Got the 30-NC installed!

Much less than $600. the ones "we" bought were for 519!

(Whoops, maybe I shouldn't have said that, huh?)

And then there was that $50 credit of a courtesy discount I was given.....whoops, I did it again!

Just jerking your chain, brother!
Very nice basement you have there!
Is that your first buck hanging on the wall?? The one that is shot three times?

 

Not sure of what the shipping to your house was this spring, but I think I got the stove for around five and a half all done.

I think every hunter has missed and felt bad about it....not to worry.

 

Right now, my stove top is at 360 degrees convection Hood is at 250 degrees, no blower on.
The blower will cool down the convection Hood and the stove top

 

OK, blower has been on low, for 10 minutes convection Hood it is now 220 and stove top is 340.
My stove is a little different though, when my blower is on, air also comes out the bottom channels under the ash tray , so combined, you get a lot of heat coming out the front of the stove with the blower on.

 

It really does make a nice flame show and the glass is large and stays clear. Pretty good design really. Low emissions for a large box too.

 

The NC30 is not a practical candidate for an OAK. The reason is that only one of the four air inlets for this stove is capable of being attached to the OAK system. That's right, the big 3" tube intake in the back is ONLY for the air wash air, the other three suck room air full throttle 24/7 nomatter what you do. So, meh, don't worry about it.

I am a big fan of OAK otherwise on stoves set up properly to utilize it.

 

Generally speaking, most of the fires in the 30 are with the primary turned Waaay down, so Highbeam's idea re: the OAK is spot on.
I have an OAK, and it'll get hooked up soon, but it's not as useful as I first thought it would be.
The tube for the OAK is cold and when the warm air in the house hits it, I get condensation.....which freezes, then thaws and drips on the floor.
I'll be wrapping the tube with Armaflex this winter to alleviate that.

 

My glass has been getting pretty dirty, in a "V" shape, clean in the middle and top. I am guessing it is because we are not really burning it yet.

 

It'll happen no matter what, just a little less once the cold hits.
I cleaned mine this morning with damp paper towels, then threw those in the stove.

 

My Glass gets dirty on the sides burning small loads, I just wipe it off with a dry paper towel.
Once I start bringing Full loads hot and long it stays pretty clean.

 

Dry wood, running her hard, stays clean. Only a white dust I can wipe off. Compare to the gunk on my BK that I use a razor blade to scrape off.

 

It was HDRock that started the thread last Feb about the NC 30 for 519.

I am guessing there were at least three purchases made directly due to that notification of a deal worth saving some $$.
I would like to thank him once again for posting that notice and as a gesture of goodwill, I will offer to pay your FHC membership fees for the next month. No need to thank me!



Now, if you could find a late model low mileage Mustang convertible.......

 

razor blade?

 

That would be nice too.
I had one Once Upon a Time, 1966 red with a black convertible top.

I still think there might be some lurkers out there that snatched up that deal.
I did find my 3 year old stove for $450, I think they retail for about 2,500 now

 

I guess I should have said a recent model mustang convertible.

 

No joke. It works extremely well though. A regular box knife blade. Really sharp and it scrapes the junk right off of the glass. Burning a cat stove at extremely low temperatures full time to heat my home means the glass gets a black, bubbly, hard, coating on it that windex won't touch. Not even the rutland glass cleaner. It's the kind of accumulation that when you use a paper towel and ashes, it just turns the paper towel into powder. Like a cheese grater.

But a 30 hour burn time on one load of PNW softwood, totally worth the dirty glass.

 

Here is what the manual for the Madison states about stove temp operation.
Locate a magnetic thermometer above the door, either left or right side. OK, I am still not sure where they mean; I need to ask them to show me in a photo. I assumed on the stove top above the door. Normal operation is between 350 and 550 F. 600 F is considered the maximum continuous operating temperature. However, the manual states that damage may result from operating at that high of a burn rate for extended time period. So, I can operate at that temp continuously but not for all the time I use it. 750 F or over is considered over firing.

So I really need to know where to place the thermometer for proper monitoring.

 

Is there room above the door on the "face" of the stove to place thermo there?
If so, I'd try that. Barring that, get an IR gun and start a fire. Use the gun on EVERY part of the stove. That should tell you where to monitor for highest temp.
I keep my thermo on the highest temp spot on the stove, but use the gun when the stove starts getting hot. That way, I get instant feedback on what the stove surface temp is, instead of having to wait for the magnetic thermo to register. The ones I've used are slow to respond to temp changes.