In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Got the 30-NC installed!

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by bushpilot, Sep 18, 2016.

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  1. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    This is exactly what happened with my jotul. The secondaries would go nuts and when I inquired about a damper at the stove shop, they thought I was nuts. I never ended up getting one, wish I did, ended up covering up the intake of the OAK with alum foil about 1/2 to 3/4 covered, and it helped. If I would still be living there this season, a pipe damper for both the chimney and OAK would have made control easier. I didn't have a long chimney span, gaskets were good, so I don't know.......
     
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  2. HDRock

    HDRock

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    My Lopi is a steel stove, below is what the manual says.
    My stove has hit 750 many times and sometimes runs for a couple hours at 725 but mind you, I do not have my thermometer in the spot they recommend, I have it in the hot spot in the middle of the stove top .

    This stove was designed to operate at a high temperature. But due to differences in vent configuration, fuel, and draft, this appliance can be operated at an excessive temperature. If the stove top or other area starts to glow red, you are over-firing the stove. Shut the air control down to low and allow the stove to cool before proceeding.
    Over-firing may lead to damage of plated surfaces. If you are uncertain of over-firing conditions, we suggest placing a stove thermometer (e.g. Rutland® Model 710) directly over the door on the stove top temperatures exceeding 800° are generally considered over-firing and will void the warranty.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2016
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  3. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    Up to 800 momentarily and no glowing should be fine. I run continuously at 700 as my target high output temperature. Measured in the middle of the step.

    I melted my nc30 not from high stove temps but by high intake settings during warm up. The airwash plate drooped down. Lesson learned, start at full throttle, warm her up at half throttle, then cruise. The airwash plate is too thin, it should be 1/4" like the rest.
     
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  4. Splitsnstacks

    Splitsnstacks

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    Wow, I'm way late on this thread! The 30 kicks butt, as others have already stated. I too run mine fairly hot and have had no warping occur. I aim for 600 for cruise temps with good dry hardwoods. I have accidentally let it reach 950+ SST a few times but like others said when you shut it down, it drops pretty quick. I routinely hit 800 during initial burn when it's very cold out. Around 475 I start to shut down in small increments. I also have 33' of stack so I'm sure my draft differs from yours greatly. At any rate, you'll love this stove!
     
  5. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Another 30 installed and started the curing process with a small fire this morning!!

    workshop 003.JPG
     
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  6. papadave

    papadave

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    Right where I want to be.
    Ooooh, there it is!:thumbs:
    BAM!
    Let the season begin. Should be a whole bunch of installs hitting soon.
     
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  7. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Good deal! I see you went for the legs, it looks quite different than the pedestal. I thought the wife would want the legs, but she said pedestal. Easier for me!

    After about 3 burns, I got no objectionable curing smell.

    33 feet?! Keep your pets away, they might be sucked in!

    Are you going to install an OAK? I will be, probably after this first winter. I have the stuff to do it, but am running out of time.
     
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  8. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Cool, all fired up :fire:
    Now you need a convection deck
    Is that at your house in the basement?

    Got chily last night with the windows open, so had a fire, left one window open
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2016
  9. Splitsnstacks

    Splitsnstacks

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    Haha, it does pull like a Hoover, ESW advised against it and suggested a pipe damper But honestly this stove is so controllable it doesn't matter. I have large magnets to put over the air inlets when the main controls don't calm things down. I've only used them once, it was like flipping a switch from on to off. Not something that I would suggest doing regularly but it is definitely nice to know that it can be shut off that quick when things go south. No I don't have an OAK installed, I have read so many different opinions on them but I still haven't formed my own opinion on them. I will say that my house is far from tight, so I don't really know if it would make any improvements in performance.
     
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  10. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    Alright!! :thumbs:
     
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  11. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    When I bought the stove, I thought I could talk 99 into replacing the kicker stove in the basement, but my patience is just too short to keep banging my head against the wall! :headbang:
    She likes the OWB way too much as far as cleanliness goes!

    So, I built my garage at the cottage this summer and allowed enough room for a workshop (more of a Dave Cave so far!) and installed the stove in there!
     
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  12. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Well, you got a good deal on it and you have heat in your new garage :yes:
     
  13. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    My house is as well very un-tight, but the OAK is required in WA. So I mispoke, I actually have one. :whistle:
     
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  14. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Hmm, put a hose on the inlet, add a few attachments, and you have an off-grid vacuum cleaner!
     
  15. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    (Forgot to respond to this question)
    If the stove was in the basement, it would probably have a convection deck. 90% likely.

    Since its in a workshop, I just may leave it as is.
    I do have a piece of 24ga (maybe 22 ga) metal earmarked to get cut out and bent and painted if'n I change my mind though.

    Don't suppose you can recommend any help with such a project?? :rofl: :lol:

    I followed that thread since I picked up the stove. The only thing that concerns me is the ability to cook/ brew coffee on top of the stove....I wonder if it is diminished a bit with the deck?
     
  16. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Dave, I'd say if you kept the fan off, you'd get some higher cook temps, yes?
    Just a guess though...
     
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  17. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I will have to revisit that thread. Your nc30 needs a convection deck | Firewood Hoarders Club

    What was the reason why it helps? (I guess I need to read the thread ...)
     
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  18. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    I'm thinking with all the air moving underneath the deck, the top of the deck wouldn't be a warm as compared to the top of the stove.
     
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  19. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    My only regret with my 30-NC?? Not buying a truckload of them, when they were less than $600 last year!!! :headbang:

    Great stoves and look even better when painted... And add a custom convection deck to extract even more heat!! :dex:


    20150219_175628.jpg
     
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  20. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    You've got one heck of a sweet man cave going on down there!
     
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