Built a poor man's sawmill today

I have been thinking about buying an Alaskan sawmill but wasn't crazy about putting out several hundred dollars on something I've never tried so I decided to make a cheap version.

I know my version of a sawmill is about as basic as it gets but it's a start.

Decided to use a trunk of an ash I cut down in my yard. You can see I wrote a love note to my bride on it. Chainsaw artist I am not!



I blocked it in place to keep it from moving. I figured I would cut that side off just for fun. Never know when I might want to slip her a love note in her pocket.



Started by building an "I" beam rail. Used an old 2x8 and to new straight 2x4s.



I used a couple long screws to anchor the rail in place over the "sign" part of the log.



I'm pretty limited to the size of logs I can cut. I really only have two options.

I have my 450 Rancher with a 20" bar, so I'm limited in power, size and chain type.

I do have a Poulan Pro 5020 with a chipper chain on a 20" bar but I need to get it in the shop as it's not starting right now.

So the Husky got called to serve sawmill duty.

I had to drill a hole by the power head ( there is one already in the bar near the tip) so I could run some 1/4" thread all through it.



I used scrap 2x6 wood spacers of different sizes to attached to the bar.

 

I countersunk the blocks so they sat flush on the bar.



I ended up using a piece of 1x12 and a repurposed handle to finish out the saw attachment. I made sure it didn't cover the oil fill plug so I wouldn't have to pull it all apart to refill it.



I used 12" pieces of thread and double nutted it. You can see the stacked spacers for the first cut and the limited size between the blocks that I can cut. Maximum width I can cut is 14.5".



Because of the width restriction I had to shave some bark off the sides. Here you can see the system about ready to go for its first spin.



Although it went slow with the equipment I had you can see it was getting the job done. It took a while to get the rhythm down so I wouldn't bog down as I cut and I'm glad I put that handle on! I used some old cedar shingles to keep the cut open as I cut.



Job complete...well at least the first cut is!



I had fun doing this, a limited set up for sure, it still was fun. I will get the Poulan going to see how it compares when I use its more aggressive chain.



I know it's maybe 10% of the system most you guys have but it's a start!

 

Well, Kelli outta love that. Nice work.

 

Well schlot, that's about as basic as they come. Function first. Thanks for sharin' your rig. It's neat seeing how people make do with their noggins Kudos And happy sawin'.

 

Love it! Did you get the idea from the YouTube video of the guy in CA sawing redwood? I think Will Malloff also suggested a similar system in "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" (the Bible of CSM)

Next step is to cut a couple rectangles of plywood, which can be screwed to the end of the log, to rest the I-beam on. They could then be easily aligned to the heart center of the log - which yeilds the strongest, straightest lumber.

 

How smooth/rough did the board end up?

 

I did watch a couple videos early this am, not sure who they were though. One had a similar layout so I just tweaked it some.


I was thinking about just sliding the saw and frame along the top of the cut log but you think still using the frame would be better?

 

It's was fairly rough with the blade I was using. Thinking about cutting a couple slabs out for my friend who has a real nice table top planer.

 

I was tempted to split it long ways with a big karate chop but....

 

Right- once you make the first cut, you can just use the frame. But I like to establish my first cut square with the heart center. Using plywood ends could also help with imperfect logs where I-beam doesn't want to sit right.

 

Oh I see now....great tip. Thanks.

 

schlot,
Great idea and thanks for posting it.

 

Nice job man, it works

 

Great job.If this isnt awesome well then I don't know what is.........

You're on your way now,once that bug bites there's no turning back.

 

Without the block spacers (marked 3" and 3 1/2"), do you suppose this set up be all loosey goosey? Like if it was the threaded rod only, and locked on each side of the saw bar with washer and nut, and locked on each side of the 1x12 with washer and nut?

And then height could be set by raising/lowering the nuts?

 

That might work, with the use of a jam nut. But I find myself returning to the same measurements over and over again, so I'd definitely make a couple spacers if it was me.

 

Thanks guys for all the encouragement.

I decided to make a couple slabs at the end of the day. Both are 2" thick after using 2 1/4" blocks.



I sharpened the chain before I started and by the end of the second slab it was sawdusting up a storm so it's ready for another sharpening.

I decided to give these to my brother since he's been a big supporter of mine these past few years. I stacked them in my garage with 2x2s below and between them. I put 4 concrete block on the top one.

Do you think that is good enough?

saskwoodburner that is a good question. I think with my saw and chain set up, it's nice to have the block there to keep the bar and guide parallel, since I have to push it pretty hard to bite into the wood.