i am looking for more from my 346oe. I did 3 things muff mod, base gasket delete and put oem impulse line on. The thing is acting like it has a huge air leak! No power in the cut, high idle, and racing rpms. It also felt very weak on compression. So I took it back apart, cleaned it all up, sanded down the base got all the motoseal off. Cleaned it again and glued it again. Cleaned out the crankcase. I have been very careful not to get any motoseal in impulse hole. Tested it yesterday and same thing as the first time but worse. I couldn't adjust the carb enough to idle for more then 30 sec. So back to it today. Inspecting the cylinder to base connection it is perfect. I can see a little grey layer of sealant all around the base. I took out the cylinder screws and I cannot remove the cylinder by hand, it is on tight! I don't see how there is a leak there, carb is on tight, intake has new metal clamp and seals were good before I started this. Did I open the muffler to much? But that wouldn't explain the compression. I am looking for a little help from my friends here before I just put the base gasket back on. Btw the squish is at .020 w/o gasket. What did I do wrong?
Does the Intake boot contact the crankcase? Lowering the cylinders on these is known to be problematic in that area.
It does. It bottoms out on the lip with the boot. But looking around that area it seamed good. Nice light bead around the intake side. That's has to be it though. So your saying I should trim the boot?
OE has no decomp, right? Because otherwise I might look there as well. What was your procedure for letting the Motoseal set up?
No decomp. This will only be my third cylinder without base gasket. First two had no problems. My procedure is applying the motoseal to the cylinder base first and the to the crankcase with a q tip. It takes me about a minute to put the cylinder on piston. I push cylinder all the way to the bottom and put my weight on it for about 30 seconds. Put the screws in as tight as possible with my t-handle. Put the rest back together and do a drop test. Wait till the next day to start it. Anything I could do better? Missing?
Kyle, I haven't done many myself. I apply similar, snug by hand, let it set up, then really tighten the bolts. Run it. Re-tighten after a heat cycle.
I don't think you lowered it enough to cause a problem that the case needs clearance. Without doing a vac/pressure test its all guesses. One thing I've seen is the OE carb, el18 & hda159 can struggle giving enough fuel after The mods you did. I prefer el32 and plug the primer tube.
I never do anything to a saw until the motoseal has had at least 24 hours to set up first. Just get the cylinder on and let it sit. No drop test or anything else.
So everything else have been tested again and again with perfect results and now we concentrate to the motoseal
Correct. That's what I was saying. I am not sure what you are referring to here? Motoseal not working. I couldn't bring myself to do it again after I scraped, sanded and cleaned the case up for almost an hour. I put the base gasket back in and ran it with the muff mod. It felt stronger in the cut. Rpm's didn't seem to drop much at all noodling 10" oak. I was happy with it. I will revisit taking out the base gasket in a few months but I was too frustrated to try again and I didn't want this saw to be down any longer. this has to have something to do with the air leak. Next time I will let it sit for at least a day before I pull the starter.
