Which stove?

Hello everyone. I'm new here...fairly new to woodburning...growing up we heated with wood but the stoves in my dad's house are old 1976 casting Vermont Castings defiants which I know are a completely different animal than the new EPA stoves. I moved an old double wide (1979) on to my 12 acre lot and am in the process of fixing up the place. I want to add a wood stove though and was wondering what a good cheaper(less then $1000) stove would be for me. I have r28 in my skirting wall and am putting all new insulation in my exterior walls...I have 7 ft ceilings though and am not comfortable with putting more insulation in the attic because the roof trusses in those old MH s are made out of 2x2s. My kitchen living and dining areas are all nice and open but the bedrooms and bathrooms are down a hallway. The house is approx. 1400sf. I want to get good heat but don't want to be cooked out of the living areas either...any suggestions on how to circulate the air to the bedrooms would be appreciated. I was looking at the wood pro 2.6. will this be a good stove choice?

 

Not sure about the wood pro.... The cheap champion around here seems to be the NC-30. It is generally available at the big department stores. As for circulation, the best way is to put a floor fan by the bedrooms and push the cold air to the wood stove. With a mobile home, there are tight regulations for wood heat.

Oh, and welcome!

 

The best you can do is put a fan in the doorway of the furthest room (on the floor, blowing towards the stove room). There will still be a difference in temps between the stove room and the far rooms no matter what though.

 

NC-30 and the Drolet Myriad are both great stoves at the same price.

 

first check your insurance and state regs carefully.. second I believe England nc30 is mobile home approved... just so you know.. the chimney and hearth are going to cost at least as much as the stove.. start getting wood ready now for when you get rest done it might be dry.. and welcome aboard.. wittyphrase

 

I am living in a Doublewide manufactured home and have just installed a new Madison. The Madison stoves does not require the high R value the 30-NC requires; it only needs ember protection. I made my own pad/hearth; I posted about the pad so you can find that and see how easy and cheap. The Madison line is also mobile home approved; I hate that term; my house in on a foundation and is certainly not mobile. Lowe's Home Improvement sells the Madison line of stoves; OH, made by the same people that make the 30-NC. I like the nice big window on my stove. I do have the smaller trusses in the roof and I wanted to centre the stove between two windows so I went through the wall. It is cheaper building the chimney if you don't have to buy the rather expensive; over priced is my opinion; through-the-wall-kit and you have one less 90 which is important for draft.

Can you show where you will be placing the stove?

The layout for my house does not have a long hallway and I can heat my bedroom and bathroom to a nice temperature.

If you buy from Lowe's or Home Depot; look on ebay for people selling the 10% discount cards; I paid $4.95 for a card that got me another 10% off my Madison stove from Lowe's.

 

The Madison also has good clearances as well; you will need to think about that as well; the wall behind my Madison does not get hot, the built-in heat shield does the trick; the stove pipe does wall the wall a bit and I would like to go to double wall stove pipe to see if it would help; however, double wall stove pipe is pricey stuff.

Welcome to FHC, you won't find a nicer bunch of folks anywhere; they have really help me out a lot.

 

The Madison can not be found on their website; however, you can get the owner's manual online at Lowe's.

 

If it makes a difference, the Wood Pro models are made in China; England Stove Works, maker of 30-NC and Madison are made in the USA in Virginia.

 

The NC-30 is a great stove and can be had for that price point.

I suspect the Madison is a good one as well, we just don't hear as much about it. Similar price. It is a little smaller than the 30, but as Kimberly said, it has lower clearance requirements. If I didn't need the size of the 30, I would look at the Madison or the NC-13. The 13 might be marginal for your neeeds, others can comment better on that.

Keep in mind that you are looking at about $1000 or more for stove pipe and chimney, if you go with double wall stainless steel. I have about $1800 into my NC-30 installation, for a basic DIY install, all components new and good quality. I think you will also have to use outside air for the doublewide installation, which adds a little expense and a little more complexity. Not much, but some.

 

Not sure; they sell two different sizes of the Madison, I got the larger one. It may be a tad; I will look in the manual and get the dimensions.

 

Only if they inspect. I call the planning board and they told me no permit required. I have not installed the OAK; don't own it as of this time. I am still debating installing it. I think the claim is that without it the stove would use up the air in the house; bullchit; unless you super seal a house it leaks air. I have read all the topics on this.

 

Madison I own: OK, I don't see firebox dimensions, the outside dimensions include the heat shields. They list the capacity of the firebox in pounds, that would need to be with a specific wood I would think. Anyway, 23 lbs for the firebox.
Width: 27 3/8
Depth: 23 3/4
Height: 34 1/4 (from base to top of stove excluding flue)
Height of base: 12 1/2 (so that can be subtracted from above)

Don't see a mention of log length; I could measure that tomorrow.

I like the nice large rectangular window better than the arched on the 30-NC.

