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How to Replace the Tip on an ES Bar

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Ralphie Boy, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. Ralphie Boy

    Ralphie Boy

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    The tip on my 20" ES bar attached to my 461 locked up tight today while cutting som ash.

    First question: What's the process for replacing the tip, besides throwing money at it?

    Question 2: Could it be an oiling problem with the saw? I did the usual check before cutting. I dropped, limbed and bucked 2 trees, small trees in the 10 inch range. Didn't even use a tank of fuel. The chain and bar were suspiciously dry after the tip locked but the fuel and oil levels in the tanks were just about even.

    Thanks for your tips! Hope I can do something for you in return.
     
  2. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    That could have been a factor if it was ran hot. Could have just been a bad tip. Drill the rivets part way before you punch them out.
     
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  3. pantelis

    pantelis

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    The star in front of the bar work ?
    Yes dont change the tip and find in other places the problem
    No change the tip
    but take a look and to the saw if sent oil ( without bar cover and bar )
     
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  4. Ralphie Boy

    Ralphie Boy

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    I plan to take the 25" bar and chain off the 661 and try it on the 461 real quick to see if it's pumping oil. That's after I do a once over clean job to make sure everything is open for the oil to flow. I'll let her rip for about 10 seconds or so and see if she's slinging oil. If not, it's off to the shop.

    And yes the sprocket in the nose of the bar is locked tight.
     
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  5. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    Your 461 should oil a 20" bar with plenty to spare. I like the idea of running the 25" B&C to check oiling, but from your story, I bet it's fine. Replacing the tip is as easy as punching our some rivet and then putting new rivets in. Easy peasy.
     
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  6. pantelis

    pantelis

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  7. Ralphie Boy

    Ralphie Boy

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    Wow! If only my world worked that well! No drill press, no center punch, no relal work shop; looks like I'll have to take it to the shop. I'll bet the price of having it replaced will be so close to the price of a new 20" bar I'll probably wind up with a new bar and a skinnier wallet.
     
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  8. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Before you do anything, jam the sprocket into a piece of wood to see if you can free it up. Sometimes a splinter of wood or other debris gets lodged in there.
     
  9. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    Yep +1
     
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  10. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    Soak the tip in ATF would loosen up crud in it as well.
     
  11. jon1212

    jon1212

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    No need for a full blown shop. I've replaced bar tips working on the tailgate of my truck. Cordless drill, a little bar oil, small drilling hammer, and a small punch. Doing them in my garage is easier for sure, but not that much different.

    +2

    Good advice right there. Overnight soak in ATF, run the tip down a 2x4, then blow out with compressed air.
     
  12. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    Yep.
     
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  13. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    Yep you nailed it Jon.
     
  14. Ralphie Boy

    Ralphie Boy

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    Okay kids its fixed! Just full of chips. Did the 2x4 thing, scraped a bit with a dental pick, put some bar oil on it and it's off to the races.

    15 years of cutting and I've never had that happen! Lesson learned! Thanks for the tips!
     
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  15. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    You can check if a saw is oiling without the bar. If it is then the bar holes are plugged or grove filled with crap
     
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  16. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    See you solved this.
     
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