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Rope question

Discussion in 'Axes, Mauls, and Hand Saws' started by papadave, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. papadave

    papadave

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    So, I've got a few trees that want to fall in a direction I don't want (that I'd really like to take down), and I've been considering using rope up in the trees hooked either to another tree with a come-along or the Jeep to help persuade them to fall where I want.
    I can get about 25' up in a 50-60' tree with the rope, and that's about it.......I haven't climbed a tree in decades.
    Anyway, need suggestions on type and size rope to get, plus any other suggestions that seem appropriate.
     
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  2. Shawn Curry

    Shawn Curry

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    A throw line and weight should get you a bit higher than that with very little practice.
    TreeStuff - Weaver Standard Throw Weight
    TreeStuff - Throw Line

    I just have some rope from Homer Despot. It's a little stretchy under tension, but it's cheap and it's got the job done many times. If my life or property depended on it, I might fork over the big bucks for a real bull rope. I don't remember which size it is - maybe around 5/8?
     
  3. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Shawn's advice is good, I have used different things for throw weights with some mason's string for the throw line.

    Cheap rope is what it's name implies, so as long as it is a guide rope only should be fine. I ponied up for a bull rope, and it was like $100 for a decent one from treestuff.com. If I treat it well I hopefully bought a nice rope for a reasonable price and it is good and long.

    Once the rope is as high as you'd like, presumably over a limb up there, I just let it fall to the base of the tree. Wrap it around the tree above where you will put your notch and tie it off at the base. No need to be a tree monkey and the ladder stays out of the picture.
     
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  4. papadave

    papadave

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    I'm missing something here, I think.
    A decent 5/8" 125-150' should do the trick?
     
  5. Shawn Curry

    Shawn Curry

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    After taking the throw weight on the chin last weekend, I was sure glad I switched to the beanbag, instead of the two carabiners I had been tossing a few minutes prior... :pain: The biners kept getting hung up on branches too - but the beanbag just glides right past them.

    I'm not sure the purpose of tying off at the base of the tree either? I think he means to directionaly fall it, not climb it.

    I tossed the throw weight over the crotch of the tree, used that line to pull my other rope up there, shimmied it around the trunk, and tied a running bowline and pulled it tight. Then I walked in the direction I wanted it to fall, until I found a tree (my rope is 200'). I wrapped the tree saver around it, secured it with a biner, to which I attached the come-a-long. Stretched the cable out, tied a figure 8 into the pull rope, attached a biner in the eye, hooked onto the biner, and ratchet it down.
     
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  6. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Yes, 5/8" I think sounds rights and 150' is about perfect for most applications with a straight pull.

    Bull rope gets pulled up over the highest limb and it falls back to the ground. I use that end to tie to the base of the tree to be felled. Tie it off a couple feet above your planned notch(wrap around base diameter, then secure however you choose, I just loop it over itself several times over nice and tight.) Walk the other end out to your anchor point. Get it tight and fell the tree. My feet never leave the ground.

    Sorry if words are not clear, couldn't find a web picture but I either learned it on AS or from Jepson's book.
     
  7. Shawn Curry

    Shawn Curry

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    Right - gotcha. You end up losing almost 1/2 the rope length, but if something goes wrong, at least you can still get your rope back. If you've got a bowline 40' up the tree, the only way you're getting it back is if you put the tree on the ground or climb it.
     
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  8. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Yep, you lose the height to the limb you're on plus whatever tie off section you use. Saves time, not rope that's for sure.
     
  9. papadave

    papadave

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    Ah, ok, got it now. I couldn't get a clear pic in my feeble mind. Much clearer now, thanks.
    None of these tress are huge. I have one Red Maple just off the path in back that'll fall into some thick stuff I'd rather not deal with, so tying off like that will help put it back into the path where I can buck it up easily.
     
  10. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Be careful and don't wear ya slippahs :saw:
    :thumbs:
     
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  11. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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  12. papadave

    papadave

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    One or two eye splices?
     
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  13. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Oh, what's an eye splice or two among friends, eh?
    As long as it's not three.....
    :whistle:
    :rofl: :lol:
     
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  14. papadave

    papadave

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    Three's a crowd on my cloud.
    Apologies to the Stones.
     
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  15. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    no need for eye splices in a rigging rope.
     
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  16. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    There ya have it papadave :thumbs:
     
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  17. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    Often you can find similar bull rope on sale, but it's still a great value at regular retail. Also, you can use the coupon code "arborist" for ~7% off at treestuff.com.
     
  18. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Pretty sure that's the same stuff I bought. Very reasonably priced. I keep it dry and in an old broken suitcase, hope it to last me a while.
     
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  19. dusky

    dusky

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    I use a bow and arrow with a spin casting fishing reel to get lines up. Tie fishing line to arrow, open up the bail one the reel, then shoot. Tie the fishing line to a thin cord and reel in in, then use the cord to pull up heavier rope.
     
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  20. HDRock

    HDRock

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    I have a 1/2" 1200 pound rope I bought at Tractor Supply I have used to direct, trees and also pull them down but, mind you they were not big trees, 15 inch.
     
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