 

I had a 1980 ish moble home set up similar to you bedrooms off narrow hall. stove was rated at 1100sqft ( about 2 cu. ft.)- it was of secondary burn construction. This was all prior to any epa meddling. National code reqiures OAK in a mobile - not here to argue pro/cons. ok so your heating system is probably very simple and similar to what mine was zero clearance down draft gas furnace feeding a single run the length of the trailer centered underneath. The water lines run right next to the air runs- mostly to keep them from freezing ( well 98% of the time) You will be in better shape with the insulated skirting. Wiring runs thru ceilings( ya when putting in the flue the guy cut thru a line- exciting) My roof was just a slightly rounded top of sheet metal, and like yours everything was 2x2 construction, floors were particle board with a plastic sheathing over the top and then various floor coverings. Underneath nothing directly on the particle just what they call the belly skirt which is below ducts and lines with bats on insulation on top of it( what I didn't know was that mine was sliced up and open in areas as water line had been repaired ) you do need to keep some warm air flowing though those ducts in sub freezing temps or risk freezing a water line- which will then, due to Murphy, will spray all over the particle board. water and particle board not a good combination. A couple computer fans on a register pulling air out of ducts in stove area will solve most of this. Might even eliminate then need for a floor fan at end of hallway. I went straight up and out about 10 ft total with the flue, worked just fine. Stove was about middle of unit still getting heat back down that narrow hall way was a pia. Your unit is larger than mine was ( 900sq ft)

 

First off thanks for all the responses...

So I thought the 15 ft was from the floor the stove was sitting on to the top of the spark arrestor? That would mean for my setup that I would have approx. 5 ft of chimney sticking up. Was gonna build a chimney box for 2 ft of it so I'd end up with 3 ft exposed which is code right? The chimney box would be the tallest combustible wall within 10 ft. Unless I frame it with steel and cover it with masonry board.

Kimberly I'm putting my stove on an interior wall so going through the wall won't work. I plan on for the wall around the stove to put sheet metal up, fir it out with steel studs with fiberglass insulation, cement board and then tile or brick or whatever I decide. The hearth I'm gonna cut the existing flooring out and put some extra framing in then lay 2x's in in place of the sub floor, put sheet metal down, cement board, and then tile. Would this all be up to code? I want it strong. They put particle board floors in this place and I've been patching and patching. And yes the made in USA makes a difference. I guess I need to find someone local that has the nc-30 I like to put my hands on something before I buy. As far as the OAK I'm definitely gonna put it in. If I got carbon monoxide poisoning and the insurance companies found out it wasn't installed they would not pay up for medical bills.

I have two duct trunks i was planning on just leaving the fan on the furnace running, which would help keep warm air flowing through the duct work. Would this make the house feel cold? Idk my father says it will and he knows that everyone knows that he knows everything.

 

wittyphrase , welcome aboard.
Lots of good thoughts here. I can attest to the 30NC being a good bang for the buck, as I have one.
If the MH is less than adequately insulated, go to a bigger stove (Myriad...30NC). My house is just over 1200 sq ft, and the 30 sometimes struggles a bit because the attic insulation isn't great. If there are any air leaks in the house, get those sealed up as best you can.
As bushpilot said, the flue system can be expensive, but if you use Selkirk from Menard's, instead of Duravent or some others, in can be less than $1000, by at least a couple hundred.
Make sure you adhere to combustible clearances......they'll be in the manual of any stove you buy. They aren't all the same.
We can help with all that if needed when the install is happening.
As has been mentioned, the 30 has a pretty steep hearth R value requirement. Something else that hasn't been mentioned is that you may have an issue with the ceiling height and clearances is you go out the wall. The usual CTC for single wall pipe near the ceiling is 18". Again, it should be in the manual.
Also, check with your insurance co.

Firewood. Get it now. If you don't already have some dry firewood, this winter will probably be an experience in wood burning heII, especially with a newer stove.
Water doesn't burn, and freshly cut wood has lots of water in it.

 

You can find the Madison and 30-NC manuals online. Look through them, and read what clearances to combustibles they require. If you can make that without protection, then all is well, nothing fancy needed. If you cannot make that, don't be tempted to creatively engineer your own solution without knowing the requirements. The wall protection requirement involves a fireproof shield, with a 1" airspace behind it. The 30 requires R2 "insulation" between it and flammables on the floor, your design might meet that with the cement board, but you need to figure that out to know for sure.

 

Guess I don't type fast enough.
Well, the distance from the combustible surface of the wall will vary depending on the stove. A simpler method would be to use the steel furring to create a 1" air gap behind the Wonderboard or Durock. No insulation needed. Leave a space at the bottom at the floor and another at the top of the spacer and any heat behind it will be convected up and out. Cool air in low, and warm air up and out.
Again, I type too slow. Greg nailed it on the CTCs. If you can meet those without the wall protection, then no need to go through all that.
The 30 flue system is measured from the floor to the cap. 15' is suggested as the minimum, but some have gotten by with less as long as the 10'-3'-2' rule is followed.
Other stove flue systems are measured from the top of the stove.
Again, read the manual of any stoves you plan to purchase before you go building anything. Might not need it, or might do it all wrong.

 

Firebox sizes (from memory) Madison = 2.4 cu-ft, 30NC = 2.8 cu-ft? The 30 claims a larger heating capacity in both sq-ft of living space and BTUs. I believe either will prove capable heaters, I bought the 30 because I could practically steal it at the time. I probably would have bought it even if I could have bought the Madison for the same price, as I need lots of heat.

Frankly, the 30 is the only stove I really considered, as it was similar in size and output to what it was replacing, and the price was right. There are lots of good stoves out there. But for a sub $1000 unit, you would be hard pressed to beat any of the stoves mentioned in this thread. Look them over, find the right size and features you want, make sure you can work within clearance requirements, and do it.

Once you have the stove, folks here are real good at helping sort out the details of the installation.