Stripped crankcase on my Honda 300trx

I think they were usually tapping steel frames on the show.... if that's what you mean...but I see what your saying about tapping steel and AL being different

 

I mentioned that on ThE first post. But would you still do that with a dril?

I don't think I would.

Picked up a set with the correct size drill. Found my set of taps and picked up a new plug. Got the ATV up on jack stands. Just have to find time.

 

There's almost no Aluminum on the occ choppers. All ferrous stuff on those things.

I think most of the speed tapping seen was just getting paint or of the threads, than actual tapping. Bungs with threads are usually pre drilled, then welded onto the frame.

I do recall the OCC guys using step bits a lot on sheet metal with a drill though.

 

Yea they used the stp bits too. And I was pretty sure most were cleaning paint as well but again with a drill. I'd worry I would cross thread it and trash it.

 

As a toolmaker in the aircraft industry we chased threaded holes regularly with a drill. If you do some googling you will find taps with a drill point for drilling and tapping thin materials in one shot. Would I tap a new hole with a drill no, but chasing them is normal. We also would use a drill press with a tap in it for some applications, a flat plate with a tapped hole square to the surface, but you need to get the set up just right. Drill press on slow, bring the tap down, let it grab, release the handle, allow tap to pull itself in, hit reverse and let it back out, well lubed of course.
Think about a CNC machine it is normal practice, drill the hole and tap it. Yes far more precise than a hand drill.

FYI, there are different classes of taps and dies for the application at hand. Most of what anyone would do is actually very sloppy compared to industry. There are go-nogo gauges for threading holes which are critical for strength.

 

And here is the patient on the operating table. Waiting on me to get a chance to work on it. Since we all like pics.

 

remember the cases are cast and even though they look "solid" there is going to be some porosity to them, go slow 2-3 half turns in then back out and clear the chips.
kerosene for lube on AL.

 

What about the grease idea to catch some chips?

Your more expert on this than me ...I have no bit of expertise here. I want to do the best thing here.

 

A dab might not hurt, but if you are backing it out to clear the chip it is moot. You are also working upside down so chips will fall out instead of in. Make sure you have a starter tap with a good lead so you go straight in, not a plug tap which will be hard to start. google pics.

 

also a drill bit, normally, pulls chips "up" to clear the hole, so again working upside down they should pull/fall out. A tap is neutral in that it curls them up inside the flute of the tap, that is why you back out, to break the chip from the parent material and allow it to clear out.

 

Mine looks like the "plug" tap on the top diagram. And it looks like the "intermediate" tap on That bottom left diagram???

I will pull the set out this afternoon and see if it says and take a pic of it.

 

that would be it, apparently different terminology's by different sites.

 

Ok, so I finially got around to this this weekend.

I taped it out to 1/2x20. The prior week I got an oil plug from advance auto parts. It had a fiber washer on it that looked about 1 size too big and against yalls advice and my judgement I put it on. I am now gun shy with this thing with being scared to tighten it down too far. But anyway it leaked. It leaked a good bit ...like 4 to 6 drops over night.

So I went back to advance and got a rubber washer. It is like a rubber washer with an original moulded into the outside of it. I drained the oil into an empty jug. Swapped The washers and now not a drop of oil over night and day!.

I made this into a bigger deal than it should. I haven't used a tap in a decade so I had worried myself about it. This went well and if need be I think it could actually be done again there is enough material. Anyway hopefully it will be good for another few decades.

Looking at the original plug someone cross threaded it. It was in there at an angle. I can see it looking at how the crush washer is bent diagnal to how it should be on ThE shafts of the bolt.


I used grease on the tap to catch the metal shavings. And I rinsed the crankcase out with diesel and the poured some clean oil out of an old oil bottle I had laying around. And let that drain before i filled with oil.

 

Ok, so I finially tapped it out. Things went well. I put grease on tap to catch shavings. I also poured some diesel through the motor and a half bottle of some old oil on the shelf I had before I put plu back in. I was so nervous now about tighten ING to tight. So it finger tightened it. Then snug with socket. Well it leaked. Like 6 drops over night. I assumed it was the fiber style gasket that to me looked about 1 size too big. I didn't listen to yall or my own better judgement and didn't replace that. So I got an empty oil jug and brained the oil into it and replaced the gasket with one I bight at advance auto. Figer tight then just snuggled up with socket and no more leaks

 

Quite a few typos there!! Not sure if it was the time of night...more likely that I was doing it while watching tv and barely paying attention to what I was doing.