You can muffler mod it dont hurt the saw for the piston that looks good . I put a new oem piston in a husqvarna 372 the compresion was 120 and again is 120 why is this ?? so take off your cylinder take the ring from your piston and put the ring inside the cylinder , if the ring leave more of 0,6 - 0,8 mm where the ring close the ring is not good but if you put a new ring and leave again more of 0,6 -0,8 then the cylinder is no good i mean 0,6-0,8 between the two ends of the ring when the ring is inside the piston so in my husqvarna 372 the compression is again 120 because the cylinder is no good , no matter if i put a new oem piston
You tried to repair it yourself,but looks like you're at an impasse, a muffler mod is not going to fix your issues
Can someone inform me in wich episode we are ?? the saw dont start the saw dont idling the saw dont cut fast the saw dont stop the saw dont ........ thanks in advance
I have post the service manual and the ipls for this saw, there writte all the issues and the solves . anyway the saw dont start because 1) compression problems 2) air leaks 3 ) ignition problems 4) flywheel key 5 ) weak magnets 6 ) have forget to put fuel in the tank ( this is not in the manuals )
I think it has issues where it all of a sudden is "real hard to pull over"? Not just won't start but like there is something dragging, I think is how I take it?
No i tell you what is the problem , the oem is expensive , and the aftermarket is chineese , and the dealer need money this is the problem
But they describe the issue as "all of a sudden it's hard to start" like it has "super compression" or something. Says the piston and cylinder and ring look good? I would of thought a ring was catching on one of the ports or maybe something in the recoil itselft, but I think both of those have been eliminated?
I think she should ship it to you and you can get Rockin and Rollin, it will be mystery solved Seriously she needs to send someone that knows what the hell they're doing
I'm no expert but I could fumble around with it. MasterMech may be the best person on here to help as he has touched more of these saws than I have ever seen, but that said I have had my 1127 saw totally pulled apart down to fix internal issues before. I have a 390 it's the big brother to the 290 still an "1127" saw and basically identical to the 290 except P&C. Wel pantelis could handle it as well but I think shipping would be a killer
I had this happen with a 192t. Replaced pawls and spool with oem new stuff and still no joy. I put new whole recoil assembly on it and it starts like new. I posted this a gazillion pages back. Buy the whole assembly. Oe or am. 4 screws later you will be cutting wood instead of wondering why it won't work. You need wood you have admitted. Your saw doesn't run. I think it's time to get your wallet out instead of the keyboard. It's still gonna be cheaper than propane. I promise.
I agree with you. I think something else in the recoil may be affecting it as well. Which is why I went looking for an OEM; $126 I think is too much, I am sure if I look hard enough on the net I can find a better deal on an OEM. Also, some have said to go ahead and try the cheap Chinese units but I want to see first of finding a better priced OEM before going that route. Or even finding a rebuilt OEM; I don't want to buy a used OEM that has not been rebuilt and certified.
If it were me I would buy the used part off ebay. Nobody rebuilds and certify these things. But there are also many saws just like your with 10x the hours and use on them that yours has I bet and they still running the original recoil. Sure it may last 2 seasons or it may last the saws life. Even at 2 seasons that's less than $20 a year to get you back in wood. But if the seller calls it a good part on ebay and you identify a problem as soon as you mount it they have to refund you, if they don't or your not happy with their answer take it to ebay, they usually side with a buyer esp if you can prove or give a reasonable reason as to why it's not as described.
To recap; The Beast has always been easy to start; I know some say that Stihl saws can be hard to start but not this saw, choke, pull a few time till sputters, open choke pull and start. When it is hot, no choke needed. I am very happy with the saw and I am very grateful to those that gifted it to me. The saw started to get hard to pull the recoil, to the point where you pull the saw off the ground. Since I was use to starting the saw, I knew something was wrong. MasterMech said it was the recoil, and advise to put new pawls and spool in the recoil. I got some aftermarket pawls and spools but it did not fix the saw. So I think the best course is to replace the whole recoil, something else is worn or something; I don't know, that is causing it to be hard to pull. With the plug out, the saw spins freely. I took the muffler off yesterday because someone stated the screen may have been clogged for some reason, maybe bugs or something. The screen was nice and clean, no blockage on the muffler. Since the muffler was off, I inspected the piston and it look good to me, I could not see any scaring or anything. I took a photo, will post it later if it came out.
Have you even got this saw started since this issue has developed? Just so we're sure there is no other mechanical damage(like failed bearings etc)? But without a plug if it pulls smoothly I really doubt that to be the case.
I just got another price from a dealer, $106.00 for new OEM. OK, that is not going to happen. Time to think over the advice here and make a decision.
I've had good luck with AM recoils from both these sellers: Russopower - $18.70 - 3-5 days to door. Huztl - $14.31 - 8-14 days to door.