Ideal Steel Season #2 Tips, Tricks, and Improvements.

The new tech hybrids are certainly different from the old tech Fireview. I actually like the top down technique because it smokes much less and takes longer to bring the box up to temp - which is one of my goals. I did notice that WS uses top down in their test of the AS.
Woodstock Soapstone Co. Blog: Cordwood Cold Start Test Data

 

I think I'm figuring out how the outside of my stove is getting build-up. I just noticed a gap in the Door gasket.

 

Wow! Couple of questions:

1. How does the tension adjustment work for the IS door?
2. What are the spots on the steel?

 

Good catch, Brad.

 

#1 tip from my experience - get the cat temp probe! I found a whole new low end for my stove and saved a whole bunch of trips out into the yard to look at the stack. The IS is my first cat stove so it's been a learning experience to figure out how low and slow it can burn cleanly. So far I've been quite impressed.

 

Welcome to the club...Nice info...Pics would be awesome...Enjoy...There is a lot of nice people here...

 

Hey co burner , welcome aboard!

 

I e-mailed WS, and they informed me the door latch on the body of the stove is adjustable, so I got out my 1/2" socket and loosened it. I was not successful in determining how the latch is adjustable. To me, it was either bolted tight or loose. So I just tightened it back. One thing I noticed- if that latch were closer to the stove where the door handle goes into the "latch groove" my door would be tighter. Can someone do me a favor? Next time you load and get a good fire going before engaging the cat, can someone inspect their door gasket all-around and see if you see the light of the fire? (Any gaps)

 

I'm assuming the spots are where the smoke escaped? I'll tell you, it's like concrete...

 

The latch adjustment won't do a whole lot for a leak on the hinge side. I'd guess it needs a new gasket (quite easy and pretty inexpensive to do). In the short term, you might try "fluffing" the gasket. I say that in quotes because the gasket might be glazed/brittle, and if you need the heat you don't want to make things worse. I've used a pair of channel locks to gently squeeze a gasket from both sides it give it another few days of life until it is convenient for me to replace it.

 

I've gotten a little extra mileage from worn out gaskets by fluffing them with a round wire cleaner, kind of like something to clean a gun barrel with. Just lay it on the low spot and gently twist.

 

Brad I can see gasket but no light or fire..

 

moreover where my door rests against frame when closed. I have a consistent 1/8 of inch gap that all you can see is gasket material around stove.. no light penetrates. I wonder if your door is warped?

 

Thanks. This stove was new in Oct, so I don't see the gasket being worn out. WS did offer to send me gasket/glue though. I will say the gasket is not soft anymore, but thought that to be normal. Maybe the door warped like C.B. Said? Stove never overfired. Nothing else I can see on the stove is warped. How would I test? Maybe lay the door on a known flat surface? (If it is warped, it's not by much.)

 

Or hold a straight edge up to the door in that area and also check the face of the stove.

I took another look at your pic...Is it me or is the gasket twisted in that area, which would cause it to be "thinner" and not seal?

 

Several ways to tell if the door is sealing or not:

Look for any dark places on the white gasket rope. This will really only work if you are burning very low though, and the dark areas are where the gasket is not touching the door.

The door should give a fair amount of resistance to being closed the last 1/4" to 1/8" or so. If the door will close all the way with little to no pressure, then the gasket is not 'bearing' against the stove.

Finally, the 'dollar bill' test: put a dollar bill (or any narrow strip of paper) between the stove body and door, close the door and see if there is resistance to removing the paper. Check all the way around the periphery of the door to find any loose spots.

Probably the gasket should be changed every year as normal maintenance but most of us, myself included, do not bother. I find just re- rounding the gasket a bit gives it enough of a seal to work well for several weeks at a time. Of course as the gasket gets older, it goes back to the flatter shape that leaks faster and faster.

Brian

 

Yeah, all good points, but he already knows there's a gap. Could be the gasket was stretched at installation.
Maybe you missed this...........

 

Yep, missed this..... I guess there really is not any substitute for paying attention.....

Hanging my head in shame....

Brian

 

I've got an improvement they can make. Either set back the bar the andirons are attached to or make the bar a little thinner. Quite annoying to tip them forward and have the ash dump right out onto the ash lip. My hearth is clean otherwise.

 

I would try a level if you have one of correct length. Any high or low point should be noticeable against the levels straight edge. I had a bad cast door with my Fireview and did not notice it for quite a while; only after taking it off and looking at it at eye level did I spot the problem.