Thanks. Looks like the hydro/trans fluids and filters were changed only 80hrs ago. Their going to replace the filter, but probably won't need new fluid. Next time...
Define Longevity? 1000 hrs, 10,000? Was there a problem with the original UDT causing premature failures? I'm all about running quality fluids which is why I buy the Kub brand rather than Traveller or some equivalent. After researching, again the cold weather operation was sighted. No mention of cavitation or finding brass in the fluid. You are a tech...Kubota?
I am a tech. I am Kubota certified and have been to their training schools. They push Super UDT 2 hard. Infact, they had a regular super udt and switched to the synthetic Super UDT 2 for even more protection . I'm not saying regular UDT won't work, but it has been superseded twice now for a reason. We keep UDT around for manual trans and front axles but that's it. If you have ever had to pay to split and tear a whole tractor to pieces and replace the hydro I think it would offer some better understanding as to why longevity matters. You DO NOT want to get stuck with that bill. I wouldn't sweat it too bad as you will probably be ok, just be careful not to lead others in that direction. Kubota hydrostatic systems work very well, but they are very easily damaged. I have rebuilt several of them. Sometimes things like the swash plate cradle bearings wear and the hydro never returns to neutral on its own again. I would definitely recommend Super UDT 2 be used in all Kubota hydrostats. Pay me now or pay me later.
I kindof figured. You obviously are very knowledgeable on the subject. I don't disagree that the newer oils may be better, but have a hard time swallowing UDT will cause premature failure. The UDT was spec'd for all of their transmissions at one time. Knowing Kubota's mantra of longevity I'm sure that it was and still is plenty good enough. Especially for weekend warriors like myself who put 100 hours a year on our tractors. Surely when an oil that had potential to increase longevity was formulated, they were quick to jump on it. The way you explain it kindof makes it sound like they made a mistake using the std UDT. It's a chicken/egg question. Did they build the transmissions, then look for a suitable oil, or did they spec a particular oil then build the transmissions to suit it? I don't like being held hostage so to speak when I need to service my tractor. The fact that UDT was fine for however many years but now, I need to use the new stuff at almost a $100 increase in cost per service leaves me sour. Of course you can understand this. At one time I used to repair pressure washer pumps. There are many specialized oils for those pumps that are quite expensive. All that really matters is that the oil is non-foaming. Straight 30wt with no detergent is absolutely acceptable in that application. No, not nearly as critical as an HST tranny, but along the same lines. We sold both straight 30wt and special pump oil both, but sold the more expensive stuff to customers 90% of the time. I'm not trying to undermine your training and experience, but don't want others who read this thread to think their HST is going to blow up because they didn't use the latest & greatest. I'm sure there are tons of guys who get by using traveller junk in their machines. That's not for me. I know they don't make it, but I want Kubota's name on my oil as it wouldn't be there if it wasn't quality stuff. Of the units you have rebuilt, what was the cause of failure? Also...You being a trained Kub tech...my front axle bevel gear seal is weeping. Anything to look out for when replacing the seal? I hate admitting that this is the first part failure on the machine but she is 14 years old now. I downloaded some schematics but wondering if there are any tricks or tough spots to watch out for?
I agree with JA600L and RCBS, my niece is also a diesel mech. and got training on Kubota when she worked at the dealership for 2 years while finishing her degree. My bota mx5000 is a standard transmission she put standard in front axle. and super in rear for everything else. She said to do it that way and I believed her.... mike bayerl I would recommend the Kubota insurance on your tractor you have to have it if financed but if you didn't I would get it. Here why. I got mine used for about 15 grand and with 300 hours and they financed at 0 or 1 percent. My brother came up when I was at work and was moving snow. Somehow he hit a stump or ice and knocked oil pan drain cap off! of course he was to scared to tell me. 2 weeks later I start tractor to a bang bang... Well it ran and with foot of snow in drive way I used it... called dealer they came got it blown engine cylinder #3.. called insurance with not a lot of high hope but they said yup stupid is covered. new 50 HP diesel motor clutch and transport cost me 350 dollars for depreciation instead of 15 thousand. I think it costs me about 400 a year. I will pay it forever! believe it's called KTAC insurance..
Yeah he still uses it..... he also splits the insurance cost every year with me. He's a good brother he comes up to be in country ride sleds wheelers etc etc we cut and split together... he has always been hard on equipment but hey he works for landscapers it's all about speed not so much fixing or maintaining tools..
From an oil tank? Wow. I know they like to live in small gasoline motor's flywheels and burn chambers of torpedo heaters. Never would've thought they'd turn up in a chainsaw!
The oil must suit what's happening inside the trans. I know nothing about Deere's modern IVTs so I can't say why Low-Visc is a no-no. Reg Hyguard is ok?
It doesn't get cold enough down here to worry about low-visc anyway. From the manual: IMPORTANT: On tractors with IVT: Do NOT use low viscosity HY-GARD. Do NOT use BIO-HY-GARD. Other types of oil used must meet John Deere Standard JDM J20C.
Probably a pressure/bearing load thing then because to my knowledge the only significant difference between the two fluids is viscosity.
