In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Napoleon NPS45 - Control Board issue

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by Geek, Oct 26, 2016.

  1. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    First of all, is there a "Search" option on these forums? Maybe I can't see it.....:bug:

    The heat up/down buttons have become hard to press, such that I pressed so hard that it created a short circuit but thank God nothing happened and the unit seems to still operate. The below pics show the little transformer a bit black with the short circuit.

    I removed the side panel and I can see that this side of the board is a bit away from the button, sort of warp a little bit, I unplugged the unit and then pressed that side of the board firmly to be close to the button and that seemed to be clicking much better.

    I can remove the board easy, and then try to re-shape it a bit but I am afraid to brake any of the soldered components.
    Take a look at these 2 pics.

    Should I take the chance, remove it and bend it straight?
     

    Attached Files:

    ivanhoe and savemoney like this.
  2. heat seeker

    heat seeker

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    305
    Location:
    Connecticut North Central
    I would not try to reshape the board, you may damage it. I'd try to be a bit imaginative and try to secure the board so that it's held flat - maybe some wire ties, etc., strategically placed.
     
  3. jtakeman

    jtakeman Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Messages:
    12,194
    Likes Received:
    54,972
    Location:
    NW CT foothills
    Upper right corner under your screen name is the search bar. A bit tough to see.......

    Capture.JPG
     
    ivanhoe, Geek and savemoney like this.
  4. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    yeah, that search is like begging not to be bothered.....lol
     
    jtakeman and ivanhoe like this.
  5. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    My plan with the board is to spray cleaner, like WD40, around the push buttons from the back and clean them up.
     
    ivanhoe likes this.
  6. imacman

    imacman

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2013
    Messages:
    6,599
    Likes Received:
    27,373
    Location:
    Denver, NC
    Loosen the screws holding the board, but don't have to remove.....just enough to lift the board slightly. Try putting 2-3 layers of masking or electrical tape on each button to "tighten up" the space?
     
    ivanhoe, gbreda, Geek and 2 others like this.
  7. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    I think that is one of the options.... right now I just removed the side panel again, although I lubed the buttons a bit, the problem is that the buttons are a bit far from the oard, if IK press the board gently on that side in the direction of the buttons then I can press the buttons and the clicking is heard.
    So, I am going to try electrical tape to build that up a tiny bit, and see what happens.
     
    slvrblkk, imacman and ivanhoe like this.
  8. gbreda

    gbreda

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    7,494
    Likes Received:
    37,140
    Location:
    NH
    If the buttons work properly when pressed, then yes either shimming the board or adding to the buttons would likely help.

    The bigger question is was it always like this (probably not) and how did it warp? Did the transformer overheat for some reason? If so, is that an issue waiting to happen that should be corrected?
     
    slvrblkk, imacman and ivanhoe like this.
  9. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    I shimmed it last night by placing a small cut out from a credit card plastic, worked really good so far.
    How did it warp? Well, not sure but maybe because I was pushing very hard on the buttons of the control panel and with time the board itself kept going away, the warp is very subbtle but enough that the green little pins are away of the metal (where you press the buttons).

    The fuse never got blown out even there was a shot circuit a few days ago.
     
    gbreda, slvrblkk and imacman like this.
  10. jtakeman

    jtakeman Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Messages:
    12,194
    Likes Received:
    54,972
    Location:
    NW CT foothills
    The film covering my control panel seems to have gotten stiffer with age. I might need to shim the buttons or figure out how to get the film to soften up some.

    I pushed the on button so hard it broke throw the film................ :emb:
     
  11. gbreda

    gbreda

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    7,494
    Likes Received:
    37,140
    Location:
    NH
    Stove abuse !!! To the gallows you go, next round is on you :p
     
    imacman, slvrblkk and jtakeman like this.
  12. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    Houston...we have a problem.

    I have no idea whether this is related to the board or not, and I forgot to report this issue since the unit has been off for a couple days...BUT the igniter is NOT working on the unit.
    Once I made the little mod and added a tiny piece of card in the back to address the buttons not working, the unit worked ok for a day I think and then started showing weird signs when it went off suddenly (even though it had flames and unit running), I turned it back on but then it went off.

    So, last night I checked and realized the igniter is not lighting up, hence the unit going off.
    Also, tried pressing the ON button nothing worked, I unplugged and re-plugged it back to the wall and then pressed the ON button and it did go to the startup cycle, but again no flames because the igniter not working..

    What the heck...!!!!! :hair:

    Thoughts?
     
  13. heat seeker

    heat seeker

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    305
    Location:
    Connecticut North Central
    Are you sure a button isn't being "pressed" by the shims?
     
  14. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    My plan is to go back and remove the shim, but why the igniter?
     
  15. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    BTW - the shim is only on one side (left) of the board and it only covers the 3 buttons to the left.....heat up/down and auger I think.
     
  16. heat seeker

    heat seeker

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    305
    Location:
    Connecticut North Central
    No doubt you have reset the control by unplugging it for a few minutes...:whistle:
     
  17. imacman

    imacman

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2013
    Messages:
    6,599
    Likes Received:
    27,373
    Location:
    Denver, NC
    Could just be a coincidence. Find the ignitor feed wires, disconnect from board, connect 120v using jump cord (properly insulated, of course!), and connect to wall outlet.....if it glows brightly, she's good. Or remove from stove & test....occasionally only 1/2 the ignitor fails, but still may not light stove.
     
  18. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    Just removed the shim, plugged unit back to wall, turned on but igniter not glowing....:hair:

    Pete, not sure I exactly know how to do what you're saying; I do not even know what is that wire for the igniter but guess I can look it up online.

    When I shimmed the board I also removed the prong connector on the bottom of board to better work on it, but I plugged it back in and secured it.

    Crying out loud here...!!!
     
  19. Geek

    Geek

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    262
    Likes Received:
    601
    Location:
    06770
    BTW - can I manually ignite this using some sort of gel or something, maybe just light a piece of paper and throw it in there?
     
  20. jtakeman

    jtakeman Moderator

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Messages:
    12,194
    Likes Received:
    54,972
    Location:
    NW CT foothills
    Paper won't work. Propane/map gas torch or the gel is the ticket. In a pinch you could use isopropal or other alcohol to soak some pellets in a cup with. Pretty much whats in the gel. Don't use gas or other petroleum.

    Start the stove and let pellets drop until they stop. Open door hit with torch. About a minute or so to get em roasting. Close door and it should kick off. Or add gel(or soaked pellets) in place of torch and light with match.

    Often after removing with the molex plug. The wires slip out of the plug itself(not enough to fall out, But enough to loose contact). After you plug the connector back into the board. It sometimes needs to have each wire pushed back into the connector. Hope it helps.
     
    gbreda, Geek and imacman like this.