I was walking around the property and notice a large oak tree had died below the house. I have been hearing things crash behind the house and it was the limbs from the top of the tree. It is a large tree and there is a lot of wood in it. However, I am wondering about cutting it down. I am still learning this stuff. Can I safely take it down? Are the procedures on dead trees different? The dead oak I took down the other day was not that large. I hate to see this tree just rot away when it could be heating my home at some time.
one thing I've noticed. I make my face cut first then my back cut.. I use felling wedges to angle tree where I want it too fall.. when setting the wedges several times I've had smaller top dead branches come down.. that is a key difference and huge safety issue.. also when falling the tress breaks different. please use a little extra caution!
Dead tree = spotter that you REALLY trust our better yet, a helmet. I have a co-worker who recently came very close to losing his son, who is in construction, when a stack of bricks above him fell on his head. The helmet pictures were grisly.. First thing I thought of was a leaner I have at the edge of my little field that I have been eyeballing for a couple years, and how it's going to stay there being dead until I invest in a helmet. Not trying to be a worry-wart at you, just wanted to bring up something you may not have considered.
Dead trees can have limbs/tops that break off as the tree falls, and come straight down rather than stay with the direction of the falling tree. Every one is different, but as a rule dead trees require more attention and care even if they have a good lean and a clear path to fall.
Good points above but also be careful on the dead stuff for barber chair, if you decide to take it down make sure you have a clear escape path if anything goes awry.
Dang; now I don't know about it. Maybe it should stay until my friend comes down or maybe just stay; I don't want to get hurt. Plus, I don't have any wedges.
Well if it's leaning the way you want it to go I don't think you need wedges - just my opinion. Definitely yes to a clear path of escape and if there are limbs overhead definitely yes to a helmet. I always prefer cutting a tree down with someone - it gives me another set of eyes and someone to talk things through with.
When in doubt, don't rush it. A standing dead oak will be good wood for another year, perhaps another decade... it won't rot on you overnight. In any case, it will likely still have enough moisture that you won't want to burn it this winter. Most of the second opinions I get come from myself. I trust the cautious part of my brain a bit more than I trust the impulsive part (not that you'd know it from the way I sometimes behave). Letting a tree stand always makes more sense than letting it crack you on the noggin.
Yes, that is true; lots of wood in that tree. Diseased at the very bottom but not enough for any storm to take her down.
Slap the bottom of the trunk with the back of an ax or maul.... Barcroftb & Shawn Curry know a thing or two about determining hollow tree issues....
Tricky thing with that, at least from the pictures, might be getting it to drop with out hanging up in other trees. It is very hard to size up a tree drop without being there to look it over and I sure don't want to give you advise just from pictures.
Yes, wish I could have someone here to teach me more. I watch videos but seeing it in person and having someone explain on a real demonstration is better.
I noticed in the pics some smaller downed and leaning trees. Not sure what type of wood or how solid, but I have scrounged a lot of BTUs from smaller, deader stuff that others would leave as slash and trash! My first year with a stove I had very little seasoned wood, so I burned mostly dead and dry branch wood (=branchburner) and slab and pallets. With an EPA stove, even semi-punky pine will throw some heat, so long as it's bone dry. Mixing such "trash" wood with some bigger splits of hardwood has served me well over the years. A BTU is a BTU, so long as my stove is burning clean.
Dead trees can present additional hazards, as others have pointed out. You want to be careful with wedges too - if the hinge wood has begun to rot it's more likely to shear if you had to wedge it over. A rope would be much better. But it sounds like further study is in order - both of the tree and possible techniques. I highly recommend "To Fell a Tree" by Jeff Jepson. Every firewood hoarder should own a copy of that book.
This is not a good candidate for you to learn on all by yourself. The wood shouldn't rot too bad while it's standing there dead. I would suggest taking a felling course. Or alternatively find a GTG and learn from someone there. There is also the option of taking a course put on by the International Society of Arboriculture or a Game of Logging class. If any are available in your area. In short that tree looks like a widow maker with a very small margin for a successful fall by a rookie.
