Yep. I was building a room addition on my house and heard from the neighbors when I would try to work on it after I got home from the evening shift.
The only thing I've noticed with ash is it seems to be a little unpredictable when left dead-standing. Maybe it's just the way they were attacked by the emerald ash borer, but I have some trees that I've cut down 2-3 years after they were killed and the wood is in great shape, and I've seen a couple fall on their own after 2-3 years because the wood is started to go bad.
Some of my old chunk and ugly bins I've burned we're 7-8 years old, now they weren't ash but a mix of beech, oak, sugar maple. Top only covered and rain would get to a lot of it. That stuff never rotted and burned great.
:stacke: I've heard that same thing. I can tell you very plainly that whoever comes up with such bull is not very knowledgeable. Or if they are, we are in deep trouble. We've burned a steady diet of ash since the EAB came to roost here with the first infected tree cut in 2002. Since then close to 100% of all the wood we burn is ash. We've been as much as 8 or 9 years ahead in our wood supply too with most of that being ash and dead elm. Have we ever had a problem with wood being too dry? I guess not but then, I've never seen wood that is too dry to burn. Yes, it can and will burn quicker in the stove than wood it more moisture but isn't that one good reason they put draft controls on a stove? Methinks anyone who claims wood burns too fast has burned wood that has not dried properly and then tries to burn the dry wood the same as they did the wet wood. Of course it will burn faster! But, as stated, there are draft controls at least on most stoves I've operated and seen. Dial it down after the fire gets established. btw, it was not that many years ago we had to clean our a barn for someone and it was full of firewood. All white ash. We determined that wood had been in the barn for at least 12 years and very possibly longer. Dang, that was some sweet burning wood! The fellow stated about not getting your bang for the buck. Where you don't get it is with wood that has not been dried. You have to give it so much draft to keep the fire going that most of the heat has to go up the chimney to keep the draft going enough to exhaust the smoke. But, some just never seem to learn. btw, quite a bit of our ash is now beginning to turn toward the punky state but not there yet. That wood that is a bit further along will be burned during daytime and also during spring and fall and will heat our home very nicely. That is so much better than just letting it go to waste... And yes, we've let others cut wood and have sold some and have given some away. But we still have too much!
Eric VW the creosote problem can depend much upon the stove and the chimney. One good example is after installing the Woodstock Fireview we simply just did not get creosote. But a couple years ago we did add a section of SS chimney on top and right at the very top we got just a little bit but certainly not enough to be a problem. That is caused by the smoke cooling too much before exiting the chimney. It is natural at the very top for this to happen and that is why many folks only have to clean the very top of the chimney along with the cap. Now to back up, if the flue temperatures drop as you asked, yes, it can and will be a problem but you will also notice because you'll no doubt have a smoky house! And for sure you will notice every time you open that firebox door.
