Picked this up from a fellow member over on another site. Has the big bore kit. First impressions is this thing is really quiet, which is never a good thing. If I decide to keep it around, it will definitely be undergoing dremel surgery.
Which is usually better than a 660... Should be a solid runner for ya... But with the tight crank case on those, I have no idea if a bigger bore will be an improvement or not... Let us know what you think..
Man that is quite the saw! Never run one of those bad boys before but I'm guessing it screams with that much displacement.
Certified, your saw will run with a stock 660 all the way up to a 28" bar. Until you get into the big wood, if you had a 36" buried, then the bigger saws begin to shine. HittinSteel, skip the dremel treatment and go directly to dual-port, do not pass go, do not collect $200. Depending on what top-end is on that saw, it'll be a beast or a turd. All of them can be "fixed". . What does it weigh compared to the 2100?
I just bought one of those too For $250 from another site?? (Same one?? ) I think I already have mine gone though. I want one, but I will be buying all new parts, to make a minty model. Congrats bro. If you still have it by the GTG (um, CAD doesn't let me keep saws for to long unless I WANT them) I would love to run it. But if have a feeling with a 2100 in your arsenal? It may not stay long That's some good trading power for sure!!
I have a 660 big bore. It runs fine but it's heavy and really doesn't cut any better or faster than my 460. I should have bought another 460 instead. I was thinking the 660 would pull the chain with more power and wouldn't have ANY of the "bogging". I run 18" bars on both of the saws. Couldn't even imagine a 28" bar on a 460. Maybe in softwood?
Heck I run a 460 with a 28" in hard woods and 660 with a 32-36". A 660 for an 18" bar would need a 9 pin sprocket to really gain speed over a 460.
It has the NWP top end, which I don't think is very desirable. If I keep it, the dual port and having someone do a little "fixing" is a great idea. It's lighter and feels considerably less bulky than the 2100, but when the 100cc saws come out, mobility isn't a big concern.
Welcome to the Forums Nate. Yeah, the 660 shines when you get into the Big Bar region. If your running anything 24" and under on the 460 or 660, I'd be running at least an 8 pin rim sprocket to increase chain speed. As mentioned above, a 9 on the 660 would make a lot of sense if you wanted to make it cut faster. Welcome to FHC bud. Glad to see you again.
Hey hey hey, look who it is! Welcome to FHC Nate! Got any pictures of your "splitter"? 28" works on a 460. It wouldn't be my first pick for production firewood cutting but as a felling saw or for the average hoarder needing to tackle big wood, it's plenty fast. Gear up that 660, they turn the same RPMs a 460 does and unless the tree/bar is huge, there isn't enough of a load to take advantage of the extra torque the 660 has. Maybe set the rakers for a bigger bite too.
I got some bars coming now that's shorter than a 28" in stihl mount. I do have a 20" to use on the 357 and one for large mount husky.
I had a blast with my 460s running 20" bars with 8 pin sprockets. Set the rakers for .030 (or thereabouts) and hold on. Yeehaw....
Last February when ripping some of that big White Pine from local tree service the rakers were lowered a bit more than I usually do.Don't remember what it was now but was probably close to .035.Fast forward to mid April when I forgot & used same saw/chain on more of that 24"+ Honey Locust.......... Talk about a teeth rattler!