The official Earthquake thread.

Pulled my jug on the 38cc machine today, since I finally finished the 45cc this past weekend.

The 45cc runs good, but I think I am gonna open it back up, one more time

This 38cc machine is a DOG!

I removed the jug, did some widening of the ports, clean up transfers, removed base gasket, and put slots in the carb screws.

Wow!!! I got done about 9pm. So I couldn't put it in wood, but man does this thing rev so much faster. Sounds like a Demon with the Muff mod I gave it. I cut a very large square out of front of can (behind deflector) and took a 1/2' bit a bored a hole from back. To the front (came out where the square was).

Here are before and after #'s..

 

Wow, that machine was not making much for compression at all. What did you end up with for squish? I couldn't believe that my buddy's 45cc was @ .044" AFTER I ditched the base gasket.

What are you doing to "clean-up" the transfers? So far, every 'quake I've looked inside of has actually had really clean castings. Better than some Stihls/Huskies that I've been in.

 

By clean, I mean HOG OUT!!

For Squish. The 45cc was still huge without the base gasket.

So to be completely honest, I was lazy and just threw it together real quick. I broke the saw down, ground everything, re beveled ports, muff mod, and carb screw slots. All from about 4:45p to almost 9p and my cousins husband came over to get some wood in between all that (plus dinner).
His wood was wet (just split it Even family won't listen)

As fast as i can tear it down, I will measure squish tomorrow before I put any load on it. But this thing had a tremendous improvement over stock.

 

I'm not convinced it actually happened...... you know the rules.....

 

I didn't take any before/after pics of the actual ports. Believe me when I say, that it wasn't the prettiest job.

Doing a good job on a Cyl requires time, skill, and the right tools. My Dremel that spinning several thousand RPM is nowhere near as accurate and precise as the tools that the builders use (air powered and foot pedal controlled).

Here is a pic of the Piston. I shaved a fair amount off of it to reduce its weight. Again, not the prettiest job. In the pic, the upper left and lower right side of the casting (wrist pin part pf piston) are what I was grinding here (to see before and after).

 

Nope..

 

Nope. That's not a lot of material that's missing and the casting around the wrist pin is still very thick.

All I did was clean up what a good casting should look like. Didn't take away from any the wrist pin support.

In the grand scheme of things, I doubt it took off a gram (should have saved a weighed it) of aluminum.

You should see how much they remove from a hot saw or look up Pop up pistons. If you think I hurt the piston with that little of material? Then you would think other people destroy their engines.

Take away weight, and you reduce the rotational mass (less weight, more speed, power, etc)

I actually think I am gonna take a lot more off and remove some from the very bottom of piston and the skirt.

It's a $50 saw... Not worried about it. Plus, everyone had to learn somehow. This is my trial and error.

Just ordered an Aftermarket engine (Case, crank, piston, and cylinder). So I can experiment even further with timing.

 

Well, it's Official. All of the 45cc, 52cc, and 58cc saws run on the same frame. Even the "Richmonds". Got my little beauty I bought of eBay last week. A 58cc motor (complete motor with longer crank, etc).

Just need to pop off the 45cc Earthquake engine and put this one in there

Gonna run it as is and see the difference. Gonna try and get some timed cuts with the 45cc as it sits now (been ground on), then 58cc stock, then 58cc with ports ground and base gasket delete. The base gasket on this saw is very thick Hoping for some decent gains


Pics to prove it happened..

 

Just looked at ebay and people are paying stupid prices for these saws now..