MS290 starting issue

Yes, and I am thinking I should buy a new chain; I have been practicing sharpening on the old chains. Thanks again for the saw, it is really appreciated. It is a good little saw.

 

What drive link count do you need?

 

If you aren't comfortable with doing those extra chains ,and think that a local shop will butcher them ( highly likely from personal experience ) . Throw them in one of those flat rate usps boxes / envelopes ,and send them up here . I'll get them sorted out and back to you for postage cost . A suggestion as far as learning to file ..... Get a stihl shapening kit ( files ,holder ,raker gauge ,raker file ,handle ) for whatever pitch chain you have . Then get the stihl FG 1 filing tool for that gauge chain .

 

I gifted Kimberly a new Oregon set up(files, handle, raker gauge, bar mount filing guide, etc) when I gave her my nice 330T as a back up saw.
Kimberly I have some extra 52dl loops I can send you if you can confirm that 52 is the correct drive link count.

 

Hello and my apologies for disappearing on everyone, gosh, it is the 19th already. Jon, I was going to see about some new chains for the saw you gave me. I have been practising my sharpening.

 

So did you ever fix the starting issue?

 

OK, something new for me to learn; how do I count these, is this the same as counting the cutting edges; what are they called on a saw?

 

Your talking about cutters. But No you don't count cutters you count drive links. The humps that ride in the bar groove. They look like shark fins. Count each point or drive link.

The cutters can vary on the same DL chain. IE skip chain or semi skip or full comp.

 

OK, I was going to update. I finally got the pawls and the spool that I ordered, off market or whatever you call it, non OEMs. This is what I am experiencing. I place the saw on the floor of the shed. I put my foot on the rear handle, left hand on top of the front handle. I lean over and I use my right hand to start the saw. I pull slowly until I feel the pawls engaged, then pull hard to start the saw. When I pull hard, I am jerking the saw up from the floor and it is hard to pull. I have started this saw many times before I started having issues, The Beast has always been easy to start.
Is it the after market pawls and pulley? With the spark plug out, she turns easily. I switched to the double pawls but it was doing the same with the old pulley and one new pawl. I am thinking of taking it down to the shop and get it diagnosed but I can not afford them to fix it, I would have to attempt it myself. If the crew here feels it is the pawls and pulley, then I will spend the money for the OEM; does anyone have a source because I could not find them on ebay that stated OEM and I don't want to buy the same after market again.
I have not cut any firewood for the winter :-(.

 

You lost me on this but yes, I understand the drive links now.

 

Full comp has a cutter for every drive link. Semi skip has a cutter every 1.5 drive links (known as DL's example 72DL) and skip or full skip has a cutter every 2 DL.

Your talking aftermarket not "off market".

I would think if you watch ebay you can get a good used recoil assembly for not much.

Maybe call the bigger stihl dealers and ask if they have any 290 parts saws that they would sell the starting parts or even the whole recoil assembly off of.

 

LOL, yes, if you noticed, I used both terms; it would not pop in my head at first

 

You used both terms In this post?

 

OK. I went by a place the other day that had a big Stihl sign on the outside of the building; I couldn't stop at the time. I think I will take the saw head to them. let them see what it is doing, tell them what I replace and what with, and as clemsonfor stated ask them what they can do for me.

 

Yes, if you look you will see where I asked "Is it the after market pawls and pulley?"

 

What can I say, I am unique

 

Haha see it now! I read over it I guess the first time use to seeing it then went and looked for it and skimmed over it the second time.

No big deal...I just couldn't find it.

 

If shipping was not so high these days, I would ship the saw to the guys on here that offered to fix it; I would pay of course. I trust the guys on here rather taking it to some shop I don't know.

 

I think the problem is in the recoil. You can probably ship just that assembly. That person would have to have an 1127 series saw to test it though.

 

Shipping is going to be cheager than paying for a diagnosis. You'll probably pay an hour minimum labor....