Receiver Hitch Rust

I did get the draw bar with the ball on it out with sledge hammer, what can I spray inside the receiver to help remove the rust with the help of a wire brush, does PB Blaster make a product that would help?

Once I get the rust off should I just put grease on the draw bar?

 

PB dissolves rust, wd keeps it away.

 

thewoodlands, I have had better luck with never sieze.. a grey paste I put on lug nuts etc.. Available at any auto parts store. once you remove old rust .. put that on and it works..

 

I use heavy axle grease on mine.

 

Once you get it cleaned up with the wire brush you can use fluid film with good results. It turns kinda waxy and is a little less messy than anti seize or grease in that it doesn't get all over everything, as much, when removed.


Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor


Local Dealer Results

Leberge & Curtis Inc
5984 County Route 27
Canton, NY 13617 USA

 

I am up against the same thing.
the forestry truck I bought had a hitch in the receiver that was not removed (for years, I'm thinking).
i have been hitting the side of the receiver every so often with a hammer (4lb) and spraying penetrant as well as I can into and alongside the receiver/hitch. Pretty soon. I'll try crawling underneath and pounding it out-I hope.

 

is the hitch pin out? if so try a chain tied to tree or something else really heavy.

 

Hitch pin is still in at this point.

 

I sprayed mine with PB Blaster for items that are rusted, a big sledge had it out after about 20 good taps.

 

I don't think our hitch had been out of the receiver in 5 years, never again.

I think New York State has a law that requires you to take it out when your not hauling a trailer.

After a quick search, I might be wrong about that law but it will come out when not in use.

 

Mine's pretty well rusted in there too.
I've tried the PB treatment with some pretty hefty "taps" with the 4 lb sledge.......w/o gooder results.
If I ever get it out of there, I'll be a happy camper.

 

1. Penetrating oil
2. Large hammer
3. Torch
4. Log chain/tree
Oil the heck out of it for a few days...give it a tap (or more) once in a while
If that doesn't do it then give 'er the ole heat n beat routine.
Wrap a log chain around the ball and the other end of the chain around something solid like a large tree...pull forward taking the slack out of the chain, then back up a foot or so, drop in drive, release brakes...rinse, repeat. Don't get too carried away, don't wanna pop the airbags! (Don't forget to remove the pin first )

 

I just used a come along for tension. Then heat and a few good hits with a sledge.

 

Could always use fuelrod s winch.

 

Receiver tubes can vary, period. The hitch inserts vary also, so you have to watch what you intend to use.
An insert with a .188 wall has a different corner profile than one with a .250 wall.
A receiver with a 2.530 OD x .250 wall has a different ID than a 2.500 od x .188 or .250 wall.
And then there's regular 2-1/2 x .250 square tube. Nothing 2 x 2 fits 'cause of the weld seam, which is broached with true receiver tube.
Just depends on what you've got, manufactures tolerances vary.
I have receiver tube -2.500 x 2.500 OD x .188 wall (sloppy), and 2.530 x 2.530 x .250 wall (tight). For everyday use, I like the sloppy.

 

Best way to loosen them is with a string of cuss words after you bang your shins on them!

Gary

 

If possible, use a wire cup on a grinder and remove all the rust scale. Wire brush the inside of the receiver as much as you can.
Hose it out with brake cleaner, get it as clean as possible.
Shoot some "Hammerite" spray paint in the receiver and let it fully dry. Do the same for the receiver insert. It will be tighter.
Slather both with a good furniture wax, like "Trewax" and let them set. Work them back-n-forth a few times, adding wax where you should, and you're good to go for a while.
-or- if you don't mind the mess, cram it full of axle grease and call it good. Keeping out the moisture is the main thing.

 

1. Penetrating lube
2. Tap it with a hammer a couple times a day with more lube
3. Chain it to a tree, get as much tension on it as you can, throw your vehicle in park
4. Tap the receiver tube with a maul or hammer, jerking your vehicle around and shock loading your chain is extremely hard on it, your vehicle and mostly is dangerous
Having tension on while tapping on it means your chain should not break, and you'll be able to see if there's any progress with every tap.
It may be painfully necessary to tap it back in to loosen it up rather than rolling and wedging rust, gravel, whatever is in there.