I am hearing that some chains supposedly helps to reduce kickback but they reduce cutting. I thought kickback happened when the tip of the bar came into contact. I try to be careful to not let the tip of the bar come into contact, I check before cutting, etc. Maybe I need to learn more about kickback; I want to be safe while operating the saw. Should I use the reduced kickback chains or not? How does the reduce kickback chains work?
I use the Oregon LPX, lower kickback with no noticeable performance loss Work : with a hump on the link that raise up so the cutter can't take a big bite when the chain goes over the nose of the bar Important !!!!!!!! It don't stop "kickback" just reduces it.
What are you currently using? I went from a "low-kickback" Vanguard chain to a "non-safety" LPX chain. How much difference is there? I can't really say, they both cut fine when sharp, and I have never gotten kickback with either. So I run them both, but will continue with the LPX as I buy new chains, as I think it does cut a little better. YMMV.
Some chain info here Saw chain common cutter types used by wood cutter here. | Firewood Hoarders Club
Yea LPX is yellow lablel, not low kick back , but lower kickback than LGX Green label chain, low kickback If a concern at all, use the green label low kickback. Most of the box stores carry them Like said, not a lot of performance loss, The full chisel types are faster cutting when doing a lot of cutting & not Safety chain. Considered Pro chain
OK, visited the link and I also read that some are harder to sharpen; so that is a factor to consider.
Go to the Oregon chain selector page Put in your saw, ,size etc Oregon Hand Held Chain Saw Replacement Parts
That is a reduced kickback chain. One of the better types too. Some are horrid to cut with if you are used to standard chain but others you can hardly tell the difference. For you, semi-chisel, either in reduced kickback (green label) or standard variety would be a good choice. Not the absolute fastest cutting but they tend to hold an edge longer and get a lot of work done with minimal maintenance.
I use the more agressive chains on my461. Kickback happens, but for me it is being aware and keeping a solid grip on the saw because it can happen anytime. The bigger the saw the harder the kick, specific to horsepower/cc. Good strong grip, safety gear, highly unlikely you will get hurt. I do seem to think the more aggressive chains, the quicker the cut though.
I would suggest a couple things: 1. No matter how you try, kickback will happen, and generally when you least expect it. IME 2. Low-kickback chains, banana bars, chain brakes and other tangible stuff can boost your odds some, of an ER visit. 3. Best protection going involves your mandatory practices, meaning: Always hold front saw handle with opposed-thumb, locked left elbow and straight left arm, always with right-handed grip, Always stand off to side of saw with feet spread, so you can read stuff on the bar- stay out of the plane of the chain. This is for rotational kickback. Keep all of your pieces clear of the rear of the saw. This is for straightback kickback. Not likely as deadly, but hurts some bad. DAMHIKT Always keep at least 3 felling/bucking wedges on your person. As possible, minimize exceptions to the stuff in item 3, but sometimes you gotta make exceptions. Get lazy, you may get hurt. It's your ess. Notice that I made no mention of safety chain poo? Kludge-analysis wastes my time.
Well said and all good points!!! As much as I hate to admit it, I was undercutting a hickory two weekends ago and the 461 bit and kicked back. It hit me just below the belt, but above any danger areas. I was close the power head, so the chain break didn't react. Hurt a lot for about 20 seconds, and the embarrassment lasted for an hour. Hang on tight and use the rules above and you went end up with a bruised area
I agree with the sentiment expressed by CTYank and Woodsnwoods. All types of chain can kick back. Your best defense against it is maintaining a firm, proper grip on the handlebars. When it happens, you'll feel the saw jerk but you'll be able to stop it from rotating back towards you as long as it doesn't get ripped out of your hands (due to improper grip).
