I wanted to get some timed cuts to see how my saws stacked up against each other in the set up they have now. I figured I would share. 10" maple. The compression on my 346 oe has felt weaker in the last few months. I have been going back and forth on weather to replace the piston with another 42mm or upgrade to a ne piston and cylinder. I would like to hear your suggestions. Sorry about the dim video, it was only 5 pm.
Have you put a compression gauge on it, or removed the muffler to get a look at the piston? Has it seemed to run differently in any other way? In the context of non-professional use by a guy who has several saws to choose from on any given day, I wouldn't expect normal wear to have much impact even over the course of years. I'd want a better understanding of what was wrong before I went shopping for top end parts.
Tune on first saw was extremely rich. I've compared OE to NE. I didn't notice much difference. Took a stop watch to tell. Here's my video using OE 346 and 2153 with .325, 3/8, and 63ps. Both tuned to factory spec. Bottom line, I'm keeping the OE and going to sell the jred.
I have a crappy gauge. It is showing 130 psi on it but I don't trust the gauge. It's a 2004 model, bought it early 2015 in a box and I have had it apart many times. Slight scoring on the piston on the exhaust side and can barely make out the machine marks. I put a new ring on when I bought it. I would guess 5-6 tanks through it since then. I also just put an aftermarket el32 carb on it. It is not something that I am going to do right now because it is running fine but it doesn't as strong anymore. So I was coming up with a plan.
The 346 is definetly rich, I haven't got the tune right with the new carb and it was 90• making the video. So you think the oe is just as strong? I do not have a tach. I know it is rich and so is the 5100. But I think the 5100 runs better that way. I should re-tune them and try again.
I'd recommend to retune and test using the same chain. I like the OE due to more rpm. Both mine have a muffler mod is all.
Even if the gauge isn't reliable against a standard that would make its readings comparable to other gauges', you can compare the readings you get from the same gauge on different saws. Put it on a saw you feel is in good condition, and see what you get.
I counted 12's on the 346, 14's on the 350, 8's on the first 2 cuts with the dolmar. All of those times seem a little excessive to me for 10" maple. What are the specs of the chains you're running? I'd like to send you a chain or 2 for comparison sake.
Your pretty on with your numbers. I got averages of 11.5-346, 13.5-350 and 8.5-5100. The numbers were around what I thought they would be and in the same order. They all have different bars and chains. 346- Oregon 21 bpx .325 .058 66 dl350-Oregon semi chisel .325 .050 72 dl 5100-Carlton semi chisel .325 .058 72 dl. I made the video to see if what I felt when I was running the saws would show up on the stopwatch. This is how I run those 3 saws with these bars and chains. I was not trying to do a direct comparison of brands or models or bars or chains. Shawn Curry if you want to send them to me I'll make a video with them and compare after I retune these saws.
Yeah I suppose that semi chisel made it seem slow. You ought to try some full chisel on there - I don't have any in those pitch/gauge combinations though. Do all of those saws take the same bar mount? If you wanted a comparison between the saws, running the same bar and chain on each would be the way to go. If you can use the same bar, let me know which one you want a chain for.
I see more dust come out than chips all saws listen very rich so buy a cheapo tach and tune the saws the compressions testers are all the same if they have schrader valve at the ends
