In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

First Fire In New Stove Guidelines Please

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Kimberly, Feb 10, 2016.

  1. Star Gazer

    Star Gazer

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    I should also add that my outside temperatures are often cooler than Eric VW though he lives 100 or so miles north of me. My outside temperature when I lit the fire was 30 degrees, and at the time I wrote my last post the temperature was at 38 degrees.
     
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  2. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    This year, maybe.... Last year? I think we all got nailed equally hard.....
    :)
     
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  3. saskwoodburner

    saskwoodburner

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    I'll wade in here again (I love draft discussion!) with my thoughts. For those who haven't yet read my ramblings, I have a short over all chimney height, so I understand how they work. I'm not in the "15 foot or no worky" camp.

    I'd like to counter brenndatomu 's point of a short stack being like an underpowered V8. I would say it's more like a case of a same motor with a different torque/horsepower curve and gearing or different camshaft, being more peaky higher up, yet sluggish off the line. A short stack makes it harder to get going, but once it's up there, I would dare say you couldn't tell the difference.

    Another thing I would say (food for thought) is that a short stack that's up to temp is actually easier to create a harder pulling draft quickly, even though it has a lesser air column than a taller stack. On a reload, if I want to blow a bit extra hot air up the chimney to draft better, I have less stack to heat up.
     
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  4. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    Computer controlled fuel injection based systems that can precisely control fuel/air ration will blow the doors off of carburettor systems; it is why performance of small engines have gain through the years.
     
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  5. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    The taller the stack, the more the exhaust gases will cool even on an insulated chimney.
     
  6. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    It arrived! :ups::banana:

    stove_top_thermometer.jpg

    coupled with my gift from Machria

    [​IMG]

    I can now properly monitor my stove and chimney. Thanks everyone!
     
  7. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    And now back to our regularly scheduled heating season and warm home....:yes:
    Here's to your success, Kimberly :)
     
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  8. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    Awesome! Ive got that first one pictured and am happy with it! Congrats!
     
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  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    I wouldn't argue with you...this is actually much like my example...both can be made to work...it's just easier with the "proper" setup. But I will say this, I have a straight up ~18' chimney on my stove...it works VERY well...cold start at 60* outside...no problem, and almost never any smoke spillage. On the other hand, my other chimney has two 90s and is much more apt to spill smoke and the draft tends to "die off" after the hot part of the burn...even though it is taller than the first chimney (both are lined and insulated)
    All this to say yes, Kimberly's chimney is more or less working (obviously) as is, but I think there will be a noticeable improvement in its "manners" once it is brought up in height.
     
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  10. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Where exactly is your pipe thermometer placed on your pipe?
     
  11. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    It is located on the horizontal section, in the middle of the run.
     
  12. saskwoodburner

    saskwoodburner

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    If your stove has good draft at 60 F, I'd hate to see how it goes at -40.:eek: That's the thing, the point where my stove has adequate no problem draft, is around -8 or -10 C (12-14 f). That doesn't mean it's hard to have a fire when it's warmer, it's just slower to get going. If I had good draft at 60 F, my stove would melt down when it got down into winter cold temps.

    Also remember that 10 feet of chimney here is worth more than 10 feet of chimney down there.
     
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  13. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02

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    Wrong, wrong wrong wrong. EFI is more efficient and less polluting. Properly adjusted carbs are more than capable of competing with EFI in performance. This is why drag racers still use carbs very heavily.
     
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  14. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Now that didn't take too long!
    First thing I thought of was why did drag racers still use carbs if FI was so superior???:cool:
     
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  15. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    Because they don't care?
     
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  16. Gary_602z

    Gary_602z

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    On your thermometers I would check them out side by side on the stove top and the stove pipe to verify their accuracy against each other.

    Gary
     
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  17. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Yeah! That's it! They don't care!
    :rofl: :lol::rofl: :lol::rofl: :lol:
     
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  18. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    Which is wright if there different?
     
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  19. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    The top of the line doesn't use carbs because injection is superior.
     
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  20. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    We are also duped into thinking its all about efi in today's engines. It's definitely an improvement on some fronts, but a lot of performance and mileage per gallon gains are due to the fact that today's cars are so much lighter than older ones. No frames and lots of plastic makes a lighter car. The other downside to efi is the complexity of the system, plus all the damm sensors and extra crap connected to that thing.

    You gotta love the throttle response and the tunability of a car or truck with efi.. you can change modes with a cell phone these days. But carbs are dead nuts simple and could prob not knock 3 to 5 thousand dollars off the price of a car if used instead of efi
     
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