I made permanent distance marks on the handle of my sappie, use a lumber crayon to mark the log or a hatchet if I forget or lose the crayon.
if you got a small stove it does..nothing worse than when reloading and you throw in a split and cant get your door to close, now the split is on fire and your frantically pushing said split around with coal rake to try and get door closed with no avail. so have to remove the split from stove and take outside without setting smoke detectors off or stinking up house....been there
For serious bucking projects I've come to appreciate the Mingo Marker. Just index it to the end of the log and start walking. Reindex it whenever needed. Orange or green marker paint is really purdy, and very visible. One side-benny: the paint works great on ice and snow. Also, been known to just walk a log with tape and tire-crayon or chalk, whatever's on hand. Takes seconds. Saves minutes spent on recuts later.
I like to do the waltz as mentioned earlier, but after a few rounds, that perfect length get stuck in my minds eye, and I can eyeball fairly close for the majority of the splits. I also fall in line with your thinking., some long, some short, no matter as it all balances out. I'd tend to think getting all ocd over the perfect length would start to hinder productivity, so in the end, you might have 5 % (or not, some are short, some are long right) less wood, but you took half as long to process the rounds. Another interesting point about different size splits, is it helps some stoves to really load up. My Englander-17 can take 17's at the bottom, but they need to go in angled and nose up to straighten out for the bottom row. The wood in the middle or top row can't do that, as it may hit the baffle and not fit. So a few 14-15" pieces up top avoid that problem. Just one guys opinion.
I've always used a stick to measure and mark. Backwoods Savage had a great invention. His stick was several feet long and marked at his length. So you could Mark 4 at a time on a log, then move down, Mark another 4, move, mark, etc. Much faster! Here is a few of my early stacks. I don't keep Wood in the rows behind the garage now. That is the garden area now.
Thanks DexterDay. I've made many over the years. I've used limbs, 1 x 1, 1 x 2, etc. Even used old trip pieces. Here is the one Dexter mentioned. The markings don't show up really good in the pictures but it is a 4' stick with 2 markings so that you mark 3 logs @ 16" each. I use a marking crayon but sometimes just use an axe and simply draw a line with the axe. I've also been known to use my finger if there is an inch or so of snow on the log but that doesn't happen often. Simply put, it is a cheap marker that you can make without pulling a dollar bill from your wallet. Does that make me cheap?
No. Think it was 3 or 4 mil plastic. It's been about 4-5 years now since I took that pic. I keep it all in the back now. Those 6 stacks are now 2 wide x 3 deep. Just snapped this one.
Some long and some short is good for me loading too. Different spots need different lengths. I cut big wood a bit shorter to make moving it easier.
Mine either. There usually leaning over and about to fall, no matter how straight they start they always end up leaning g it seems.
i just file a mark into my bar and measure it from the last cut, there is always something on the bark to use as a mark. I would just lose anything else on the cutting site
I use a 24 inch long 1x1 inch piece of ash. I need 22 inch wood, so I put a screw in each end that sticks through about a half inch. I scribe it and run down the log making scribes. No paint, nothing left behind, works in allweather, and it's durable and easy to store. Plus it cost about $0.10. Food for thought
I ordered one of these last week. https://www.amazon.com/The-MINGO-in...?ie=UTF8&qid=1476050088&sr=8-1&keywords=mingo