Will 50 gauge chain be adequate on 60cc saw with 18 inch bar or does that size saw need heavier chain?
3/8 x .050 is a good size chain for most any saw. More type cutter choices than the other sizes & pretty easy to find
I use 3/8 pitch .050 gauge chain on every bar under 36".The 36" & 42" are also 3/8 but .063 gauge. The Mac 125 is .404 pitch .063 gauge.Even have a 20" bar with 1/2" pitch on a late '50's small gear drive Mac 35.Chain almost new,bar equally spotless.
What about .325 x .50? Never quite understood the all the pros and cons of different pitch and gauge. If someone would take some time to educate me I would appreciate it.
The chain gauge refers to the thickness of the drivers, the larger the gauge the larger the bar groove which in turn allows more oil to be delivered to the end of the bar. Typically the larger the pitch the larger the size of the cutter.
I was just talking to my Stihl dealer the other day about this. The narrower the chain the easier it is to cut the wood. The Stihl 017 uses 3/8 lopro in .043 gauge because it doesnt have alot of hp. The only tradeoff is durability,obviously the wider the stronger it will be. I have more to say but cant unscramble whats in my head to type.
Actually a wider gauge does not necessarily translate into a wider kerf as drivers can be stepped down above the area that rides in the bar groove.
Based on first two responses .50 gauge is adequate. Would I be giving up cutting capacity with .325 as opposed to 3/8 pitch?
.325 is usually thinner kerf than 3/8 (.375). .o50 wide grove in the bar is good for either. Pretty standard on most saws now. Lots more choices with .050 , Stihl chain chart; 2nd # is Gauge (more .050 /3s on the chart ) :
Stihl chain : http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/ Lots of .050", .325 x .050 RS or RS3 a good common full chisel chain for firewood cutting.
Some specialty chains out there. What are you using it for? Few box stores sell the full chisel chain. like the Stihl RS or the Oregon LGX, Saw shops carry them. Faster cutting in clean wood. RS3 & LPX have safety hump on the Drive link, full chisel , just as fast cutting with some reduced kick back safety built in. Oregon chain : 20 LPX full chisel .325 x .050 Has the safety nub on the drive link to help reduce kick back. Similar to the Stihl RS3 link: http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/chain/20_21_22LPSuper20.htm Hope this is helping
Using for general firewood cutting and farm use. Son is wanting a 60cc saw and am trying to use same chain on as many saws as we can to help keep life as simple as possible.
Same for me. New & old saw (back up) the same, 20" (72 drive links) x 3/8" (.375) x .050". 3/8" X .050 X 20" most common size that everyone has on the shelf (in a pinch, can get a new chain just about anywhere.) And you have several cutter types to chose form. I use & like the Stihl RS, & the Oregon LGX & LPX, full chisel, fast cutting , (Saw shops usually) Oregon 72DPX semi chisel for dirty, dusty conditions or the Stihl RM3, they stay sharper longer in dirty conditions than the full chisel. Usually you can get a bar & drive rim to match up to your other saw if buying new. If you get a saw that's different than yours , New bar & drive sprocket or Rim for your saw can usually be changed to match his.
Yes.. But the difference is not earth shattering... 3/8 is a touch wider, but also has a taller profile on the cutter. With ample power, 3/8 will always cut faster than .325... But... On a stock 60cc saw, in normal cutting conditions, the difference is so small, it's best to just go with what you run the most of. Interchangeability is worth a lot to me...
.050 is perfect !! As for the durability of .325 or 3/8 lp.............I have never hit a rock or nail that breaks a chain . Keep your chain out of harms way...and it will stay durable I have used both for years...especially the small gauge .325 . Id say anything over 60cc ...you can start getting into 3/8 . Thats just my opionion though .
I am no expert, but one insight I've had is that at a given engine RPM, a larger pitch results in the chain moving faster. Double the pitch, and you have the length of chain associated with one drive link. So, an 8-pin sprocket pulls a 0.325 chain 5.2 inches per revolution, whereas it pulls a 3/8 chain 6 inches (about 15% faster than 0.325), and a 0.404 chain 6.464 inches (about 8% faster than 3/8, or 24% faster than 0.325). If the RPM is constant and the teeth all cut to the same depth then those percentages would reflect relative cutting speed, but cut depths can vary, and since a larger-pitch chain demands more work from the saw per revolution, the saw might just bog down and refuse to do it; the big chain is only cuts faster if your saw has the torque to pull it. But then if the chain is too much for your saw, you can compensate by getting a sprocket with fewer teeth.
Or use a skip chain Good points. Several ways to maximize your saw's performance. The chain is the easiest, match it up to your saw & needs. Keep your chain sharp !
I'm trying standardize my chain selection to 3/8" .063". I'm almost there now except a couple bars. I've never broke 3/8" .050" on ported 90cc and 120 cc saws.
