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Woodstock Keystone/Palladian flue size

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by fire_man, Feb 5, 2014.

  1. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Woodstock's literature says to use a 7" liner for the Keystone/Palladian but my understanding is they still allow a 6" liner. Anybody running these stoves with the 6" liner with no problem and if so are they tall chimneys?
     
  2. fox9988

    fox9988

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    I asked WS about the mention of a 7" chimney in their literature. They said the literature just hasn't been updated since the KS and Palladian had been tested and approved for use on a 6" chimney, eventually they intend to get the flue collars cast in 6".
    My KS drafts great on a 6" chimney. 8' of single wall and 8' of class A, straight up. Never a back puff.
    I don't know of anyone using a 7" chimney. If you would like to hear it straight from the horse's mouth call WS, they would be glad to answer any questions you have.
    Todd, Wood Stover and myself are the only KS burners that have made it to the FHC that I'm aware of. The Palladian is much less popular than the KS for some reason, but one of WS's employs has one in his home. Of course it is the same stove as the KS, just different glass.
    Do you have a masonry chimney that you plan to line?
     
  3. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Fire_Man, you have a PH correct? What is your interest in the KS, second stove, cabin, WS fever?
     
  4. Todd

    Todd

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    I run 6" on a 13' chimney, draft is great, no smoke issues. I also used to run a KS on my taller basement 6" chimney with no issues.

    One thing many don't know about is if you go with 6" your front clearances increase to 10" verses the 8" with a 7" flue. WS was suppose to make that change in the manual years ago but haven't got around to it.
     
  5. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Yes I have the Progress but need more BTU's. The house is 2400 sq ft with tons of glass. Rooms furthest from the stove get down to the mid 50's on cold days. We have a fireplace at the other end of the house that would be perfect to even out the heat load if we installed another woodstove.

    There are clearance issues because of a wood mantel that I need to work out - I will post more about this - I am scratching my head how to resolve the clearance issues.
     
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  6. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Yup I caught that, Todd. WS mentioned this in our correspondence. A 6" flue is making me have to build out the front hearth way further than I would like, so I may be forced to go with 7" liner. The chimney is really tall, like 25+ feet so 6" might have drafted too well anyway. I am still in decision mode.
     
  7. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Here is a picture of the intended location. I'm worried about clearance to the top horizontal wood mantel. The rear heat shield allows 12" of clearance but it can be measured from the corners.

    diagram1.jpg

    Jan2014_.jpg
     
  8. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Fireman would it be possible to remove that trim around the fireplace? I had a similar setup on my fireplace except it wasnt as nice looking it was that gross stuff from the 70s early 80s. I removed everything on the outside and inside that was combustible and within the clearances then put it back together with metal studs and tiled over everything. I now have a couple extra inches of clearance all the way around and it only cost a couple hundred dollars.
     
  9. fire_man

    fire_man

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    It would definitely be possible, but my wife would be very :(
     
  10. Woody Stover

    Woody Stover

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    I've got 16', never any problems with 6". Stove is rear-vented, 7-6" reducer, tee, liner. I've got a key damper in the tee take-off but haven't needed it.
     
  11. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Woody - why did you sell the fireview? How does it compare with the keystone?
     
  12. fox9988

    fox9988

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    FV vs KS. That is a decision I wrestled with. Todd has also burned both, I put the question to him. Im sure Woody has some insight.
     
  13. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Yup, I'd also like to hear from Todd on his take on the two stoves. I think he sold his FV.

    The KS is slightly smaller but has the benefit of an ashpan.
     
  14. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Ash pan plus larger glass is why I went with the KS. I also prefer the less Victorian look and the KS has plenty of firepower for me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  15. Todd

    Todd

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    I loved the Fireview but when I bought my first Keystone I loved it even more mainly because the ash pan and I also found I could get similar burn times and just about the same heat output. The view of the fire is also better.

    A buddy of mine was looking at the Fireview and WS had a few refurb Keystones so I sold my buddy the Fireview and bought another Keystone. Win win for both of us.
     
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  16. Woody Stover

    Woody Stover

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    I got the Ks first but started thinking I needed more power. The Fv definitely has a bit more @ss, due to more mass and more box (1.8 usable to Ks 1.4.) What I shoulda done was weatherize first, then see where I stood, because I ended up there anyway. Oh well, my BIL/SIL needed a good stove, so it all worked out. :fire:

    As far as function and style, the Ks grated ash system is great (I'm a ash pan convert since the Dutchwest.) Echoing Todd, the big glass is great for seeing what the fire is doing. But the Fireview has a unique look. May not be everyone's cup of tea but I think it's gorgeous. And grabbing the cat out takes all of ten seconds.
     
  17. fire_man

    fire_man

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    Good inputs from everybody, thanks
    I'm leaning towards the keystone because 1. It has an ashpan 2. its a second stove so I don't need much horsepower - just a supplement for the Progress.

    I may be forced to go with the more expensive 7" flue because the chimney is close to 30 feet tall, 6" might draft too well. Plus like Todd said, I need more front clearance with the 6" pipe.
     
  18. fox9988

    fox9988

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    I'm not sure how much difference the draft would be with a 6" vs 7" liner. My KS is absolutely controllable on my 16' chimney. I can go from a box full of flame to a few lazy secondaries in a few seconds every time, shortly after that the box will go black. If your 30' chimney overdrafts, I would install a key damper in the pipe (if it would be accessible).
     
  19. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    I understand that mine wanted the mantle gone but she liked the sides it was similar to yours. When I explained to her what I needed to do to make everything safe she said ok that sounds good then when I ripped the mantle and sides off the wall she got upset. I didnt understand I thought I had explained it to her but apparently she thought I was leaving the sides oh well theyre in the dump now and Ive found a piece of trim to put up that will look good and still be outside of the clearances.
     
  20. fire_man

    fire_man

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    I'm still trying to figure out if there is a way to leave all the wood trim intact and still meet clearance requirements. I hate to gut the mantel, it really does look kind of nice.
     
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