can anybody tell me anything about this? Not able to find out much except for the history of the actual company. Thanks.
What do you want to know? Operation tips, fuel, controls? Model number goes by eye size (pan size - not inches in diameter) X firebox length. So it would be designated as example as 7-16 or 8-18 ....... It is an enameled Cabinet Range (no legs with bottom storage) that takes a LOT of floor protection. Considered an Antibaptist Stove with left side firebox so it is EPA exempt. No stove black required, oil top only. Common foot operated oven door latch, standard over / down side /under oven circulation that cools creating creosote and tar under oven. It will have a small opening between oven and vent allowing moisture from food to escape and is why it smells so good outside while cooking in oven. The lifter holes look worn out, they MUST be removable when hot with a lifter. The right rear eye cover is a "nest" that belongs over the fire box for removing just the right amount of stove top to fit the pan or tea pot used or for less direct heat to the bottom of pans. Normally used as the front burner. You learn to move pots and pans for desired heat on all cook stoves and remove eye cover under pan for fast cooking. Obviously simmer is all the way to the right front away from heat flow to exhaust. If the thermometer in door doesn't have a probe, it reads much lower than actual oven temp. You must rotate during oven use since the firebox side is much hotter. The two lids and I support over firebox are removable wash day for a rectangular wash tub to fit for direct heat to tub bottom. (usually copper) Sunday was normally the day to let them cool the most to re-season the top weekly. The above is not brand specific, it is generally known information of the time. If you have specific questions about this model, I need more pictures since the manufacturer made many models.
Don't worry, there's plenty I haven't seen. When all else fails "The Metal Worker" a weekly journal from the stove industry is an excellent resource. With more pictures inside and out you can identify it from Volume 48 on page 59 here; The Metal Worker It's probably the 8 X 24, but I'm not guessing from one pic. If anyone wants to seriously heat and cook with a cookstove, they are still being made with steel plate instead of cast iron (some hybrid with both) that have flame viewing, counter rotating oven (counter clockwise flow) that eliminates the tar and sludge under oven. Newer models have bypass damper to allow heat directly up stack without heating the entire stove in the summer, summer grates and thermostats ! Tops are steel plate with no worries of cracking. I heated for years with cast iron and the steel plate change is the best that could happen for a cookstove. My Kitchen Queen sits next to a commercial Garland propane range that has six 30,000 BTU each top burners and two 30,000 BTU ovens. (plus a two foot griddle with 4 burner X 30,000 each) My wife prefers wood for stove top and oven cooking over what has more than twice the output of residential ranges. The antique cast iron Buckwalter (similar to the R&B) was a chore to run and clean. There is nothing antique or modern EPA Certified that comes close to what the new cookstoves can do.
thanks coaly. when i first posted this, the offer on the table was to process some down trees into firewood as trade for the stove. they were supposed to get me some pictures after they stated "This weekend I'll go into the woods and see exactly what it looks like. There are different size rounds probably only some are doable. Is your truck 4 wheel drive?" and i never heard back. i will remind them. i would be putting this in my barn to replace a russo fireview. it might see use every other weekend at most. would the humidity in the summer be a problem for the top?
Light coat of Vegetable oil while it's cold will keep it from rusting, I do that on my cast that I'm not using often.
