usually learn to guide a tree with just the cut.
just looking at the sweep of the trunk if the pictures are all taken from the same location the weight if the tree is set towards the 8 o'clock range. Looks like a small catface there as well, keep your notch above it
"Catface" you say..... I like that. Not sure what felines have to do with it..... can you expand on that a bit basod?
That one doesnt look bad to fell. Put a notch on the (left side looking at the picture) below where it curves then shoots up. Let the weight of the top bring it down.
I've heard it called both catface and catspaw - used to be they intentionally cut trees to extract sap from pines. The process would result in a series of scars on the tree resembling cats whiskers or claws. The term evolved into describing any injury to a tree's base that has healed over UF-SFRC : 4-H : Catface
