So I've improved my venting situation every year since we bought the place three years ago. I'm to a point where my draft is good. ...not great. So this summer I've decided to at least start designing an entire new system. I have questions about how to support class A exterior chimney once I clear the roof. The stove is in the family room of the back of the house and has a relatively shallow fall roof and is maybe 8 ft from outside ground level to the singles. I can gran the roof without using a ladder. My plan is to completely remove the masonry chimney and start fresh with Selkirk class A since I already have about 8 feet of it already. I considered building a chase but other than asthetics how structural is a chase? It's going to have to be 10-14 feet above the roofline and nothing really close to brace it to to support it in the wind. I have seen one or two people locally that sink telephone poles next to the house and hook onto that but I'm not sure that really a good idea. I'm curious how installers attach new chimneys to Modular or Mobil homes with low pitch roofs. I hope this makes sense Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Here's a good pic of an exterior chase.... Canadian border VT's set up. The Chimney The rest of the the thread has great suggestions, you just have to wade thru the other parts.
chance04, that is my set up, I installed the class a chimney and insurance company insisted it go in a chase.. they explained too many had creosote come down outside chimney causing fires so chimney was installed to instructions on class a boxes .... chase is 2 by 4 (4 corners) house side ledger locked to studs in house wall. plywood, wrap, and vinyl... My wife says I never really finish things (which is true) pics the bottom of chase will be plywood to hinges and a barrel bolt with vinyl to make it look nice.. basically a finished access door. I did cut the eve of house and build it in seemed easier than going around it plus gave support to framing..
Ideal steel has a 15 foot minimum and with a wall thimble to a tee setup I'll assume 17-19 foot total. And with only 8 foot to support and then the longest brace I can find adjustable from 48 to 72 inches. That still gonna leave a lot more than 5 foot that seems to be a standard above the brace Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Maybe I'll go straight up through roof and try 16-17 foot. Can I extend the legs of the brace safely or will the weight it down too much? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
This pic. I see what appears to be two 4ft sections and perhaps a foot or so protruding from the roof maybe part of the support box? Suppose you had to add another 4 foot section to the top of this. I would assume a second brace would be needed but the legs would need to be super long like 10/12 foot (I didn't take the time to do the math of the hypotenuse ) that's acceptable? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I have just over 7 feet of Class A above the roof line. Those are 3 foot sections you're looking at in the picture. My roof in 4-12 pitch. The braces telescoped out quite a ways as I recall...............though I didn't need it all.
If you think you will need some braces longer than the standard brace kit, you can use metal conduit to make the legs; 10 foot sections can be joined with the conduit connectors and the conduit can be cut to the lengths you need. I don't think you need pipe heavier than metal conduit but others can answer this better than I. Or if you do, then the home improvement shops still carry galvanized pipe.
I went outside the wall and up; I may have posted some photos in some thread. I had to increase the standard offset from the wall because I needed to clear the eave and eavetroughs.
It is important to install chimney properly. A properly installed chimney liner insulates from cold and draughts. It also reduces the risk of toxic flue gases and smoke coming into your house. So it is important to hire professionals for chimney liner installation long island who has relevant experience.
I have close to 8' of class A sticking up through my roof from the stove in the kitchen, I had to make my own braces. I used 3/8" stainless steel rod for the long braces, and welded stainless tabs on either end to affix them to the flue and roof. Works excellent. And that stove has EXCELLENT draw, being it's 21' in length.
Thank you for all the input. I'll be modifying and lengthening braces Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
