We've had our Bloo for 10 years now. She's almost white now, her hips and joints are bothering her and she's on a continuous diet, but as a Beagle, she's a puppy at heart. I always smile when I see a Beagle or a Basset Hound for that matter.
Looks like we have a Fischer pro, so I have a question! My dad has a Fischer, not sure if it's an xl(early 80s?(, I can get a pic, but the hinges on the doors are worn so they wobble, if rough on them, slip off the spines. What is a good fix for that? Drill with sleeved bolts? Reweld and reshape?(I'm a competent welder)
Well, you can buy new hinge pins usually found on e-bay all the time. The easiest way is to take the doors off and see if the holes are elongated. If they are, you can do two things; Drill oversize and put in the next size up or weld up the holes and re weld the hinges on the stove. The doors are cast so have fun with that! I'm a competent welder also and my opinion is best leave the doors alone. Also, Fisher made 9 different stoves so my guess is if it's an XL, you would know it, There very large and rare! Snap a pic..I can tell you what it is.
Not an xl, not a Fischer! Eggs on my face! I just looked at it. Bullard double door with the big old eagle on top. My dad was asking me about it, has the same cast hinges and pins, so the same GOOD info should apply! Thanks a bunch!
Only chemically remove paint. Wipes right off with lacquer thinner. Most XL raised surfaces were not polished. They are rough cast. The chips showing where it is supposed to be painted look like plating. Sanding only touches the high spots removing plating. Original; all other models have polished smooth raised portions. If that were a polished door like below, any sand paper would ruin it. Only metal polish for precious metals such as gold, silver, nickel, brass..... Grandma replated before paint. This shows the rough background vs. polished raised surfaces. You then paint entire door and wipe raised polished surfaces with mineral spirits to remove uncured paint. Then protect with metal polish. Polished and replated XL before paint including hinge pins, draft caps and bolts; I prefer Maas Metal Polish since it leaves a protective residue.
9 different stoves??? Here is up to '85 made by C.E. Smith Co (known as CESCO) that didn't make all models. The 5 basic models evolved as; I without shields (pre 1977), II with shields shown in revised '77 drawings , III Fireplace Series only (1979 up), III Cathedral doors with glass after 1980 including Inserts, IV Cathedral doors with later style glass in Fireplace Series including Inserts, VI Bear Series with Cathedral doors (UL listed one piece body with rear and bottom shields) and a VII that may have never been mass produced. Don't forget the "The Flame" or TF-88 which was the only EPA certified stove and Insert that passed emissions. (made in 2 locations) The confusing part is all basic models were also made in the old style with angle iron corners without the UL listing. They were offered $100 cheaper by most fabricators for hearth installations where clearance and shields were not an issue. So double all the later basic models as well. So you can see how you can have a Grandma or Grandpa I, II ,III, Glass III or Glass IV or Bear Series Papa, Mama, Baby I,II, or VI. All glass models were also available in "Brass and Glass". The pedestal type with removable pedestal Certified for mobile home use are also called Convertible. The XL in Utah was ahead of its time introduced in 1978 which all other models eventually changed to the design for the UL listed 1980 models. Furnace is known as the "Home Stove" and Cub is a smaller Insert. Polar Bear is a Zero Clearance Insert for manufactured fireplace having a much larger air space around firebox than a normal Insert. Here is a price sheet from GA showing UL Listed style as well as unlisted models still produced. Back then it wasn't necessary to have all stoves UL listed for insurance and codes. To peak your curiosity here is the door seal channel sizes showing the same smaller doors for Honey Bear also fit the PANDA ! This door seal frame cheat sheet is also good for screen sizing. This was taken from drawings so welders had a quick reference when changing models in a run. How many models was that ?? Forgot the European models and Australia / New Zealand like the Wood Lord........ Haven't seen the Fisher Traditional models still in production mentioned here. I have all the manuals for those as well. No, I have not added them all up.
Ok, ya got me Coaly! … Here's what/where I was going; Baby bear, mama bear, papa bear, Grandma bear, Grandpa bear, XL, Coal bear, teddy bear, Goldilocks and the Honey bear. That's all I could remember . Sorry! I will leave quietly…
Ah, you're stuck in 1979. The rest came after that. I came across this picture of a Great Grandpa custom built in GA. It uses cut sheet size for Grandpa across, and Papa depth. About twice the size of an XL with 6 inch outlet. (XL cook top is the size of lower top only - it's like two Papas in one) He had extra Grandma doors, so had to use those with the smaller opening. That's good it fits the common screen. Building after 1988 there are laws allowing exempt "Hobby Stoves". He still has the machine to form the fenders but didn't like doing it so the ash fender is single plate. Not sure if he made those hinge plates. They bought out Dunn Bros. in VA and found the extra long plates for the "outboard' doors so I think that's what he used. You know I'm going to talk you into making one of these.
That thing is enormous! Good God man! Where would someone put that, In an airplane hanger? Did that one belong to CamFan?
OK, I guess. They get crazy with installs soon. He has a relative in MA so he gets up this way occasionally. Do you have their stove store webpage?
I'll PM you their Facebook and Twitter pages. Here is the back of the fabrication building of Fisher Stoves South East and the front showroom. Foreground is their outdoor grill display. I hope this isn't considered an advertisement, no product names are shown. When the old fabrication plants are still in the heating industry it's hard to show the building without advertising products. And the inside of showroom; Class A stove shop huh? More pictures here; Meet the Owner of Dory's Hearth, Home, & Patio
I hit my XL doors with lacquer thinner and nothing came off, I need to source some 10" pipe sometime.
Rubbing the raised portion with lacquer thinner on a rag doesn't make the rag black and remove paint?? Are you sure you are using lacquer thinner and not "paint thinner" which is Mineral Spirits? That won't touch cured paint. Lacquer thinner should. What size (diameter) is your chimney flue?
